Should I rebuild my rear calipers or buy some rebuilt ones from someone else?

I’ve heard that the rears can’t be rebuilt very well.

Were is a good source that wouldn’t break the bank for rebuilt ones if that is the case.

I rebuilt mine. I bought the parts from PP had to split the calipers to get the pistons out. THey were a bit pitted but I did a bit of light polishing ( not sanding ) and thank God they do not leak and work well. I must admit, I saw that the hand brake assembly or mechanism worked OK so I did not drill and pull out that "freeze plug". But all in all, it did not take but an evening for me to do the job and there are a number of how to articles out here that did a great job of walking you through the process.

I vote for you to give it a shot,
Remember if you mess up, the front brakes are the ones that really stop you any way.......just kidding.

Rebuilding rear calipers

I recommend you read the above link...then based on what you read, and what you feel your skill level is, make your decision

also, if you decide to pay to have them done, I'd recommend Eric (the writer of the article above), he knows what he is doing and the parts look as good or better than factory.

get Eric to do them... best money I've spent on my car! these cars are short on safety: brakes are about it... Eric does a great job and they look amazing too! I wish I had back all the time I spent working with old, shitty calipers instead of buying Eric's Calipers FIRST!!

QUOTE (dralf @ May 17 2005, 09:17 AM)

had to split the calipers to get the pistons out

Why would you have to do this? Couldn't you just clamp down on one and use high air pressure to get the other one out? This works perfectly on the other calipers I have done it on, but I havent rebuilt the rears yet.

I would split the calipers. Then you can replace the inner o-ring on the outboard adjuster.

Just did mine this week.
Rebuild kits are $22.95 each from HPH.

KT

QUOTE

I must admit, I saw that the hand brake assembly or mechanism worked OK so I did not drill and pull out that "freeze plug".

Good thing... those kits "aren't" available from Pelican and they're $50.00 each. More than a very decent set of cores.

Depending upon your confidence level and the tools you've got... tackle them yourself. Kits are fairly inexpensive and if you get to a point where you don't want to mess with them you can always box them up and send them to me. Win-win there. I'll even give you a kit credit if you supply them (damn I'm a nice guy)

Read through that thread that Mike posted (thanks Mike and Wayne for the kind words ). It pretty much details the entire process. Once you have them torn down it's a good idea to find a local plater and apply a new coat of yellow or clear zinc. A lot of these calipers are rusting on the outer edge of the bores and if properly treated they should last another 30 years. Check my caliper thread below for pictures of both yellow and clear (silver) calipers.

FOR EVERYBODY: I've torn apart hundreds of these things. I've seen the good the bad and the ugly. Just today I pulled a 4" squiggly worm of old, solid fluid out of a caliper. I've seen calipers that have had the fluid changed "regularly" and they look "AWESOME". Take care of your investments. Change the fluid at least once a year and once a race if you're autocrossing (right Trek?).

The rears are not like the fronts. I think that you "MIGHT" be able to blow the piston out the last 1/8" or so, but it would be a tight squeeze and it would be more difficult to really clean the calipers without splitting them.

From what I can tell, Eric does an excellent job and seems to be really good to work with.

QUOTE

Couldn't you just clamp down on one and use high air pressure to get the other one out? This works perfectly on the other calipers I have done it on, but I havent rebuilt the rears yet.

Nope. The rears can't be "pressured" to come out (pun intended). John is correct (thanks John). They crank out with the adjuster screws. In theory you should be able to crank them out without sliptting the halves but there's seals on those adjusters that you'll want to replace (Outer and inner. Trekkor, did you do the inner as well?)

Installing the inner adjuster is the only real tricky part. The other stuff is outlined in the thread. I wouldn't fear splitting them. The PP kit comes with the caliper half seals.

QUOTE

(right Trek?).

Does every body know about this?

Where did they hear this?
What? ...Nevermind.

KT

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ May 17 2005, 11:42 AM)

get Eric to do them... best money I've spent on my car! these cars are short on safety: brakes are about it... Eric does a great job and they look amazing too! I wish I had back all the time I spent working with old, shitty calipers instead of buying Eric's Calipers FIRST!!

He's done my fronts, rears & this week my pedal cluster. I have learned my limitations and think it's better to have some things done right the first time.

QUOTE

it's better to have some things done right the first time.

...or the right "color" the first time

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ May 17 2005, 09:40 PM)

QUOTE it's better to have some things done right the first time. ...or the right "color" the first time

that a jab at the shitty-beyond shitty paint job on my cores? that's it, you're blocked

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ May 17 2005, 07:43 PM)

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ May 17 2005, 09:40 PM) QUOTE it's better to have some things done right the first time. ...or the right "color" the first time that a jab at the shitty-beyond shitty paint job on my cores? that's it, you're blocked

You can un-block him now, that was a jab at himself (this time ).

Yeah... my feable mind. I did Bill's rears in silver then sent him a set of golds for the front... Dooh!

And thanks for reminding me... your cores had the "finest" finish I've seen in a long time

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ May 17 2005, 11:42 PM)

Yeah... my feable mind. I did Bill's rears in silver then sent him a set of golds for the front... Dooh! And thanks for reminding me... your cores had the "finest" finish I've seen in a long time

yep, they were beautimus