Need some advice regarding a ’73 2.0 D-Jet FI car. My shop will be starting an engine rebuild within the next few weeks. Everything will remain stock. I recently ran into a hot start issue and haven’t driven the car since.

It will start no problem right now, but not sure if it will fire up again after the engine gets hot. Essentially, there was full power and you can hear the pump start, but there was no crank. I would like to take the car to the LA Concours next weekend, but don’t want to get stranded.

The 12V coil is corroded and several of the wires have e-tape on them so the PO has already been in there. The wires appear to require trimming back and resoldering the ends to the connectors. I just had it running and jiggled one of the wires to the coil and the car stalled instantly. I also feel that due to age that the coil should be replaced straight away.

I am not sure where the wires from the coil actually run to. Is that part of the ignition harness that runs back to the starter?

The starter is also quite old and leads me to believe that it should be replaced as well. Furthermore, there is more e-tape along the wire that runs to the starter as per the attached pics.

Just want to know if I should consider a rebuilt harness from our resident 914World expert if re soldering the connectors and coil/starter replacement will take care of these issues.

Obviously, the goal is to have a clean and reliable running car upon completion. Please advise. Thanks.


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Regarding the hot start issue, that's maybe the most common problem with these cars (second only to rust). Super easy fix. Use Mark Henry's instructions in the link below. Good chance you don't need a new starter...just a 10 buck Ford solenoid.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;mode=threaded

As for a new ignition harness...Is the insulation on the existing wires brittle? If so, I'd definitely replace. If it's still pliable, you should have no trouble re-using it...that is, if you have the time and patience to refurbish it and make sure all connectors are solid. A new alternator harness is a good idea if your existing one is patched to hell.

If you're looking for greater reliability, I'd consider a pertronix ignition module to replace the points...and the matching 3 ohm flame thrower coil. Of course, the debate rages on whether electronic ignition is an "upgrade".

Good luck!

My experiences (240Z) with the Flamethrower coil were not good. Failed completely after 2 years. I'd use a Crane PS20 instead.

Yes: a new harness will eliminate any hidden electrical problems. The connectors will be firmly attached. And, you will have eliminated the wiring in future problems. Plus you will have pice-of-mind....

I would spend the money and get a 123 distributor for a D Jet setup. Eliminate the trigger points as well as the regular points within the distributor.

Definitely get a new ignition harness, and if you are keeping the FI get the harness for that too. I know it's easy for me to spend your money, but it will eliminate a bunch of possible trouble.

If you can afford it, the 123 Ignition is the best way to go right now for distributors, but $470 on top of $700 for two new harnesses is a pretty good hit, but if you've got the budget for it, go for it!

http://123ignitionusa.com/porsche-912-914-...ncludes-spacer/

Thanks to all for the input. Can someone explain exactly how the 123 ignition solves the problem? Mark Henry's thread for the Ford Solenoid solution makes sense. Just curious as to what the 123 actually does in place of the Bosch unit.

I will have the opportunity to better verify the ignition and FI harnesses once the motor comes out. If the wires do not seem brittle and dry, I will look at the cost of just redoing and cleaning the connections. However the labor can easily creep up to the price of a replacement ignition harness so I'll need to look at that.

I was fortunate enough to pick up a spare ECU and FI harness back in May that seems to be in good shape so hopefully I can avoid having to buy a rebuilt FI harness.

It's mechanically new, and the electronics are all solid-state. None of the electrical/mechanical interfaces (e.g., points) that wear and go out of adjustment.

And I believe the advance curve is very adjustable.

--DD

The new wiring harness should solve your starting issue. The new distributor and FI harness will make your car reliable

When you see e-tape on a 40 year old harness, that's a clue.

Appreciate, everyone's input. Final verdict is that Jeff will build a new ignition harness and evaluate the condition of my primary and spare FI harness to see what may be required on those.

I figure the money that needs to be spent to trouble shoot the ignition components and cleaning up the old harness will more than pay for a new one.

You probably want to get a new boot for the battery/alternator wire at the starter. They are about $9

Looks like its already included with the harness as per the photo.

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The one in the pic is the boot for the reverse light switch, (P# 914.613.491.00), you need P#999.659.006.50

It's not a deal breaker, but it helps keep the wires clean.

Hi Perry, (7T3)

That boot you mention is HUGE, its not on the alternator harness or ignition harness, it should be on the battery+ cable as the OP shows in the first post above. Even then...did I mention its HUGE? Its HUGE, too big even for our stock battery cables to my eye. I have not seen even concours 914 even have them.

PS that photo posted is of the 1972-only version ignition harness, the 1973-76 version does not have the green/black wires and double connector for the heater fan.