as the title states what is the best way to remove the ball joint from the control arm with out the proper tool?

Are you replacing it, or just need it disconnected for other work?
The 'fork' usually destroys the rubber boot and therefore the ball joint.

Try heating the housing (with a torch) then hold one hammer on one side and hit the opposite side with a second hammer. If there isn't too much rust, the combination of expansion from heat and vibration MIGHT cause the shaft to pop out.

Then go to AZ and rent the removal tool.

Good luck!

He's wondering about the ball joint from the control arm not the ball joint from the strut housing.

Without the tool, I did both of mine by using a pliers like these, or a pipe wrench. Either style with a breaker bar.

The design of this tool means that the harder you squeeze to loosen the bolt, the tighter the jaws get on the bolt.

do you mean the steering tie rod to strut? Pickle fork or a BFH

OR

The ball joint in the control arm is the big 4 slot collar. . You can drive it around with a hammer and punch but it usually destroys the nut

The round 4 slot nut on the bottom?

There's a jeep or is it ford 4WD front hub socket that's cheap at most auto parts stores. Not a perfect fit but good enough to do the job.

I think it's this one https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648477-Sp...r/dp/B0015V1QF6

The one that does the steering is a tie rod end.
The one at the bottom of the strut is the ball joint.
The tie rod end can be removed after loosening the nut by holding a BFH on one side
of the pitman arm while striking the opposite side with another large BFH
Be accurate. It will jump out from fright.
Thr balljoint can be removed with a BFH and a punch but the round 'nut' will be damaged. The locating tab on the control arm can be damaged too.
Don't be too aggressive.
Heat is your friend. Or the right tool which can be had for ~ $25 from
Baum Tools in Fla.

Buy the proper tools. The pickle fork is cheap. The socket is $25-50 but you can use it to tighten as well. Use it on an impact wrench and removal is a piece of cake.

Just buy the tool. As stated earlier they're less than $25, and it works quickly.

Buy the tool,really not expensive,if you own a 914 and don't want to buy tools times will be hard..no question.
Don't use a "picklefork" they do a great job of ripping the balljoint boot unless you don't care or are replacing them.

OOPS, I just checked at Baum tools.
It is now about $80.
Pelican offers two $108. OR $57.
It was $25. When I bought it.

The tool won't get that crown nut out. Use a big pipe wrench or chisel and hummer.
The tool only works to put them on.

The one I have does a great job of removing the nut. It was the cheaper one at pelican. We have a better one at the shop that the guys use to remove the nuts day in and day out.

Make sure you soak the nut in PB Blaster overnight. Make sure your impact is rated for more than 250lbs. Make sure the socket is on correctly, it will be at an angle, not straight up and down. Nut should spin off with a quick burst of the trigger.

Use the correct tool!

We use a lot of liquid heat at the shop to remove corroded nuts and bolts. Touch some wax to it once it's hot. Doesn't have the fumes like the solvent based penetrating oils.

i got in on and off real good with a pipe wrench and a jack handle. i may have made the pipe wrench look like a banana tho lol. thanks for all the replies, i would buy the tool but it would be more stuff for my to carry/store in my move! next time!

Like Mark, I have the cheaper one at MiddleMotors. Use a Baum/SIR at Rothsport.
2 chuga, chuga and its over.

I wanted to ask for some tips or advice on this to avoid any damage!

I am trying to change my ball joints (73) which have rotted (rubber is cracked) Decided to buy the tool for the ball joint nut (Sir tool 4 pronged).

1. First off I've removed the cinch bolt from the base of the shock absorber but the ball joint pin seems firmly attached inside the base of the shock absorber/strut.

Can I heat that area to try and loosen it or does that risk damage to the shock/strut?

2. Is a pickle fork safe to use here, I'm concerned about damaging the control arm (not concerned about the ball jt as its going in the bin)

3. Is an impact driver best to remove the old balljoint nut (using the 4 pronged socket) or can you use a breaker bar? Same question for torquing up the new one. Wondered if people have used a thick walled ext bar on their breaker bar for more leverage?

4. Finally I've started this with the top hat and brake caliper still attached. Should I have removed these first?

Click to view attachment

The 4 prong tool is for install ONLY not removal.
For removal you need penetrating oil and the largest pipe wrench HD sells.

Trying to use the 4 prong tool for removal will only result in a broken tool. Don't even THINK of trying to put an air impact wrench on it.

Again. Take your #3 idea and throw it away. Use a big ass pipe wrench.

Zach

I disagree with Zach. I’ve removed the ballpoint nut on at least 20 pairs of rusty front struts. (The shop gets a lot of guys moving to 3.5” Bilsteins from 3” struts. 4 prong tool and impact gun every time.

This is the tool you want. JimmyT on pelican makes them. They are a work of art and as functional as they look. The cheap pelican tool is two piece and mine fell apart. Jimmy’s tool fits the ballpoint nut perfectly and an impact gun makes short work of the job. With the nuts costing $20 each, why use a hammer and punch which ruins the nut when you can use the right tool and reuse the hardware. Worth every penny.

I do use a large pipe wrench to remove the nut that threads into the top of the strut body and holds in the insert. Hold the strut in a vice at the caliper mount and add some heat if it’s really stubborn.

If you choose to use a large pipe wrench while working on your car, just be careful that you don’t pull the car off the jack stands or the lift. Seen it. It ain’t pretty.

Thanks Zach and Mark for your advice. I bought the $70 tool from pelican. I probably need to buy an Impact wrench as I don't have one and will need it to tighten up the new nut.

Is it okay to heat the base of the strut? No risk of damage to the strut end. I had an initial go with a pickle fork but the top of the old ball jt seems to be stuck in there. I don't want to damage the bottom of the strut or the control arm. Is liquid heat a spray on product? I've been soaking it with WD40 for some days!

Nick

Sounds like there is a much better tool now then the one they used to sell. Learned something new.



Zach

Wish I'd seen the link on Pelican or asked earlier!

WD40 is water displacement, not penetrating oil. Liquid heat is tongue in cheek for a torch. Buy a mapp gas torch at your local home center. $50 and you will wonder how you ever lived without it. It's fine to get the strut hot. It will damage the paint but since heat will expand what's holding a part in place, it helps break the corrosive bond and is actually a more gentle way to separate parts than brute force. Once you get the part hot for 2 minutes, let cool a bit, spray penetrating oil to lube the area that needs to slide or get unstuck and then remove. If it doesn't come loose, repeat and don't be shy about the heat.
I've always found the pickle forks that are usually available have too shallow an angle to really wedge off the balljoint. There's a balljoing separator that sells cheap and your local flaps, autozone, etc might lend it out.

Just did this today, the tie rod end came off easy with the tool shown above, lower round nut with 4 cutouts came off somewhat easily with Mapp heat and a 14" pipe wrench. Tomorrow we will be going after the ball joint/strut. Nut came off easily, bolt punched through easily, does not want to budge from the strut with a pickle fork. Will try Mapp heat tomorrow.

Rent the tool…

Round nut with 4 prongs?

Bottom nut? Copious amounts of AeroKroil and air chisel in one of the tangs. Bursts. Tapping around the nut with a small hammer can help break any rust bond and help the penetrant penetrate. Do not pull the car off any jackstands when reefing on the nut.

Bottom nut came off easily with heat/pipe wrench. No damage

Oh THAT nut…
What he said, every time ^^^^^^