Hey all,
I took the car out on a slightly extended drive "mile up the road and back. The head temp sensor for number three was running 300 the same for number one "I have dual CHTs".
I took it real slow and got the car home. What the hell is going on? I checked my cooling flap arm and it is all the way up. The engine is a 2.0L with the timing set at 3500 @ 27 degrees BTDC. I also just installed a external oil cooler, which doesn't seem to be working. I'm so frigging pissed off!

Which cooling flap is all the way up? Passenger or driver side?

what is your oil temp ?
is that 300 degrees F or C ?
'cause 300F doesn't sound too hot for head temp, which isn't really related to oil temp...

check out This Thread that talks about what temps are 'normal'

Two things:
1. 300 isn't hot--for heads. In fact, if your heads are running at 300 you are in great shape.

2. Oil temperature and head temperature are only slightly related, as Jake has said before.

Now if your OIL temp was 300, you'd have BIG problems.

(oops, cross posted with ArtechnikA)

When was your oil cooler cleaned off last?

Did you take the oil out of the cans before you put it in the car?

Hey! I am just trying to help!



M

QUOTE (redshift @ May 15 2005, 04:04 PM)

Did you take the oil out of the cans before you put it in the car? Hey! I am just trying to help! M

SHOOT That is what the problem is! I was wondering why those damn cans where a tight fit.



Then I'm good then with 300 head temps? Wheeewww I was starting to sweat through my knee caps. The only thing I could think of was well....any moment now I'm going to drop a valve, my "only" and greatest fear. OK, getting stuck in the head with no toilet paper that is the other.

The new oil cooler was put on last week and today was the first day out with it. The only thing I forgot to mention was I didn't put on a oil thermostat. I went to Jegs last week and got the best reinforced oil tubing money could buy. I ran the cooler up front to get as much air as possible. I didn't like the box stock hoses in the kit, not to leave out they were only long enough to mount the oil cooler in the rear. I nixed that idea because of all the heat. My temp guage doesn't work either. I need to get some sort of oil guage to keep a eye on the temps. Reasonable idea where to get one ?

Oh yea before I forget. The armature with the spring thingy is all the way up when it is warmed up. So this must mean that I'm getting max cooling from the factory setup?

Questions, Questions, Questions......

Thanks a bunch guys, I really do appreciate your guidence as always.

How are you taking the oil off the engine to run to the cooler?

If you are using a oil filter by pass your oil is traveling 10+ feet from the pump to the bearings instead of 4 inches.
I use this.
That way the cooler is plumbed just like the factory did it .

The kit had a sandwich plate that screwed on where the filter went and has one out and one in orifice. From there it goes over to the unit that holds the filter "about 15 inches" away. I bolted that right to the firewall. From there it travels up to the front then back as you mentioned. It is one big loop for certain. I followed the instructions to the T, I just keep reading about in line oil thermostats here on the site and think maybe I need one also. I'm not going to race the car ever, just for trips to the car shows and such.

Your oil is take a round the world voyage from the oil pump to the bearings.
Instead of 4 inches.
That cant help your oil pressure any.

QUOTE (Type 4 @ May 15 2005, 03:44 PM)

How are you taking the oil off the engine to run to the cooler? If you are using a oil filter by pass your oil is traveling 10+ feet from the pump to the bearings instead of 4 inches. I use this. That way the cooler is plumbed just like the factory did it .

but with this you cannot run a stock cooler. front oil coolers dont cool well in traffic

BTW- steve, the two 'case plugs' on the area where the stock cooler mount, could you use those to get oil to a front cooler?

Here is the bypass installed in a 105.5x82 2867cc that I just put in a Baja Vert.
You can see the stock oil cooler in the photo.
The lines run up to a RX-7 oil cooler mounted on the cage.

You could use the Two plugs but there isnt much room for the fittings.

Here is another photo showing the stock cooler in place.

Type 4,

Type 4,
Where can you get the bypass like you showed? Does it fit the type 4 and what do they cost?

It is CB Performance #1790.
You will need to make a small block off plate on the oil cooler tin .
To cover the gap once the by pass is installed.
Be sure and use the oil cooler Flap.

Maybe I need to do something like you did Type4.......
Right now I'm bidding on a temp guage and sender on ebay. Once I win that I'll know what I'm up against with heat. Until then I have a lazer temp gun and I can spot check the oil from time to time. Better than not knowing and blowing a engine.

I use one of the mocal sandwich adapter units with the built in thermostat to run oil up to the front cooler. I had an oil pressure gauge mounted both before and after the conversion, and I noticed ZERO drop in oil pressure. I used -10 aeroquip blue socketless hose and a small (8x10) thru cooler.

I would recomend a thermostat for two reasons, you run the chance of blowing up your cooler in colder weather, and it will help you oil get to temperature faster, too cold oil is almost as bad as too hot oil.

Also, you will have to drop your motor to put in one of the adapters that Steve is showing, cause you have to pull the fan shroud to mount it.

Hope that made some sense...

Tony