Let me preface this by saying Ive done many rust repairs on these cars, so this isnt my first rodeo, but never one that needed as extensive work as this...all at once

I feel this level repair is only justified for the most significant cars: /6's, Limited's or cars with personal sentimental value that transcends fiscal sense.
I understand the desire to save all 914's but some are just beyond reasonable resurrection.

I probably would have walked away from taking on this job were I able to see the true extent of the damage.
It was to be a floor pan repair/replace, but upon digging into the damage & VERY poor scab repair the PO did to the hell hole area, I found the the ENTIRE inner pass. long was toast. From foot well to rear trunk.
Unfortunately determining that, I also uncovered how bad the inner wheelhouse was...too late

Now Im stuck. The car is on a rotisserie but even though it is braced, the removal of so much structural steel leaves me with little to nothing to support it.
Knowing what I know now Id have tackled the inner wheel house before I removed the inner long

Anyone BTDT and have a creative solution?
Ive tested it and the weight of the bare chassis alone is too much for outer long to support.
At this point my plan is to put back in a complete OE long I scabbed, Welding from the Front as far back as I can then secure the the far end leaving the wheel house area free.


Any advice/suggestions?

Scotty B used to comment that his scissors lift was better to support a car that needed long repair vs using a rotisserie. If you don't have one, maybe make a bench that supports the shell at the suspension points and points on the long.
Also, read Jeff Hail's thread on his rustoration.

You could fab up a simple "chassis table" and get it on that for the repairs. Jeff Hail's thread shows a tidy example.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791

Great minds... "Jeff Hail's thread..."

Visuals might help (crappy phone camera)

I'm in the same place as you. I have a pretty good plan on how to fix mine which by the looks of things is about as bad as your car.
Where did you get your replacement long? I've been searching for one of those for at least 3 years now.

Sometimes being a hoarder pays off

call Eurotech Bodywerkes,, they have something to help you

IMO you'll need a little more than just Jeff Hail's frame rack. You can lock down the left side with Jeff's rack. But the right side will be all air when you cut out the long. You'll need supports in both front and back shock towers. Do some digging into Rick 918-S's work. Before he got another Celette bench he used stands under the tires to hold the car up.

Keep going, everyone of us who gives up gives others a reason to.

No concerns on quitting.. Ive given myself a reality TV show time frame goal of 30 days to complete the project !!
Cary you hit the nail on head. You cant see in my crappy phone pics but the Susp. Console is all Rot. Id like to tackle the Inner wheel house BEFORE I put the inner long back in, but as soon as I cut that out, even braced, the way the car is "hanging" in the Rotiss., the car would fold.
I have a rolling cart I could mod but its got the next car in queue already on it!

Sorry to say it has to come off the rotisserie. I moved mine to the 2 post lift with a fixture holding the car in 4 corners. The 2 suspension ears and the 2 front suspension mounts. Then 4 six foot screw jacks out at the bumper mounts to keep the car level. But I did mine with the RD/AA long and wheel house, which are separate pieces. At the end of the day this is a huge PIA and I bought a frame bench and I'm building fixtures for next time. Cary and Super In Law made non pulling Celette type bench.

Remember, no welding until both doors are back on. Even though you have 3 or 4 levels measuring every thing under the sun. The whole project hinges on the door fit. The fit up to the rear trunk/shock tower is pretty much a given. The front end where it welds to the hinge post/front inner fender is where you need to take the most time. The slightest deviation in MM makes a HUGE difference, IMO.

Like Cary said you'll need to brace the chassis in multiple places.
I built a stand to do my chassis repair on. My next step is going to make up a few more fixtures to support the suspension pick up points. Once everything is measured to spec it will be bolted/tack welded up. That should hold things while the work is being done.

I can't recall how many times we put the doors on and took off on my brothers 914.
It was need to confirm fitment and chassis dimensions.

any updates...