Continuing on my rebuild.

I mic'd out all my current jugs, and come up with the following:

#1 -3.615
#2 - 3.616
#3 - 3.616 (rust pitted, might have to replace)
#4 - 3.617

I have some cylinders headed my way that mic out at 3.570. Which means if I replace #3, I need to make up 0.047". I am finding spacers only in 0.010 increments. so if I replace my pitted cylinder with one of these, I can shim to 3.610 or 3.620. If I pair it with No 4, the difference is between 3.620 - 3.617 is .003".

Is that going to be close enough? Or can I get thinner shims that will get me closer?

Oh, One more thing. Where can I get single shims? I do not need to buy a set of 4

That sounds like a big difference to make up.

I went to my local mechanic and he gave me a couple of the many hanging on the wall.

As far as thicker ones. Looks like sets of 4.

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?sea...him&Submit=

Thanks for the link, I did not know of this vendor.

.047. I still would like to know how far apart in height any two cylinders can be before running into head sealing issues.

I'm in Canada so I use the Canadian site for some of the crossover VW parts.

Stock shims are .008, so a .030 and 2-.008 would work. I was told on one of my questions that stacking 3 is the limit.

Good point. Heard that three was the limit also. I figured .001 difference in a give pair would not be an issue. Just wondered how far I can push it before I have sealing trouble.

why wouldn't you take the cylinders to a machine shop an have them match machined

Or...buy a new set of pistons and cylinders. less than 300 bucks. A machinist will probably cost you 50/jug. And unless you have someone you trust who also knows our engines, machining is a bit of a crap shoot.

Between the cost of the machining and/or shims, in addition to the wild card of using used, formerly rusted parts, new is the cheapest money you'll ever spend. Just my .02!

If your case is warped the same way as the overwhelming majority of T4 case's I've decked over the years your #3 case spigot is lower than #4. Put your tall jug on #3 and the next closest one on #4 and check for levelness.

A straight edge is useless unless one jug is way off. To detect an uneven condition over two jugs you need a blanchard ground plate or a piece of glass to lay on top and look for gaps. This needs to be done without pistons on a clean dry case.

I never decked a T4 case that didn't have uneven spigots, and I've decked an a$$ load of them. This is one of the major reasons the multi-layer head gaskets failed. The other is the heads, which warp one direction while the case warps another. Creates uneven clamping.

If the heads aren't flycut dead nuts and the case is warped and the jugs are different length... could be trouble. A head leak is likely. Maybe right away, maybe not. But at some point it's likely.

Call these guys in the morning.
They have what you need.
http://www.europeanmotorworks.com/vw/type-...kets-seals.html