1974 914-6 Conversion 3.0 but engine still not installed due to extenuating circumstances. So trying to do some info gathering in the mean time. Porsche P/N real metal GT flare car and very set up. A lot of work was already completed when I got the car but I know it has the original front torsion bars.

Here is what I have:

Front - Sway bar attachment points were welded to the arms then the arms, mount, steering rack and cross tube were rebuilt with new poly graphite bushings, bearing, seals. 911 SC struts, Koni adjustable shocks, turbo tie rods, new ball joints. 911 SC Brakes Padgid RS-4 pads, with stainless steel braided brake lines. Front sway bars are 22mm.

Rear - Arms were strengthened with Automotion kit. New poly-graphite bushings and bearings. Rear brakes are 914 with braided lines, 911 cross-drilled rotors with machined and hardened 914-6 half shaft adapters. Weltmeister 22mm rear sway bar.

Engine - Not currently installed as mentioned. 1979 3.0 with 39mm port heads, Carrera tensioners, Turbo valve covers. Jerry Woods distributor rebuild/ re-curve, MSD 6-AL Ignition and coil. Dual Weber 40 IDA 3C carbs. 914-6 engine oil cooler, Patrick Motorsports 914-6 oil tank, Mazda RX-7 front oil cooler, Mocal external thermostat. Rich Johnson engine conversion mount. Perry Kiehl 914-6 conversion wiring harness, MSDS 1 5/8 inch headers.

Had a thread going but shelved that when I had to stop working on the car "Finishing A 914-6 GT Conversion Project" but have not updated it in a while. Hoping to get back into the car in May and get it running. In the mean time I understand the stock torsion bar may not be good for the set up I have. Everyone loves a picture so her is one just before I stopped. ThanksClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

Hey man i think you sold me your front bumper back in the day

I saw the car up close and it is a monster

Good luck finishing it up ,

Im too intimated to work on 914 s in stock form

Let alone 914 -6 space ship s


Cheers

You don't tell us what you intend to use the car for most? Track? Hard Street? Autocross? Sunday afternoon picnics?
Also you don't say what you have for rear springs or your tire sizes.
You need to maintain a balance front to rear.

I am not a fan of rear sway bars unless you have a limited slip diff and I doubt I would use a 22mm rear bar even with a limited slip.

I have always preferred to control body roll with higher spring rates rather than but sway bars.
The set up you currently describe only needs bigger T-bars if you have gone up in rear spring rates. if you are up around 200 lb rear springs I would probably consider 21 mm T-bars.

On my old autocross car 71 w/ 1.7 I ran:
22mm front T-bars
19mm front sway bar
Cut down 160lbs progress rear springs (measures about 170 lbs per inch)
Poly bushings all around.

No rear sway bar.

Jim

Good points! and Thanks!
Hard street/ maybe some AutoX. Hate to say it but not sure on rear springs but I am now going to figure that out! Fuchs 7's and 8's with Bridgestones 205/55/16 front and 225/50/16 back. Rear 22mm bar rear came on the car and the previous previous owner had a serious, make that very serious, built 4. As he tells it the car was hot. Appreciate the info.
Jim

I'm going with 21mm hollow torsion bars for my street weapon, sometimes autocross or track....something very similar to your car.

I had them on my 73 RS clone as well.
Good stiffness without being overly stiff....like 23mm will get ya.

Should work great with your car.

I don't think the original factory bars are available, so the 21mm Swayaway bars might be a reasonable alternative. Unless you're going to be tracking the car, those torsion bars with stiffer rear springs should work nicely. I'd also hold off on a rear sway bar and get an adjustable front sway bar.