I have started to cut out my floorpans now. While cleaning up tar and other gunk, I found that the center brace seems to be "lightened" somewhat.




So my question is...

I do plan on puting in one of Engman's kits to stiffen the car, and more than likely a rollcage as well. Of course when doing that I would/should have bracing in to keep the doorgap measurments. Should I stop now and not do anymore cutting? I'm curious how much the floor factors in to the integrity of the car...

I would like something like these two by Chris Foley, or Tony at TC Design, but Chris is slammed with work, and Tony doesn't have a 914 around to measure from.




I know I will need these eventually, but do I need them NOW, and does anyone have some they would like to part with??? Any thoughts on this? I'd hate to stop my progress and put this on hold. I still havent gotten my welder, because I don't have my replacement panels. And there is no need to buy those until I upgrade the service in my house to 200 amp so that I can run a compressor AND a welder without making the wife and kids shut everything off in the house. Talk about "while i'm in there"

Why do you need door braces?

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ May 18 2005, 06:34 PM)

Why do you need door braces?

Well, everything i've read about welding in a cage, or Engman's long kit for instance, being careful about the door gaps shrinking as the welds cool. I *MAY* still go the rotisserie route. Undecided on that one.

Mainly, I was just concerned about the tub sagging if I cut out all the floors, then go weld in new pans.

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ May 18 2005, 07:34 PM)

Why do you need door braces?

I agree... those things are for LONG repairs, not the cross brace...

Brace the doors. Damn Andy jinxed me. I installed my engman kit on the passenger side first, then the back - checked panel gap and it was all good. No changes, I wasn't too worried about the passenger side as the rear quarter had been replaced with the stricker plate which was a few MM's too wide. Dropped the car down last night and I lost about 2mm at the door. I will have to get creative on how to push it out. Door closes just fine but it is tight enought for paint to touch on the inner door. Ugh! Live, learn and figure out how to unfix what I fixed before...

Kurt,

I would'nt worry about the tub during the floor replacement pieces. It will be fine.

First thing to do:

Take measurements on both sides and see where you are NOW prior to install.

The Engman kit install: I personally would take a few days to do this. Put the car on two stands placed on the frame rails directly under the "B" pillar. Place weight in the trunk (trannies/engine cases/dog/cat/small children) anything that will push down on the back of the car while it pivots on the jackstands. Then weld in the passenger side first (one day slowly) Then the drivers side slowly over a day's period, then the back piece. My thought on this is: I would rather have the passenger side shrink and have an issue than the drivers side.

Bottom Line: preload the chassis prior to welding however you choose.


B