I thought I'd start another thread being more specific...
I have too much travel in the arm (about 3/4").
Some of you mentioned bending the arm to decrease the travel and some suggested adding washers to shim up the pivot ball. It looks like the PO aready has a washer on the ball, unless there is one there form the factory. I'd be a little worried about pulling threads and having a leak, so I'm leaning towards bending the arm. Besides, I can't seem to get a socket on the ball/nut anyway. Is it 14mm? It is too recessed to get any "bite" with a socket. Socket walls are too thick.

The PP tech article says to check for flatness on the arm (oh well). Do I bend it "away" from the plastic cup side? Should I just lock it in a vise and give it a coupla whacks? What's the beat way to bend the arm?
Thanks for any suggestions/help.

Andy...

The ball is 14mm.

The real question here is: what is wrong ? Why do you need to do this ?

Is this a temp fix for a bigger issue ?


B

Thanks Brad...
I think I need to do this because the PO had the FW turned down?
I have too much travel in the arm (3/4"), trying to get to 1/2" like PP artical suggests.
Just trying to get it back together.
Andy...

Had a simular problem on a freinds car after replacing the clutch, couldn't get clutch to release. After pulling the tranny three times, i noticed there was no washer under the pivot ball, I recalled there was supposed to be a washer.

I would not bend the arm, I would rather add one or more washers to get the right travel.

To get at the ball pivot, you may need to make a thin wall socket, so go buy a spare socket and thin the end using a bench grinder, periodically dip it in a container of water to keep it from loosing its hardness, do not let it get so hot that you can not hold it in your hand. Once the wall is thin enough, you souyld be able to get the ball pivot out, use locktite when you re-install.

good luck

I've got two washers under my pivot.

I think they come with a washer under them, at least mine had one all ready. Use an existing washer off the tranny case as they are nice and flat. You can replace it with an ordinary washer. I also used a little bit of thread sealant on the threads when I screwed it back in.

My flywheel was turned down quite a bit by the way. Getting a socket on the ball took some time.

QUOTE (914zim @ May 18 2005, 08:46 PM)

What's the beat way to bend the arm?

put it in a table vice with the "fork" end facing down. have the top of the vice at about 1" above the cup for the pivot ball.

then, hit the top part of the arm with a BFH ...

make sure you bend the top part *away* from the side which has the hole for the pivot ball!
Andy

PS: if that's not clear, post a pic of the arm so i can edit it to show you ...

PPS: and i agree with the above, try another washer first and see how far that'll get you ...

QUOTE (RustyWa @ May 18 2005, 10:38 PM)

Getting a socket on the ball took some time.

we have a special socket at the shop. it has been ground down to have really thin walls to fit in there ...

Andy

Thanks again guys!
I'll make a trip to the HW store on my lunch break to get a 14mm socket and see if I can get someone here at work to grind it down.
I'll try that first as suggested, then move to bending the arm. I think I understand how and which way to bend it.

Gotta get to work before the boss gets in...

Andy...

Shim it. It is important to know how much is removed from your flywheel when you have it resurfaced.

Bending the fork arm is kinda of the crude way of doing it, adding washers under the ball pivot is the way to go, and likely would be the factory recommended way of dealing with resurfaced flywheels, (although I do not even know if there is a factory recommendation)

At a future time if you ever replace the flywheel with a new one, you could simply re-adjust the number of washers/shims, rather than bend the arm back again. Der Doctor Porsche would I think would not like his arm to be bent, but rather have the pivot ball position adjusted with different thickness of washer(s) (in my humble opinion) But I suppose either method would work

You can shim under the plastic cup too, if you're worried about running out of thread on the ball stud. You don't need that many threads though as it isn't a pull type clutch, the force is pushing the ball against the trans.

QUOTE (dmenche914 @ May 19 2005, 07:53 PM)

Der Doctor Porsche would I think would not like his arm to be bent

well, "Der Dr." maybe, but that other 914 Guru you guys are all sucking up to sure didn't have any problems with bending the fork.
in fact, that's where i first got the idea from ...

soooo, if you think i'm talking crazy-talk ( ) just replace my name with "The 914 God" and bow to the wisdom of "The one who knows it all" ...

Andy