Ok guys,
after reading here how bad it was to remove the tar using the heatgun and scraper, i went looking for other methods - tried the dry ice/ alcohol method - didn't work at all,
ended up trying with a hammer and chisel - not much progress at all.

So I convinced myself that anything under that tar was sound metal - no need to worry.

But when it came time to primer it up and paint it, I couldn't do it, I had to get that Tar off.

So pulled out the Harbor freight heatgun - mislabelled BTW - says 1000 deg C, 640 degrees F.

anyway - it was like butter - in less than 15 minutes I have completely cleared out all the tar on the passenger side - just heat and scrape.

either my idea of hard tedious work is fundamentally different from others here, or you guys been blowin smoke - trying to scare me and initiate me!

BTW my supposition was correct, at least on my car, under that tar is clean pristine metal

Dang! I am literally days away from scraping tar off the floor of another vehicle ('71 Datsun 240Z) and was going to try the dry ice / alcohol thing. Really didn't work at all? It was hard work getting the tar up from my 914, even with the HF heat gun blasting.

The tar on my floors was the only thing holding the rust together...

It is easy to remove. I use a Mapp or Propane torch and warm a small spot at a time. It doesn't take a lot of heat. The problem is you cannot tell if water has seeped in until it is removed. Usually there are pristine and bad spots. Sometimes really bad spots. You just cannot tell until it is removed

I've never tried the dried ice method.....


because I've always used a heat gun and it's easy.

You must have been reading the wrong threads then.

Heatgun and scraper is by far the easiest way if you do it right.

You just want to get the tar warm and pliable so you can take it off in large chunks.
If you get it too hot, it'll melt and stick and get gooey.

I used a combo of Ice & heat. Ice for the big areas and heat to get in the tight spots. Secret to the ice is to get big slabs of it and leave it on for at least 5 minutes

So that only leaves the question of why you're wearing skirts???

I did the Harbor Freight vibratory scraper. Works fine but time consuming. Followed that with full chassis soda blast to get to totally virgin metal.

Depends on outside temp.

On one I put the portable heater under to warn up the floor pan and used a heat gun on the working area, easy enough to scrap off.
The other I rolled out into the summer sun and let it bake at 110F
Half of it pealed off without effort as it separated from the metal/rust.
You want it hot enough for the adhesive to melt but not so hot the tar melts.

Utilikilt Baby, and rocking it Commando - unfortunately that leaves the obvious opportunity for smoke infiltration/ingestion!

I agree, use the ice and heat for the inflammation. If the swelling persists for more than four hours, discontinue the use of the blue pill, an consult a doctor....

I did mine a couple of weeks ago with a heat gun and scraper. 1.5 hours to complete and clear up. For a job I really wasn't looking forward too it turned out simple!

Did the dry ice to remove large sections, heat gun to get the rest off.

I'd say the dry ice did about 75% of the job or more.

Mine came off fast with heat gun and scraper. Really once I heated a section and got the scraper under it, it came off it large sections. I wonder if they changed the application process or the type of insulation at some point...

Easy with a heat gun.

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Never done it on 914, but used dry ice on my 2002 and it worked great. Put the dry ice on top of the tar with a blanket over it for 20mins, remove blanket, whack with big ass rubber mallet. If it doesn't crack, whack it even harder. All that was left was once I was done was clean paint underneath.

Here's a vid on the dry ice method.

Looks pretty slick to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FqkxgcjRQQ

I've done quite a few the heat gun way and it's easy no problems....pops right up

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We are starting to beat a dead horse a little bit now, but I have to say, the right technique with a heat gun and a putty knife makes such quick work of it there's no way I'd bother with buying dry ice and alcohol and futzing with it. By the time I made a store run for the ice I could have had a bunch of it already out.

The adhesive doesn't cover the whole surface, it's applied in thin lines running side to side a couple inches apart. Once you find an adhesive line (you'll feel it once it starts coming up), concentrate the heat on those lines because heating the tar in between is useless. A small torch works great this way too because it's easy to focus the heat. Once the glue reaches temp you can push a putty knife through it really fast and peel up large pieces.

Did mine in the winter, colder the better chips right off.

The question for me is, once it's removed....do we put something like dynamat (insert your material of choice here) or paint it and leave it metal?

On a couple cars I've applied epoxy or DTM 2K primer followed by Fatmat (similar to Dynamat).

heat gun and paint scrapper, easy peasy, i swear.

On top of FAt Mat, I installed EZ-cool. Or if you apply EZ-Cool to Fat Mat, it would make a removable mat.

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