Hello guys,
I've just imported this 914 from the US in France.
See pictures below.

It came with a 1971 911 2.2T on Webers, but the car never really worked or rolled when I got it : many issues everywhere.

The wire loom would have to be remade, likely from the ground up, but that could wait a little, since it's working as is.

I sorted out some wire issues with headlights, gas leaks on webers and then looked at the oil network, which did not look that correct.

First, there is the tank which is a modified 911 that went in left fender likely with a hammer or foot kicks, bending the fender and making it almost impossible to remove. I eventually did, but that was a pain. The fender suffered again and has now to be rectified.

I have several questions :

1. The oil cooler still is from the 911, so with an in-line intake connector, which implies a 90° adapter hose that stays very close to the left rear trailing arm. Frightening, but looks ok.

This cooler is pretty expensive, does the OEM 911 oil cooler could be modified to get the inlet with 90 degrees, as the 914-6 cooler is ?


2. There was no way to drain the oil except from the strainer plate's draining screw or unfitting a hose. As the PMS or OEM 914-6 oil tank doesn't have a drain screw either, how are you supposed to drain oil with this setup ? Add a T connector to the input cooler hose ?


3. The in and out hoses, and breather hoses were apparently correctly fitted, even though they went all strange ways. It was custom hoses and I wonder if I could use the standard return 2.7 oil pipe : 93010774111, then add a small hose to connect to the tank.
https://www.rosepassion.com/en/cat/porsche-...oil-pipe/P30394


4. is it normal that all oil from tank fall down in engine cases when car is parked ? Does it fall down likewise on 911 ?


Would love to see picture of your setups or links to built reports.


Thank you for your feedback !!
Emmanuel

Just sending a pm on oil tanks but most tanks do not have a drain. I can add a drain fitting to my tanks for $60 . you then just use a standard 911 oil sump, and oil tank drain plug.

And done properly no 911 engine should really leak. Some will leak a little over the years but I personally have been successful to reseal engines with little to no leaking..

Thanks for your answers.

Actually I wasn't speaking of oil leaks FROM engine cases, but of oil draining down from the tank IN the engine cases.

When I removed the drain bolt, I was surprised to see almost all the oil come through. I thought most of the oil would stay in the tank and that I'd have to remove the inlet hose to drain it.

I have a 911 964 and I always drain the oil tank before opening the engine case draining bolt, so I was confused.

I agree on no oil drain and as a standard when I make tanks I don't do the drain option only becuase the factory didn't.. On my car the tank is one with a drain. Just easier and less mess..

As for oil draining from tank that is normal if the car sits allot.. The oil will find its way through the pump into the engine. On a car used daily less oil tends to drain and sit in the sump.

Ok, I get it.

And what about my other questions ?

The factory -6 actually has a two piece hose from the oil tank to the oil cooler fitting, with a connection at the 'hook' that holds it up. You simply disconnect this connection to drain the oil easily ( use 32 and 36 mm open end wrenches). Just be sure to have a large enough container to fold all the oil! I imagine that you could install a T shaped fitting if you use AN sized hose to allow you to not have to disconnect the hose if desired or have a drain fitting added to the tank. The hose disconnect works quite well however.

The original 911 cooler can be easily modified to have a bend in the tube to accommodate the 914-6 by someone that can weld. If you weren't in France, I'd say send it to Ben (MB911).

The cooler can be modified with a 90 degree fitting, it is done pretty routinely. If you have a hose that is working, you are probably fine.

It is fairly common on a stock six to modify the coupling fitting between the oil tank hose and oil cooler hose by drilling it and tapping it for an M6 bolt that will serve as an oil tank drain. Since it is impossible to know what your hose configuration is, it is impossible to know whether you can do this on your setup.

I do not believe that the stock 911 scavenge hard line is a very good one to use on a six because it turns the return fitting away from the tank. It is possible to put an AN adapter in the scavenge out port on the engine and run a flexible braided AN line back to the tank.

As Ben said, the only thing between the oil tank and the engine sump is the oil pump. The oil level in the tank is higher than the sump. Oil will seep through the pump into the cases when the engine is not running. In your case, the tank shape may hold the oil even higher than a regular 6 tank, making this a bigger problem than normal.

Good luck sorting this out. I Do not know too much about the configuration of the 911 oil tank (and I think there are various configurations) but the 911 tanks are not commonly used on 914's. If it were a good idea, I suspect you would see them more often.

,wow someone fitted a 911 oil tank to a 914...never thought it could be done,sorry you had to find this because it not the best solution .
The correct suction hose from the tank is a 2 piece part as mentioned you will need a fitting in between to drain your oil as NO 914/6 tank has a drain fitting like the 911 tank has.
Click to view attachment
This fitting can be undone to drain oil or you can fit a drain into it as mentioned.
Yes you will have a lot of oil in the engine crankcase as it drains back from the tank when the engine is not running,you have a 2 stage oil pump suction (scavenge) and pressured oil supply to the rest of the engine.
I would suggest you talk more with Ben (mb911) and get one of his tanks and filler elbows as they are currently the best one to buy and he makes a great product.
I suggest you get your hose and fitting from Elephant Racing they have all you will need,otherwise you will most likely find Cohline fittings/hose in your part of the world.

Thanks everyone for your answers.
It gets much clearer now.


I just found a second hand solid return oil pipe, so I'll see if can be fitted with the custom exhaust headers that are currently on engine.
If it works, I'll go to my local Gas and Oil hoses manufacturer to check what he can provide to fit this one and make the 2nd part of hose.

I think the 911 oil tank could be an option but you'd need to cut the back away and weld another thinner back.
The drain bolt would not be of much use since it would stay where you can't access it anyway.

You would then have to cut open the left wall to access all fittings, which job was very poorly done by previous owner on my car.
It's such a mess that I'm quite ashamed of it and would not picture that !


I'll need a good welder to hide it with a nice steel plate before fitting mb911's or OEM's oil tank.

Modifying the oil cooler is a good option but I'm not decided yet if I'll leave this engine in or if I'll put a 3.2 that lies on a shelf in parts. In that case I guess I'd have to add a front cooler anyway.

That makes me think of fitting a front oil cooler right now and remove the current 2.2T oil cooler. It's a pretty rare and expensive part by itself, so modifying it would not be such a good idea.

I'll update this post with evolutions.
Again, thank you everyone, I appreciate your input !

My personal opinion is keep the factory (914/6 modified) oil cooler even if you do run a front cooler, Paris, France climate and a 2.2 you should be able to get away without the front cooler.
One of Bens (mb911) tanks would be the best solution. I'd only use a factory tank if your 914 is a real 914/6 or you got a really good deal. Ben's tank is aluminum, the factory tanks are a painted, copper plated steel and used tanks are prone to rust issues. Ben's tank fits just like a factory tank.

Show us a picture of the mess the 911 tank left, that's what this site is about, helping members fix their 914's and do it right.
Don't worry, I guarantee we've seen worse.

If the inner fender/firewall tank area is damaged, I wouldn't just weld in a regular sheet of steel, even if it's a /4 it has special indents for the factory tank.
This is the time to do the repair correctly.
Put a ad in the classifieds, someone will have the correct panel cut from a donor car. Since even the /4 had the tank indents it's a common part.

Pictures of the current oil tank and fittings will help us to help you.

As to tanks I can absolutely garentee that you won't find a tank cheaper and the best part is it fits correctly. I will even consider offering to you near 9/14 sale price just so you have something correct..

Share pictures and we will get you set up.

Just for reference, here is a picture of the bottom of a factory tank and hose and the factory 6 oil cooler and hose.
Click to view attachment

Oil cooler delete and T fitting. I will safety wire the cap.

It's a 1974 2.0 or 1.8, I actually don't know and the previous owner did not either.

It is likely a 1.8 because there are no sway bars. That's another issue BTW, I really want to install some and it'll have to be customed.

@mepstein : two birds in one stone, I like that ! I'll feel safer with the feeding hose staying with more clearance from the trailing arm.
Who makes that bypass plate ?

@mb911 : I will post some pictures, but I have none so far (too depressing) and I won't go back to the workshop before a few days. Thanks for your offer : any discount would be MUCH appreciated !! I'll try to keep a low budget on the project, if that is even possible...


Anyway, it's a very exciting project. I wasn't expecting so much work, though, because I have another project on it's way : a custom EFI conversion for the 3.0 powered 2.7 wide body which is on the picture above. I'll report on that as soon as I have received all parts.

Not definitive. Mine was a 2.0 appearance group car without swaybars...

OK. Thanks.
Anyway, now it's a 2.0 since that is how I described it when I filled the form to register it in France !

Sway bar fronts are easy, we have members that make the weld in body mount and the tabs for the A-arms if needed, as many non-swaybar cars have the A-arm tabs.
If you do a search there's a pattern as to where to mount it.

Rear sway bars also require some minor welding for the mount, but many do not like a rear swaybar.

I see.
Thanks for the feedback !