Just wanted to introduce myself and my new 914. I picked it up today from a fellow forum member. I've edited his for sale ad and attached it below. This car is a survivor - no restoration, mostly all original. Solid car overall. I received the original owners manual, documentation of services performed over the years, original window sticker, original radio, and some spare parts.

The car was purchased new and kept by the original owner until around 2008 when he passed away. The car then sold to an older gentleman that never really drove the car. He kept it for around 2 years and then it was sold to a gentleman who took the car to Translog in York, PA to have it completely gone over, checked for rust, resolve any issues, etc. (See the work orders in the album). It was then purchased by the person I bought the car from and he owned it for approx. 5 years. During his ownership, he did the following:

Replaced the carpet
Replaced fuel pump
Installed stainless steel fuel lines and all new rubber lines (just as a "preventative" to get rid of the plastic fuel lines)
Installed LED turn signal and brake lights (purchased from forum member Spoke - they use the original connectors, can be switched back to regular bulbs simply by taking the LED out and putting in regular bulb)


The "bad":
Has some nicks here and there on the paint that have been touched up...typical little marks you'd expect for a car that is 44 years old. Drivers seat has a tear on the seating surface and also on the bolster. There was surface rust under the battery but before it got any worse the previous owner painted over it with a brown rust preventative paint. Hell hole is solid.

Here is an album of pictures:
http://s294.photobucket.com/user/jbachert/slideshow/914%20FS

A few things I noticed on my drive home today:
1) There's a clunk coming from the front while going over small bumps. I'm going to have to do some digging to figure out exactly what the cause is. Additionally, the steering is a little loose. In addition to what I find re: the clunk, I plan to go through the front end, update to turbo tie rods, replace the shocks, replace the wheel bearing, etc.
2) I'm going to have the seats recovered/repaired
3) All the weather seals/trim needs to be replaced as it is cracked.
4) The rubber boot that connects to the air filter was all cracked. The original part number is 022129971. I looked on autoatlanta and found a replacement part that fits my model and looks like the right part. On their website, the part number is B022129967P. Can anyone confirm this is right? I attached a picture of the torn boot that I removed.

Looking forward to being on this forum!

Best,
Alex

Trying to add additional pics, but I can only add one at a time bc of their size:

With my brothers Voodoo Blue Macan GTS

Nice score Alex! Nice Sapphire Blue Macan next to you too! That's double drooly time!



Just call AA on Monday & ask for George to confirm the part for you.

There are many things which can cause the front end clunk you heard - from bad/broken parts to bump steer. You'll have to look at everything to rule things in/out.

Sounds like a good plan for bringing her up to snuff.

Cheers!
Tom
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looks good , ,check swaybar link bushes if you have them?,could be worn out front struts making that noise,sounds like all the right work has been done already,go drive and enjoy .

Nice Car

Let the addiction begin

Your car looks good. Ya done good.

Very nice car. I like the LED lights.

The clunk from the front end could have something to do with the play in the steering wheel.

About the seals and intake hose, look up 914rubber for all these items.

An FYI: many folks avoid AutoAtlanta for one reason or another. Do a search here for AA.

I see you navigated here from rennlist...


The front end clunk could be a lot of things, but turbo tie-rods could be in your future...

I took someone's advice and came over!
To answer your RL question, the wheels are replicas. The spare wheel is a pedrini, so I'm assuming that is what the car came with. At some point, I'll be looking for an original set.

I looked on 914rubber and it looks like they only have the intake hose for a 1.8L. Hopefully, the AA part is correct. We'll see.

Hi Alex - Terrific car you found yourself. Cheers -

Since it looks like you have been on the forum for awhile (since you bought a car from a forum member), I am sure you have heard of 914rubber.com. Their seat kit is beautiful and will have those looking like new in no time.

As far as the "clunk" going over bumps, I was having this too recently after I put my new chrome bumpers on, and was worried I had screwed something up. What worked for me is, make sure the jack is secure in the front trunk. As soon as I did this, clunk was gone! (Yes, I know, should have checked that earlier, but at least caught it before I took it to the shop)

Beautiful car and great pickup on it. Enjoy it!!

I think 914rubber is now manufacturing the boot. Way less hassle dealing with them. You might consider familiarizing yourself with vendors other than the one in Marietta Ga. The noise could possibly be one of the strut retaining collars has loosened.

So, I think the sound is coming from the front wheel bearings. Both passenger and driver side have an incredible amount of play and make a noise similar to what I hear when driving.

To access the bearings, do I need to disconnect the brake lines from the calipers? The Haynes Manual says you need to, but I've seen one or two videos on YouTube where they don't seem to completely disconnect. They might just need to be adjusted, but I think I'm just going to go ahead and replace them.

My list of parts to order continues to grow!

Awesome car! A set of the orange plaid seat sets that Mark supplies at 914 Rubber would look great in that car.

I know it isn't original, but you have a non Appearance group car, so go for it.

Do you have the front sway bar on that car? Lower equipped cars usually didn't come with them.

And.....

To adjust the bearings, you pop off the cover, and to remove the rotor to change bearings, you need to remove the caliper, but you can move it out of the way without disconnecting the line- you just have to be careful it doesn't fall or stretch the line, etc.

Your clunking may come from loose bearings. That will send some bad vibes to the steering wheel.

It's worth a shot to just tighten the bearing retainer nut on the spindle. Jack up the wheel, remove tire and with a 7mm (IIRC) loosen the crimp nut and turn the retainer nut tight, then back it off just a hair. Put the wheel back on and see how it turns/feels.

If it still feels gritty or noisy, a new set may be necessary. Not a big deal to change out.

Good luck.

Larmo63, I agree, orange plaid inserts would look awesome, but I'm going to try and keep everything stock. And you're correct, the car didn't come with a sway bar. I think this was an essentially zero options car. I'm attaching a pic of the original window sticker.

SKL and Porschef, thanks for the feedback. I'll def try tightening the bearings first. If that fixes the clunk, at least I'll know what the problem was and I won't need to keep hunting it down. I'll still plan on replacing the bearings at some point, but it could always be done later.

That is great that you have the original window sticker!! I know I've got mine from the '71 somewhere but can't find it!!
Gonna get a replica done for the '73 (see thread in originality section)

A pic of my battery tray. It's moth-bitten at the rear edge, but the rest of t is rock solid. Does this look like the original tray? I'm planning on replacing the battery with an optima red top, but I'll do it once this battery kicks the bucket. In the meantime, I put a battery acid neutralizing mat beneath the current battery. I've attached a pretty c of it as well.

I've tightened the wheel bearings, but haven't gotten a chance to test drive it and see if the clunk is gone. It was almost a 120 degree rotation!!! of the adjustment screw to get it correct. There's no longer any noise when I rock the front wheels, so I'm hopeful the problem is fixed.

Turbo tie rods are on their way. It also needs new shocks and struts. When jacking it up or pushing on the front fenders, the current struts make a terrible creaking sound. I'm gonna go with Bilstein HDs all around. I have them on my 911 and like them. So, two new questions: besides the front struts, rear shocks, and the new lock rings for the top of the front struts, do I need anything else? I'm going to try to do the fronts without removing the strut. I'm going to leave it attached to the ball joint. I know this has been discussed in other threads, but any tips would be appreciated. I'm also sticking with the current springs, so I won't be ordering those either.

If the clunking is still there, check to see if the circular nut at the top of the shock housing is loose. I like your car. Your governor, not so much.

Are you sure it's the struts that are creaking? I just rebuilt the front end of my 914 (new bushings, balljoints, tierods and struts). The creaking noise that I thought was coming from the balljoints turned out to be coming from the A-arms -- the original bushings had collapsed to the point where the torsion bars were rubbing inside the A-arms, causing the noise. With everything replaced, the car is amazingly quieter.

Fortunately, the job of changing the struts is semi-independent of changing the bushings. If you change the struts and still have the squeaking, you can pull the A-arms without dropping the struts.

We are glad to have you as a member!

Konrad

Started on turbo tie rod install. Everything went well, but I've got a question. My new tie rods didn't come with a castellated nut and cotter pin. Instead they came with two nuts (shown in pic). Do they both go on? Guessing it's a jam nut. Which one goes first? Is there a certain torque?

Just updating my projects. Turbo tie rods are in. New ball joints are also in. Taking off the old ball joint nut was difficult. I ordered the special tool, but I couldn't keep it on the nut when trying to break it free. I would up using a dremel to cut the nut off. The ball joint pin was also stuck on both sides, so I'm going to take the strut to a local shop and have them remove the pin and separate the old ball joint from the assembly. I'm also going to have the shop put the new wheel bearing races in. Making progress!

Tie rod (still protected by the plastic cap bc I know I'd bang it up if it was left uncovered!) and ball joint.

Everything disassembled.

Here's what the original tie rods looked like!

* sorry for the multiple posts with single pictures, but I can't upload more than one at a time

Had to go buck wild on the ball joint nuts.

Also, my front struts were totally dead. They go in and out like a slide whistle. I can't wait to get everything back together and see how the ride quality improves!