If I bought a 914 just to drive around and knew about the rust issues it had, but was more into it for the fun of driving it and owning one is $3k too much to spend? An earlier one I looked at, 75', had some major rust - in the door jambs on both sides to be exact, which you all have taught me means the longs are toast. There was also rust in the front and rear trunk that looked to be surface but that is usually on 10% another thing you all have taught me. The hell holes were solid. It was however a running, driving, stopping, cool looking - at least from 10 feet 914. It has 2.0 fuchs (only4) dellorto carbs, over jetted, 1.8. The interior is original and would definitely need to be redone, which I can do (kits $500??). My thinking is this, even if I don't fix the body and eventually want to transfer the parts to a better one, I have what $800 rims, $1k motor, $500 dellorto carbs. Those 3 items almost pay for the car. I would also try to get the genuine service manuals thrown in (~$600 -800). Oh and the stock steelies that came with the car. Would that be justified?

Rust is expensive. It might be worth it if you can get the price down. Where are you getting that the service manuals are worth that much? And what wheels are on the car? Show pictures also so we can evaluate a bit more.

I was going to forgo any rust repair and just drive it as long as my feet didn't fall through, hahaha

The service manuals are like the ones shown here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1976-Porsche-...~I-&vxp=mtr

Here is the craigslist listing:

https://frederick.craigslist.org/cto/6169781227.html

A lot of the 914's I buy are in similar condition. You can't really go wrong if a few parts come close to the cost of the car. ( I always estimate on the low side for parts value or at least actual sold prices). The downside to driving around with a rusty car is the greatly reduced safety. If the longs are meant to keep the car from crushing you in an accident and instead they fold up with you inside, you might have a problem.

Its really hard for me to say you should do that. New Market. Might be a local member here.

If it were me and you know it had structural issues that you don't intend to fix before driving it, I'd stand clear.

Shame, since the one picture makes it look like a nice car.

Zach

Well, bear in mind that you are back east where rust really rules, and I'm not. So my value thinking is colored by that.

IMO, that is too much if there is any chance that you will end up trying to restore that shell. It is borderline if it would only be a temporary driver and future parts donor. In that case, you have to consider how much you will have to pay for more restorable car, and how much part duplication you would end up with. For example, if the restorable car also had Fuchs or a good interior, you've doubled that up. In my experience, buying parts cars first, before you know what you need generally is a big waste of money. In variably you end up with duplicate good parts, and the parts car may still not have something that you need.

3k is a steal for that car IMHO Rust or no. Full running drivetrain is close to 3k in value, combine that with 2L fuchs and what I would assume is a complete interior... Thats a great car to drive around while you source a 1k chassis from the west coast and spend a year swapping parts around. If source a nice enough chassis cheep enough and put a full paint job on it, for ~ 6k in total you could have what would be a pretty nice car worth 10-15k as well as a decent amount of fun in the process.

My car is pretty rusty in the usual places but I bought it with the intention of fixing the rust before I put it on the road. The previous owner was trying to convince me to just drive the car home after I purchased (200 miles). While it ran great I had it transported instead. Later the passenger seat belt bolt on the long pulled right out of the car, found a few fuel leaks and other potentially dangerous issues. Definitely be careful and don't ignore possibly dangerous issues. I am always amazed how many think putting bondo over a hole in the frame is a structural repair.

With that senerio, you'll be selling off good parts you might want/need in the future just to get even. Almost...

I like andyrew's thinking better. Buy it only to source a West coast chassis and start the transfer. How much are complete FI systems anyway?

If you can get a car for less then the street value of its parts I say buy it, but...
Do you have the ability to part the car out and the space to store parts until they are gone?
I would not value a 1.8L at $1k nor workshop manuals at $800 (they are available in digital file now)

One more positive would be the lessons learned while cutting up a 914.
After cutting up dozens of car I pretty much know every nut and bolt and how the uni-body pieces are fit together. It is very helpful in assessing what is involved in repairing a chassis.

Well I went back. Rust was worse than I remember, but I offered 2k
He declined. Thanks for level setting. I hope you all don't mind me running to you for potential purchases.

The $3000 rusty 914 will cost you $20k in the long run and you'll still end up with a welded up Frankencar. You are always better to spend more on the front end and get a solid chassis.

Your highest priority when buying a 914 should be your ultimate goal with the car. Driving it? Working on it? Long term classic car project? Hot rod project? Investment flip? Parts flip?

The answer to your ultimate goal should guide what condition of car to buy. If you just want to drive it and don't want to work on it, you should buy a well sorted 914 which would push your budget up considerably.

If you want to do a parts flip to a better chassis, you won't be driving it for a while. In 914 terms, "a while" is anywhere from a couple of months to a couple of years to forever. You said you just wanted to drive it around.

My suggestion for looking for a nice 914 is to look beyond your backyard. You might find a nice 914 locally but there are many nice 914's around the country. I traveled about 200 miles to buy a nice 914 for cheap that I found on this board. I picked up my 930 in Denver, CO. I live in PA.

More pics of the car would help. Everyone who sells a 914 and doesn't want to show the vulnerable places show only the outside pics.

Rusty cars are dangerous.. There are 2 914s in my area that in that 4500-5000 range that are questionable just as yours was that you looked at. Then there is a 69k all documented 76 with zero rust the guy wants 6 for but it is unadvertised.

Bought my rusty project for 2600 and sold 2k in parts off of it and started the rust repair 2 years ago. I am now finally ahead of the curve and have 80 percent of the rust fixed and will fix the rest by the end of the year.

That all said i wanted a long term project and thats what i bought.. You should also evaluate your skill level as well when searching. I teach welding for a living so this fit well for me.