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Nacho
Hello All

Can some one tell me of a place to order the shims that go between the flywheel and crankshaft? Also, are there any detailed simplified write-ups on how to install?

Thanks
Frankvw
there are many movies and forumposts about this, but for an idea, check link below.
(it is not a type4 engine, but a 1600 aircooled engine, idea is the same)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhYn3m-E2pY
IronHillRestorations
You should always use 3 shims. The middle shim is the one that I swap out.

Take out the flywheel O ring, and the rear main seal (RMS), torque the bolts to spec. You can use the old locking plate when you are measuring and adjusting, just use a new one when you put it all together.

Best way to measure is with a dial indicator, but you can do it with feeler gauges.

Gently pry the flywheel away from the case with two large screw drivers.

Before I had a dial indicator, I used a set of vicegrips on one of the big studs, and I positioned it so one of the rivets in the vicegrips just barely contacted the edge of the flywheel. Then I use a rubber mallet and tap the flywheel in. Measure the distance between the rivet and the edge of the flywheel with your feeler gauges and that's your end play or end float.

I just did this. End play was out of spec at .009. IIRC the spec is .0027-.005 I got lucky with the first shim I tried and hit .004 on the nuts.

I've always been lucky to have the right shims. There's several sizes.

Don't put the new RMS in before you get it in spec.

Use a new SABO RMS. If your RMS isn't 12mm thick, don't use it. There's a 10mm seal that's the right OD and ID, and you will probably have a leak if you use that one.
mgphoto
Shims are nla from porsche and vw, if you are out of spec find a friend with some.
Nacho
Thanks everyone. I figured that the shims would not be available from Porsche, but does anyone make aftermarket shims for our engines? I have to assume yes since you can buy new flywheels. I'm trying to piece my engine back together and I don't have any shims at all headbang.gif
Krieger
You could try Engine Builders Supply. Maybe Fat Performance or other places that build engines. High Performance House, Easy or Parts Heaven.
Olympic 914
You can buy this tool and use feeler gauges, similar to what Perry said.

I bought one but ended up using a dial indicator.

https://www.amazon.com/CRANKSHAFT-ENDPLAY-T...y/dp/B00FEYLDKS

Click to view attachment

You can try putting a WTB in the classifieds, someone may have a supply or some left over from a previous engine job.

Click to view attachment



Valy
Call High Performance House. I got shims from them when I rebuilt my engine and it didn't look like they are running out.
(650) 364-6234

What size stack do you need and what shims do you have? I'm sure someone could help you.
Mark Henry
I measure with two shims installed, do the math and it almost always comes out perfect.
Spec is .003-.006, I always aim for .003".
To me .006 is the tolerance on a well used engine.

If you even think about using a 4th shim it means the thrust is totally shot and it's time for a rebuild. It won't work even temporary, the crank will hit the saddles.
TheCabinetmaker
Shims are available at Bughaus, and probably other vw parts houses.
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