Hi all,

Yes, the "third" clutch adjustment on a new cable confirmed that I have a broken tube and I hoped it would end at a couple of repair ports. Unfortunately during my detailed inspection I found previous floor repairs (held for maybe 30 years) but a wee bit of rust crept in and stressed the firewall to the point of a tear from the floor and subsequent stress shear.

I know what I need to do, I'm just looking for opinions from someone who's been there. Inga is in the process of dismantling and here are the relevant bits:

1. Rust is confined to the area aft of the inner bulkhead support. All from within appears solid and unmolested.

2. The bulkhead tear is confined to the "droop" in the centre of the bulkhead. It appears that the damage started at the seam, though the floor extension appears good.

3. There is rust-through on the DS "last rib".

4. The DS jacking point appears solid, but the "inner triangle" of the piece is AWOL (I found a fibreglass "wadge" quite well concealed.

5. There is little or no evidence of rust inside the bulkhead; all the other substructure appears intact (including the HellHole)- a PO did a similar PS patch as I now need.

The "lumpectomy" is to be done this weekend to provide access. I have two general questions:

1. "Tech Tips 700" power plant removal vs. Pelican?

2. Fabricate repair panels vs. replacement?

I'm ready to get a shot bag and metal brake (I have everything else) but I'd like to avoid finding more surprises and changing horses mid-stream... this is where you all come in. Anyone?

I wouldn't attempt this kind of repair without taking out the engine and transmission.

If you can afford it, buy the repair piece, you'll end up with much less hassle and better final product. Even if you only use 20% of the panel, IMHO it's worth it.

I dropped my lump last week, using the how-to on this site by McMark and an engine lift plate from Tangerine Racing. (Links below.) Was a simple, straightforward job. The engine lift plate and a floor jack works great, one person job.

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php

http://www.tangerineracing.com/tools.htm

with Perry,

You're taking it apart now for work anyway, & you might as well get a clear view of all areas, figure what you need, the either get the parts from Restoration Design in CAN, or 19 ga sheet metal if you're into forming parts - but the repro repair pieces are probably going to be easier & a longer term fix. And don't assume that the longs & jack points, hell hole etc. are okay without an full inspection inside the longs & out - borrow or buy a gooseneck camera for the inners.

Then you can get good metal welded in there, properly rustproof & prime/paint to avoid the tinworm creep.

If it were just a case of the clutch tube push/pull through the firewall, then you can weld or bolt on a reinforcing plate & drive off, as that was a pretty common fix for it back in the day.


Tom
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I would say it depends on how fast you fabricate. I am so slow getting it right that I try to buy new or clean metal from a donor.

That area is a bit complicated and if the P.O. had fabbed some questionable parts, I would buy new, it will help you figure out what else is not quite right.

-Andrew

Hi Tom,

All good points! Yes, the power plant is coming out (today) and I've been looking for an excuse to get an inspection camera lol! As well, the lumpectomy will allow me to easily replace the pushrod seals with viton ones and properly assess the general condition of the heads and valve gear. I used to race formula vee so I have a fairly good idea what I'm looking at. Unfortunately I know what I'm looking at and need to resist the urge to split the case and put a carb cam in (to match the webers)- more power would be more fun, but also reveal any other chassis weaknesses... and and and... you see why I'm treading carefully here?

Dave
PS: I only recently found Restoration Design and I'm quite impressed with what I saw.