How deep should it be installed? Flush with the outer flange or flush with the inner flanfe??

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In order to seal properly, (and I just did mine a week or two ago - and it doesn't leak... for now...) I used a smooth pipe long enough to straddle the shaft and tapped it "home" to mate the seal with the inner case area. If memory serves me, it went in another eighth inch from where your picture shows it to be. Someone else may have a different experience.

The primary goal is to just get the seal deep enough so that it doesn't interfere with the tube when mounted back onto the case. The way you check that: if the seal's opening starts to distort at any point while you're installing that tube, the seal needs to go deeper. If it does not distort, and the tube mounts cleanly then, in the words of Dr. Evil "you're golden, be happy."

Stock seals had a shoulder that sat on the lip of the opening, but most replacements do not, I believe.

Had this tool from VW days perfect for installing the new one,got the old one out by drilling a hole and threading a screw it the hole to pull it out.
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Old seal fell to pieces when removed,just saved the clutch disk before the oil really got into it.

Are those seals available that have the shoulder?

Not that I am aware. 914sixer (Mark) had found a stash of NOS and generously offered those last year pretty reasonably, but I think he's all sold out. Maybe there's another source out there somewhere. You can search. P/N 113-311-113-B.

I can add a picture of what the seal looks like. I might have one. Mark at 914Rubber has one. He had planned to make them a some point.

Here's a couple of pics of the type Mark got ahold of last year. The nice new one on the left has a lip - compare to the nasty old one on the right which does not. Mine is about to serve its purpose in life as I'm putting a tranny back together over the next couple of days.

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Another. You can almost SEE how excited this seal is as it eagerly awaits installation.

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Well I got a pretty obvious signal from the gearbox that I didnt put the seal in deep enough for the conical inner lip to mate to the input shaft, blue drips on the garagefloor.

So I pulled the gearbox out and will try again tomorrow. Luckily I ordered a few extra seals since they were quite cheap.



Left one is an Elring Klinger that I got from a Swedish Porsche parts dealer. The right one is a Kaco brand that I got from the closest Porsche dealership. The last one I put in was the Kaco brand. Now I'm thinking of using the Elring instead.



Elring left, Kaco right.



Elring is the smooth one and Kaco is the ribbed one.

The only other difference that wont show in pictures is that if I pinch the inner lip of the Kaco brand its much stiffer than the Elring which is more pliable.

So tomorrow I'll pop one in and drive it in deeper than last time when it just cleared the guide tube.

Any other advice? Lube or dry outside?

I would always smear of lube to prevent tearing of the dry rubber against the tranny metal. getting it in even and square is the challenge, I am thinking a properly sized socket....

I made a tool that will work, lasercut a washer that just fits the seal from a 5 mm plate at work and then welded that to a suitable sized steel pipe. I dont have a picture of it available but I'll take one tomorrow....

Always lubricate a shaft seal. Use the same oil as you are sealing out. Inside and out. I have seen where grease is used. This works for awhile but later prevents oil from lubricating the lip at the point of contact. The result is a worn groove on the shaft and a leak. Lubricate the shaft before inserting also.

You must clean and smooth the inside of the case. I use emory cloth to insure there are no nicks or imperfections in the seating surface.

Car is back together and testdriven around 20 km. Will see if it leaks again if so Im turning it over to a pro.