i'm doing better and better, but i know i can go faster.

at the AX on saturday, demick and i were shooting tire temps. just as i thought, my fronts were significantly hotter on the outside than the inside. i don't remember the exact numbers (though IIRC they ranged from 80-95 deg F), but the disparity was significant enough that i'd like to dial in more neg. camber.

i know that a few people grind down the shock tower in front -- before i go cutting, i'm just curious if anyone has any "after" photos of this mod...

thanks n

gack; if it's what you've gotta do, i understand, just seems a lot of work...

Elephant has camber-offset ball joints, and WEVO has monoball upper strut bearing mounts that permit lots more negative camber without tub mods...

but - do what you've gotta...

thanks, rich

i'll look into these as options... curious what other people have...

who owns rob ways car now? i know that he did this to his AX 914

QUOTE

i know that he did this to his AX 914

Chung owns it.. and I cut it. Bring the car up to Yeamans TONIGHT and I'll cut it.

You have NO idea what you are getting into.. You cant "just" move the strut inside. You'll need to remove the dust covers for the shocks... reset toe.. measure camber...

I would imagine it can be done with a hacksaw.. but it takes 15-20 minutes with a die grinder.


B

i'll stop by, we'll talk. if it's too much, that's fine...

n

I need to make a "Fry's" run, but I'll LEAVE Andy here.


B

QUOTE (Brad Roberts @ May 18 2005, 08:44 PM)

but I'll Andy here.

nice english, dude ...

yupp, got pizza and beer!
Andy


asdfgsadgsd

Nathan,

Do you want any pizza ??


B

i have a thought on how to get more camber and make it look stock. if i am not wrong if you do any mods for more camber it can bump you up in class, or at least can count towards a bump in class.

to show what i mean i would need a pic from straight down on the shock top area on the fender. the mod i am thinking would work would be cutting the top of the shock tower in an oval shape around the holes. with the holes being offset from center. then switching the part from pass to drivers side and vic versa. then welding it back in, then grind the welds smooth. this would place the holes closer to the center line of the car but if the welding was done right it would look stock.
there would be now way a tech would show that the holes where relocated like grinding the holes does.

I went to a lot of time, $$ & effort to get -2 up front.
Now I gotta undo it. My new tiars like -.8 or so.
Problem: I don't have room on the pass side front.. tire to fender...to let it out.
Gonna wait till next winter to booger up my new paint job there.

Another thing that you will run into if you cut away what you really need is that the upper strut mount will come into contact with the body on the inboard side of the strut tower. To solve this you can cut away a narrow section of the inboard side of the strut mount and restructure where you cut away. All this will leave a visible void on the outboard side of the strut tower top. I haven't done it, but I have seen it done. More to ponder.

QUOTE (scott thacher @ May 18 2005, 08:57 PM)

there would be now way a tech would show that the holes where relocated like grinding the holes does.

Wouldn't that be cheating? I mean what's the point of cheating for club AX. How can you feel good if you win?

"There are cheaters and there are losers" thats what I have always been told about racing...

all in good fun

J.P.- those are the same camber plates I've got- see my post on adding plates, losing ground. What all did you need to do to get to -2.0, and what tires are you running now that don't need all that much camber?

The neatest way to get some more neg is to set both top mounts to the middle position, measure the camber, then pull the legs out. Take the brakes and hubs off, pull the inserts out of the leg, put it in a vise and then bend the leg the desired amount. You need a big tip on the torch to heat just above the stub axle. You can calculate the bend you need and measure it with a staight edge on the caliper mounting face to the top of the strut. Let cool repaint, reassemble.

good one

Piece of cake.

although not as slick as bending here is my way

if you cut an oval shape out of the tower with the center shifted to the center of the car, then took the section cut out and swaped it side for side on the car and welded it back it the holes whould be un modified. the oval on the pic is a poor example of where you would have to cut but it should give you an idea. the red lines show how much you would gain by swaping side to side. if you cut it 1/2 inch torwards the center you would gain 1/2 inch of adjustment.

i hope you can see what i mean with the pic

You can do anything you want to your car scott. You would be in SCCA Prepared class anyway with your SUBY motor.
If you do this method to a car you had better be a real artist with a welder AND GRINDER.

QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ May 20 2005, 08:21 PM)

You would be in SCCA Prepared class anyway with your SUBY motor.

prepared!?

engine swaps move you straight to Modified AFAIK ...
(they did, times - and rulebooks - change...)

looks good on paper.....

If you're going to go to all of this trouble, why not extend the A-arm? It's a fairly simple piece of metal and you would get the benefit of a wider track....

Like Mr.Fry said above, the inside edge of the mount is hard up against the inner wall of the tower....it no move in no more without moving that wall. As I have things set up, the dust cover of the strut is history.

I looked at extending the A-arm.....it could be done, but I don't trust my own welding skills that much.

Tires? 10 X 22 R35 Hoosier slicks. I get to try them out tomorrow.