Is there a way to inspect fuel lines with out removing a lot of stuff. I have a slight fuel scent in the garage when the car sits all week. Its not real strong just a slight smell.every thing looks ok in the engine compartment and there is no increased smell wile driving ,just when it sits all week in the garage.

FI or carbs?

If FI, when was the last time you replaced all the fuel lines? And by fuel lines I'm not referring to the lines in the tunnel as they are probably not the source of a small leak.

Old fuel lines that leak with FI pressure is a fire waiting to happen.

It's FI, older lines for sure. If it's less likely the lines in the tunnel i will zero in on all visible lines. I assume there should be moisture or residue if lines are leaking?

There are two small rubber lines under the fuel tank. Drain the tank, pull it, put in a new sock, replace those lines. Put new stainless lines in the tunnel, plus the two through the sheet metal in the engine compartment. New filter while you are at it. Then all new rubber on top of the engine (called the fuel ring). And new seals on the injectors (two per). Rubber hoses should be high pressure FI ethanol reisistant.

Racer Chris, Tangerine Racing, and 914Rubber both have this stuff.

When all of that is done, take out the charcoal canister, cut a hole in the back, make a plate to go back over the hole, and fill the canister with aquarium charcoal.

Lot of work, but Napasteve is right. And you will feel better.

Also replace rubber seals at gas fill, gas cap & gas sender.

My plastic hoses were fine but the rubber hoses were a firebomb waiting to happen,I took the advise of most on here but went in a slightly differant direction,I replaced the hardlines from my tank in metal pipe from the tank to VW Golf FI plastic line to the engine space using the correct ferals,this stuff is very tough never seen it fail.
No need to replace the return as I'am on carbs for my 2.2 six.
Marks comment on tank and cap seals is right on mine were rubbish,a big improvement if you do the other work.

... this or up your insurance

Who carries the gas cap gasket,i can't find it on 914 rubber or is it in the full fuel line kit ftom tangerine.

Ive purchased it from 914rubber. Tangerine probably has it as well. You want to buy all 3 seals, just to be sure.

I just did the Tangerine full meal deal a few weeks ago, the kit does not come with the gas cap gasket.

Looks like I'll have to pull the tank to get to the flex lines underneath.
What's the rundown on lifting the tank?

Another place to look. Fuel Injectors. Both the injector itself and the short hose.

There is only a gas smell from the very front of car, engine compartment is dry and no fumes at all.

First, disconnect the battery (negative side first). After you've drained the fuel tank (either by directly siphoning or draining from the supply line at the rear firewall), remove the bolt holding the center tank straps together. Then remove the expansion tank (8mm bolts around the gas filler neck), unplug and remove fuel sender (also 8mm bolts). Go to passenger side and lift the tank up till you can see the lines. You're probably better off cutting them at this point, but if you have enough slack in the lines, you can try disconnecting them. Get a helper and gently lift the tank up while tilting it towards the front of the car. Then just pull the rubber blocks on the sides. easy peasy. no need to remove the hood. Just lay some protection around and be careful.

You may be able to avoid pulling the tank by removing the skid plate under the car (4 bolts) and checking the inspection hole under the tank. Feel around and see if there's wet gas around the supply and return connections. Or if the bottom of the tank cavity is wet.

Good luck!

Here you go:
Early Gas Cap Seal: http://shop.914rubber.com/914-Early-gas-ca...m?categoryId=-1

Late Gas Cap Seal: http://shop.914rubber.com/914-late-gas-cap...m?categoryId=-1

Expansion tank gasket:
http://shop.914rubber.com/914-Expansion-Ta...m?categoryId=-1

We do have the VDO sender unit seals too but they are not on the site yet.

Regarding draining the tank for removal - in my case I was not able to drain it using the supply line at the firewall. This was because the in-tank filter screen (aka tank sock) was badly clogged. I had to siphon the fuel out through the filler openin. As it turns out, I probably could have drained it using the return line as that flowed freely.

Considering that your problem may be fuel delivery, either clogged sock or pinched supply hose, draining via the supply may be difficult in your case.

I had difficulty with the under the tank lines pinching closed as I reinstalled the tank. Here is the thread discussing it:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=282633&hl=

A facet pump, battery and some fuel line down the fill neck makes draining the tank a breeze. Keep an eye on the fuel catch container.

Do you really need to pull the expansion tank and sender?

Do you really need the expansion tank and carbon canister? I am running a six with carbs? Currently I don't have the expansion tank or carbon canister installed.

Jeff B

I suppose you could leave the expansion tank on if you have enough clearance under the hood once the tank is lifted. Seems easier when removed. You don't need to remove the sender. I just find it easier to remove the sender for inspection / cleaning, etc. with the tank in the car, since the tank is a bit unwieldy out of the car.

Plenty of clearance to remove tank with everything on it. No need to remove anything.

I'm getting near to having the gas tank run empty so that I can do the fuel line replacement, but don't have the replacement sock that y'all talk about. Is it inside the tank, and do I really need to replace it since I intend to install a fuel filter in line between the tank and fuel pump I installed up front 2 yrs. ago?

Can the lines be changed using the inspection plate opening?

Buy a sock. Yes, it is in the tank, you access it by removing the tank nipple. You want to replace it because it can clog and restrict fuel flow. Here's how mine compared to the new one.

Yes, I've done it that way more than once.


BTW, the expansion tank and canister are not needed for the car to function, but they are nice to have. They help keep the fuel smell down by giving fuel vapors some place to go. Remember that air has to get into the tank when you draw fuel out of it, and where air can get in fuel vapor can get out.

Cutting down on gasoline fume emissions is a good thing in and of itself, and having a working evap system does not harm the functioning of the engine in any way. So I figure it's a good thing to have hooked up regardless.

--DD

Ok, so I removed the fuel tank and found the PO had only changed the return line and the supply line was still the old braided line that had crumbled and was weeping badly. So it looks like the general consensus is using the loop method for reinstalling the tank. Has anyone actually been able to access the tank fittings from the inspection hole and if so what type clamps and what tool fit in there to reconnect the tank side lines.

Best to use fuel line clamps, rather than worm-type. I used a 22" length of both hoses and they coiled perfectly under the tank. Had to "persuade" them to do that by twisting slightly before tightening down the clamp. I have accessed the fittings from the inspection hole...but you probably won't have to do that. The 22" lines allow enough slack to tip the tank up, attach from the top, coil and lower.

See my reply, which was in the post immediately before yours...

Use regular fuel-injection hose clamps. Those are shaped like an Omega, and the edges are rolled.

Access is tight through the inspection hole, but if you crawl around under the car enough you can get a hand in more than enough to fit the hoses.

--DD

Finished the job, the only real problem I had was getting the rubber shim's in correctly because I was doing it alone.
the 22" length works perfectly for the new hoses, just enough room to fit them on the tank and they loop real nice under the tank when installing.
thanks all for the help,