Hoping to get some BTDT wisdom. I'm simply trying to remove the passenger side door handle and hit a major snag. The little M6 stud that attaches to the tab on the outer part of the handle is just spinning free so I can't get the self-locking nut off.



It isn't broken, it is still attached to the tab on the door handle, but loose inside. I've tried soaking the nut with PB Blaster, heating it with a propane torch, and trying to wedge a flat blade screw driver against the stud in an attempt to create more friction resisting the stud turning than needed to break the nut loose. There isn't a lot of room in there to work and I know from sad experience how easy it is to break the pot metal on these things. The only options I see now involve a drill and destroying the stud, or drilling in from the outer (tab) side to try to pin the stud enough to get the nut off. Either way, I need to make sure there is a path forward for a good repair. Even better would be the third option that you are going to tell me about

Can you dremel off the nut?

I thought about that. I'm not confident I have the skill to dremel off the nut without nicking the threads. Or are you suggesting to gut the stud off behind the nut? That would be doable if there is a good way to attach a new stud.

If the stud is spinning, it has a problem and there's no reason to worry about damaging it. It will need to be replaced anyway, perhaps with an oversized stud. I believe that someone here on World can repair these handles.

im dealing with the same issue. I'll be cutting the nut off. Once I get it apart, hoping to fix the stud with a bonding adhesive.

One solution I read about here, is a flat head screw (head exposed on the outside).

That could work I would think good old JB Weld would hold it tight. Does anyone know how these things are attached at the factory? Looking at my good one, It kind of looks like the stud has a button head that was press fit into the tab prior to plating. But I can't really tell for sure.

The only way I have ever been able to get them off when the stud spins is to cut the nut & stud off. I hate doing that, but I really don't see any other option. Once off you can drill out the stud then use a small nut & bolt for re-install. while not 100% for concourse cars it will work for a daily type driver. My 70 had that fix on the passenger side for over 10 years before I went ahead and replaced the complete handle with anon broken stud.

I cut off the stud or nut and then used a SS button head screw that I sourced from Lowes. I tapped the handle and used Locktite on the new screw. ( Lowes has a good fastener selection )

That would be me.

Cut off the stud/nut. Remove the handle. Drill the out stud. Replace the stud with a bolt or counter sink a screw.

If (or when) you break the mounting tab off when doing this, send it to me and I'll replace the tab.

That's what I'm looking for! A backup plan to my inevitable screw up. Thanks.

Cut a slot on the end for a small blade screwdriver to hold the stud

Now why didn't I think of that next time I have that problem I'm going to try this.

That sounds like the ticket. I won't be able to mess with it for at least a week, but will report back. Thanks for the tip!

I have a ton of spare door handles if you happen to go that route after you cut it off.

Out of curiosity, what would you want for a right side?

Last night I got a change to try the slot method. It was easy to cut a slot with a dremel and cutoff wheel just right to slip a flat blade screwdriver into. Should have worked perfectly - but didn't. I couldn't hold the screwdriver tight enough to get the nut to budge. I ended up slicing the stud lengthwise all the way down to cut the nut in half. Mine was rusted just enough to make the slot trick not work. Still, I think that is the way to go. Had it worked, the stud would have still been perfectly serviceable once something was done to keep it from spinning.

But the handle is off and now I need to drill out the old stud and replace it somehow. Anyone know the correct replacement for that peened pin hinge shaft? If I can get the flapper side of the handle off, I think I could replace the stud with a nearly invisible repair.

Okay, after cutting the nut loose and getting my door handle off, I've run into a few other issues.

1. I discovered a hairline crack indicated by the red arrow below. It doesn't go all the way through yet, but it is probably only a matter of time. Could I take this to a shop and have it brazed for reinforcement? Seems like that would work. Or what would solder do? I could do that myself. I'm just not sure how much reinforcement it would provide. I would love to hear opinions.

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2. Just replacing the ruined stud with a nut and bolt isn't going to cut it for me. I think it would be fairly easy to drill out the stud, countersink the hole, and solder or JB Weld a flathead bolt in place. After rechroming the part, it should be fairly invisible. But before I do that, I'm looking at options to more closely replicate the original. It looks like the stud is a self-clinching threaded stud sandwiched between the tab and the small metal reinforcement that appears to either be soldered or brazed to the tab. I can't tell because it is plated over. Anyone know? If it is soldered, it should be easy to remove and solder red locktite in a new stud. But it would be nice to know before applying any heat.

3. Finally, anyone know where to find a replacement for the hinge pin that is peened on both ends? Seems like it should be a common hardware part but I'm not even sure what it would be called. Closest I've found is a "headless rivet" and those don't seem easy to source. Alternatively, I'm guessing a rivet with low profile head would do. What have other people used?

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice.

Just get another door handle. The crack it going to get you. These were made of pot metal, not repairable.

How the hell are you mending the pot metal?

I'm not mending the pot metal. I'm replacing it with aluminum angle that replaces the bushing.

Seeeeeeeee....
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Click to view attachment

3. Finally, anyone know where to find a replacement for the hinge pin that is peened on both ends? Seems like it should be a common hardware part but I'm not even sure what it would be called. Closest I've found is a "headless rivet" and those don't seem easy to source. Alternatively, I'm guessing a rivet with low profile head would do. What have other people used?

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice.
[/quote]

I sourced that part from, dare I say it, AA about a year ago and it's in their catalog. Basically an allen bolt with a smooth shank through the assembly and only threaded at the end for a locknut which was supplied. Works great and just as smoothly as the original pin.

[quote name='scallyk9' date='Jul 26 2017, 08:24 PM' post='2510532']
3. Finally, anyone know where to find a replacement for the hinge pin that is peened on both ends? Seems like it should be a common hardware part but I'm not even sure what it would be called. Closest I've found is a "headless rivet" and those don't seem easy to source. Alternatively, I'm guessing a rivet with low profile head would do. What have other people used?

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice.
[/quote]

I sourced that part from, dare I say it, AA about a year ago and it's in their catalog. Basically an allen bolt with a smooth shank through the assembly and only threaded at the end for a locknut which was supplied. Works great and just as smoothly as the original pin.
[/quote]

You can reuse the original pin. With the amount of tension on it from the spring it will not back out. Install the pin in the handle so the end that is still "large" is at the top side of the handle.

Well... if this was a part buried deep in the car and a PIA to replace, I wouldn't have even asked the question about repairing. But it's an easy 20 minute remove and replace job and I'm cheap, stubborn, and curious. A bad combination.

So I did some googling on pot metal repair and discovered it CAN be repaired..... maybe. Here are the methods I found:

1. welding. Turns out SOME pot metals can be welded by a really skilled and experienced welder. That ain't me so moving on...

2. A product called Muggy Weld. This is a low melting temperature alloy used to solder pot metal and other white metals together. This looked like the best bet but it's $60 to get a small pack of sticks and flux so didn't pencil out for this little experiment.

3. Brazing. Like welding, it depends on the composition of the pot metal and the skill of the brazer. I thought about taking it somewhere to have a pro give it a try, but sounds rather risky.

4. Soldering. I'm pretty good at it and can do it myself. The part was headed to the scrap pile anyway, so I decided to give it a whirl. I decided to use silver solder because I thought it might be a bit stronger than lead. For heat, I used a propane torch. It actually went quite well. I had a nice, clean repair with solder that flowed out flat and down into the crack. Then I decided I would just touch it up a bit. I got a little too high on the hole for the pin where the metal gets thin and partially blew out a bit of pot metal. The melting point of the pot metal is only a few degrees hotter than the solder, so it is tricky business. But I was already in at at this stage so I switched over to my 100w soldering iron used for seaming gutters and tried my hand at filling that blowout. It took some finesse, but I wound up with a pretty clean looking patch. Only time will tell how well it holds up. It might bust off on the first cold day. Or maybe it will last for years. It seems pretty strong though.

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I think after it is rechromed, you won't be able to tell I was there. For the stud, I'm going to drill it out, countersink the outside of the hole, and solder in an M6 countersunk bolt that again, should disapear with chrome plating.

scallyK9 and URY914, thanks for the tips on hinge pins. I managed to squish one of the heads down on this one to get it out in a reusable state, but I think that was just freakish luck. I'll be taking apart the other one for plating and it's good to know the pin can be reused. I might just JB Weld a little cap onto the cut end for extra measure.