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Full Version: Crank fire mod - removing Dizzy drive gear
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draganc
I'm converting my 2056 to a crank fire system for FI and spark (wasted).

I also just completed my first lath project and made a plug for the dizzy hole.

Now here is the question; do/would you remove the dizzy/cam drive gear?
Is it even removable from the "outside"?

Any pros or cons?

Thanks,
dc

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euro911
There is a special tool for removing the drive gear, but you might be able to grab it with long needle-nose pliers or a strong magnet.
Mblizzard
It could bounce so i would remove. Strong mag works well.
Tbrown4x4
Don't forget to retrieve the thrust washer from the bottom of the gear.
Mark Henry
agree.gif
You have to take it out or leave the old dizzy in there. It could jack out causing all kinds of mayhem.

The plug I'd make a hold down or glue it to the case.
GeorgeRud
Rich Clewitt's plug utilizes a central bolt to expand and seal his plug for the crank fired 911 engines, so I think some hold down is needed. If not, internal pressures might well blow it out of the distributor hole.
draganc
Thanks for all the valuable inputs!!

How many thrust washers are normally installed, one or two?

I machined the plug to a tight fit utilizing the original dizzy seal.
Once pushed in, it's a very sold fit. I had to use a flat blade to lever
it out. Ultimately, I'm planning on a hold down bracket, mounted to
the plug and original bolt.

McMark
QUOTE(GeorgeRud @ Aug 11 2017, 09:24 AM) *

Rich Clewitt's plug utilizes a central bolt to expand and seal his plug for the crank fired 911 engines, so I think some hold down is needed. If not, internal pressures might well blow it out of the distributor hole.

I haven't seen a problem on 3+ cars without a hold down. You really shouldnt have that much case pressure.
worn
QUOTE(McMark @ Aug 11 2017, 06:37 AM) *

QUOTE(GeorgeRud @ Aug 11 2017, 09:24 AM) *

Rich Clewitt's plug utilizes a central bolt to expand and seal his plug for the crank fired 911 engines, so I think some hold down is needed. If not, internal pressures might well blow it out of the distributor hole.

I haven't seen a problem on 3+ cars without a hold down. You really shouldnt have that much case pressure.


Well I thought so too. But when I made plugs for the head vents, they blew out. Remade them tight and glued into place and no problem.


I agree about pulling the drive - I wouldn't want it running with no thrust from the dizzy to hold the gear in place. It does come out pretty easy.
Frankvw
Yes...remove it. Either it comes out easy or by using a tool like this
Click to view attachment
Mark Henry
QUOTE(draganc @ Aug 11 2017, 10:00 AM) *

How many thrust washers are normally installed, one or two?


Type 4 has one heavy shim with oiling groves cut into it.
The type one has two thin shims.

Likely the shim will stay on the drive, but if not it's easily fished out with a magnet. The spring on the drive easily pulls out with needle nose pliers.
If it's hard to get out rock the crank back and forth.
draganc
Victory is mine!

Just for the record and for the next guy or gal facing
the same question, a few pictures:

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wndsnd
I think the hold down is a good idea. I have one on my 2.7 with Clewett plug.
McMark
Certainly can't hurt. I just wanted to add a vote in the 'It's not NECESSARY' column. I doubt anyone has more blow by than me with a turbo on a tired 1.7. happy11.gif
ConeDodger
QUOTE(McMark @ Aug 12 2017, 10:25 AM) *

Certainly can't hurt. I just wanted to add a vote in the 'It's not NECESSARY' column. I doubt anyone has more blow by than me with a turbo on a tired 1.7. happy11.gif


agree.gif if you have enough case pressure to blow the distributor plug out, you have enough pressure to do the same to your crank seals. I think Mark had mine held in with a friction fit o-ring. No problems.
Montreal914
Great mod overall. smilie_pokal.gif

So what is the next step?... Aftermarket F.I.?.... popcorn[1].gif
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