1/17/2021 - resurrecting to ask new question.

Had the fuel tank out to replace the fuel line in the tunnel. From that I could see the front sway bar. Interestingly, the passenger side was connected and the driver side is not connected. In a box of parts that was with the car I found the drop link for the driver's side. It, however, is missing the cap and bolts to attach it to the bar. Does anyone know where I can get the piece to fit this part? Size of the bolts? Thank you.

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contact Bruce Stone (bdstone914), he should have what you need

Is that an H&H bar? Stock droplinks don't have the adjustability feature. Rebush. The U bolt attachment system can be problematic.

Looks like an old H&H swaybar. Should be easy enough to have a cap made if you can't find one.

This is what the stock ones look like.

That bar was made by H + H Specialties.
The owner of the place actually sold them out of his house..
Used to be at 20 Reid Road Chelmsford Massachusetts.

No idea if he is still there though..

I have one that I won't be using. The mate to it was lost in shipping.

I have one of the levers but not the cap. I needed one and had a machine shop make one for $20

Old thread.
I know I should be long past this work by now, but, I'm not.
I am working on some the metal repair and removed the front sway bar today while letting the Rust Bullet dry. It took the BFH to get it out. And, I'm still trying to get the bushing out of the drivers side.

From the previous feedback it was said the U-bolts in the H&H design can be problematic. I can see that with the thin sheet metal.

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914LTD and PMB both sell front sway bar mounts.
Both configurations are substantial compared to the square u-bolts on this H&H it was said to be.

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The H&H uses all standard hardware. The bolt spacing for the top u-bolt is 2-1/4 inch.

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Can anyone provide the bolt spacing for the 914LTD version and the PMB version of the mounts?
I would like to see how they compare before choosing even with the welding involved.

Thanks,
Sean

Bushings are easy to remove. Just heat with a torch and pry it off.

Maybe someone can give you the exact measurements, but I think the bolt spacing is the same for both products. At least that's what Photoshop tells me when I resize them to match the hole for the bar and overlay one image over the other. Either way you will want to weld them in.
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Here is a picture of the bar end and bushing.
Bushing is a type of plastic - delrin, polyethylene, other.
Does anyone know the material of the bushing used originally?

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OEM bushings were rubber.
Is it recommended to keep same or find replacement rubber bushings that fit?

The bar is solid and heavy. 3/4 inch.
The pitting should clean up to reuse. Maybe powder coat.

Thanks,
Sean

That is an awful lot of front bar at 19mm. Stock was 15mm. I was wondering how big it was when I first saw the photos.

Like understeer? Somewhat joking since I have no idea what you have going on at the rear of the car. Unless you have some seriously stiff rear springs and a rear anti-roll bar (ARB) way bigger than stock inducing a lot of rear oversteer, that is a lot of front bar.

It's all about tuning to driver preference so if you like it, it's all good!

Given the nature of the bar, I don't think you'll find rubber bushings. Rubber would be too thin between the outer tube and the ARB to provide much isolation. Likewise rubber won't last long due to thin wall thickness available for the bushing.

If your Delron bushings are usable, stay with them. If they are shot a machine shop can turn up a set easily.

Cheers to @KevinW for having a part for you Kevin has helped me out numerous times. Great community!

Concur with way too much front bar on that! Understeer!

As others here have stated, for sure an H&H bar. The one I had sold in the past had a similar bushing. Factory bar flares out at the ends.
Good luck with your project!
Keep us all posted.

This might help. The aftermarket kits that work with the rest of the factory hardware will have the same spacing. I think it wise to finalize your bar selection before installing the mounts. I installed mine yesterday in fact (the 2-piece style). It really helps having all the bar bits to ensure everything will bolt up the ready.

Hi All,

Thanks for the replies.
I’m still at it. In fact, I’ve removed all the front sway at components. Parts are all separated and hardware is getting a good soak.
I agree that the sheet metal where these brackets were attached needs to be reinforced now that it’s all disassemble.

I’ve been following the other recent thread where someone was asking about ARB sizing and the suspension setup discussions there.

Where could I possibly source replacement rubber bushings for the drop links? They are not quite the same size as stock, a little bigger by comparison to the 914Rubber aftermarket split version.

I have not driven this car so I cannot comment on the feel or amount of presumable understeer. For now I’ll use what I have and get reassembled with a short term goal of making the car move under its own power. Tuning and improvements can come later.

Here is a comparison picture against the 914Rubber bushings.

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By the way, these two may look decent in the picture the others are shot.

Thanks

Sorry to contradict but I have the same H&H 19mm bar set full soft, stock six torsion bars, 140 # rear springs, 2.4 six, no rear bar, 205/50’s all around

I have tracked it and it handles very neutral and balances well with throttle. AFAIK It is actually a pretty common “street sport” set up.

Right here
https://914rubber.com/front-suspension-droplink-set-1

Good picture. Darn U bolts. The shelve directly under the bar hole needs to be clearensed to weld the inner plate correctly.

Mark, I appreciate the response.
If you go back and look at my picture, I’m comparing the 914Rubber bushings on the right and the old ones are on the left. I feel like stock replacement might be slightly undersized for my application with the H&H drop links. It’s not a stock bar and was made with all US sizing (not metric).

I’m having trouble finding where to buy replacements searching McMaster, Grainger, Summit, etc using the term rubber bushings. Is there a better description or a better source to search?

Thanks,
Sean

Yeah, saw that after ai posted. It was 3AM on a Fairbanks turn.
No you are looking the right places.
Make

I am using that bar with the H&H arms on my car with the stock drop links and the 914Rubber bushings. I also have the stock style reinforcement plate welded to the car (inner side of the inner fender).

I am using the stock cone style triangular cover for the main bar bushing. At the time, I bought these 19mm bushings from Pelican but they seem to be unavailable now.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PB-0...individually%29

I keep an eye on the bar as it can move from side to side after a while, but I did purchase a couple of split 3/4" collets from McMaster Carr and will use them when reassembling the setup (currently rebuilding the car).

You may have to consider something like this and than cut them down to suit your OD/ID purposes.

https://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Multi-Purpose...1691&sr=8-3

Alternately, fab your own drop links that can use OEM bushings.

I want you all to know I very much appreciate all the great advice that's been shared with me on this and other threads, so I find it is time to catch you all up.

First, I have no idea how this car drives or handles with the 19mm H+H front sway bar. One side of it was disconnected when I got the car and the car ran pretty awfully at the time. I was able to get the car registered and it has been parked ever since (sadly). Furthermore, as Superhawk asked about, I also have no idea what's in the rear. It actually looks like a set of Koni's under all the undercoating, but we still have to peel back that onion. That's for a day down the road.

Second, I tend to like to use what I have if and when I can. So, not knowing any better, I have decided to stick with the H+H front sway bar and put it to use while I work to get this teener back to road worthy.

Third, you all want pictures.


I was in a local discount hardware store and found some sheet steel for $5. What a deal! How hard could it be?
So I've made up my own reinforcement plates to fit the H&H sway bar and have eliminated the U-bolts.
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What follows are some progress pictures. (No bushings.)
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After welding, I decided to use seam sealer around the outer and inner edges to prevent water intrusion. I hope that is okay. I've top coated with black paint but don't have pictures of the final product to post. Will give it a week or two to cure before I bolt it all up (or maybe longer considering these updates).

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And, I've splurged on some powder coating.
Mmmmm, shinny...

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The old bushings are reinstalled for now. The split bushing set from 914Rubber are too small for the H&H drop links. But, for now it doesn't matter since the car remains on jack stands while the metal work progresses. I'll have to reassess the drop links and bushings down the road.

Again, thank you to all the contributors and readers. I appreciate the support.

Cheers,
Sean

Nice job. Glad to see the plates welded in properly!