I'm looking to build my own AN lines for oil tank for my -6 conversion, but I can't find any information on how long the lines have to be. Does anyone have the measurements for length on the lines needed? Please let me know. Thanks!

-Chris

I just cut mine to the correct length as I built up the system. Since the lines are custom, might want to add a "T" to make oil changes easier.

I'd say they vary from car to car unless you are own a stock 914-6. You can use cheap garden hose to mimic how long they will be.

I always make them a little longer, "I cut it three times, and it's still too short."

Not as easy as it might seem.

Too long and they will hang lower than you will like.

Too short and well, if it fits will be susceptible to vibrations and probably excessive wear from rubbing on the chassis or something.

Len Cummings of Autosport Engineering in Stowe MA made mine. He visited my home a couple of times to take proper measurements and has the crimping tools to make a proper hose. He made mine custom from the metric side on the tank, to the AN fitting on the Patrick cross over tube. It is perfect and his price is reasonable. Pm me if you want to make contact. He is a regular on Pelican as he makes custom hoses and fuel lines for the early 911 crowd.

For the line coming out of the side of the engine case, you can get a metric to AN adapter, screw it right into the case. It's been several years since I've got those adapters, but I think it was BAT or Pegasus. BAT is the source for Mocal oil coolers.

Then use a 90* fitting and route the line to the rear and around the side of the engine. This way you don't get as close to the exhaust and can avoid using or mod'ing some sort of factory oil pipe.

Are you going to have a front oil cooler? Obviously that would change the hose layout significantly. The AN hose is not that hard to work with, you just need to have a sharp hacksaw blade (if you're using the braided hose) and patience to assemble the hose ends.

I use a thin cut off wheel. Wiz wheel? Takes 5 seconds to cut ss braided line.

If you want tho do a super nice job with swagged ends instead of the press in jobs I'd suggest doing the car with regular rubber hose (Parker pushloc). Then once you're 100% happy remove the hose and take it to a place that does custom hose.

That way you can get your first season in and you could also get superior SS PTFE braided hoses made up.
The PTFE hose is better than the SS rubber hoses in the long term.
Likely you can then sell the rubber hose set-up to someone else looking to do the exact same deal.

Stainless braid/rubber hose looks cool and all blingy, but that stuff can saw through all kinds of things if it flexes against something it shouldn't.

The other thing I've seen is a section that had internally collapsed (it looked like a camera shutter) and completely closed off. You couldn't tell from the outside that there was a problem, only removal of the hose and fishing a cable through the hose revealed the problem. It was fine until it heat cycled a few times, then the engine totally lost oil pressure.

Fortunately the owner believed the oil pressure gauge and didn't run the engine until the problem was discovered.

Hi Chris, I've attached the photo's, first is the long return line, second is the oil tank to the oil cooler/engine.....These were purchased from Rich Johnson, a great product and support. Best, MarkClick to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

RJ makes great parts for our cars!
I didn't have a choice about the ss lines. Bob Russo helped me and he's a race car mechanic. When I asked about alternatives he just said NO and ordered up the line and the fittings. Came out to $500 for 30 feet and all the fittings. That includes running it up To the front cooler and some extra in case I cut a line too short.
I do see a big advantage to the ss line is you can get fittings everywhere. Speed shops, online, etc.