New member, long time lurker here. I'll be posting another 914-6 conversion project shortly, but posting a thanks for now for all the great info I've come across here.

I took the easy way into 914-6 ownership - I bought a completed car that was a track car whose PO had done the hard work. This car has a 3.2L engine, injected, with large riveted composite flares, and a pretty austere race-friendly interior with racing seats, roll cage, and little else - not even side windows or carpeting or panels. This car I refer to as the Outlaw - it's a middle finger to the purists and I absolutely love it.

But...I wanted a clean and pretty "cars and coffee" version. There's not a ton of value restoring the Outlaw. The Outlaw's body is fine, but it is purposely built.

I had bought a project from a local Porschephile who had too many nice projects (356, pre-73 911). his goal was originally to do a big Raby 4. He had stripped, prepped, and beautifully painted a really nice shell, and spent a small fortune getting the original bumpers and details correct. He had a set of mint Fuchs 14" wheels, bits and pieces from 2 interiors, and was really only missing the engine and some trim/interior bits. A deal was struck, trailer was hitched, boxes moved, and now it's my problem.

The conversion wisdom here seems to be to go big - 3.0l or more. But I have a big engine car. This is intended to be just a Sunday cruiser, no track time. Plus, I have access to perfectly nice prepped 2.7L that has case guards installed, a 911s cam, and the work mostly done, for a decent price, and it would sound just swell with PMOs. So I am heading this route. I am taking my time with the Pretty Car - not going to be concours but a great looking driver with super clean details, no flares, and more along the lines of an original -6 with a bit more oomph. I'll detail the suspension bits so it looks pretty on a lift, and I need to think through the oil cooling issues - it doesn't get super hot in the PNW but for a few days a year, and if I can avoid the expense of a front mounted cooler and running lines that would be just swell.

At least that's my current plan. We'll see where my budget leads. I have a good start - great primed and painted rust free shell, all the expensive body work complete, an engine lined up, and a clear vision of where I want to go.

Looking forward to the collective input and experience when I get started this winter.

As you already know, there is a whole pile of help available here.

Oh yeah...

The 2.7 is a great engine for your conversion. Mine puts out 199 hp at the rear wheels, so no lack of grunt and a lighter, free revving engine. Sounds like yours has the right components to make it a good reliable engine.

However, figure on putting in a front oil cooler to properly cool anything larger than 2.4 liters.

I run my 3.0 with just the cooler on the engine. Works fine so far.

What part of the PNW are you in?

Just up the road from you near Issaquah.

I hear differing thoughts on the oil cooler. I snagged a vellios 2 piece tank on eBay before deciding I may not need it. Also scored all the gauges for a true 914-6 cockpit, including a tach! Bypassing the cooler will save bucks! I still need various interior trim pieces.

Pix of both to follow shortly.

There are a few of us here who have just crossed that happy bridge into /6 power. Read a few threads, look at some of the pics of what can be done, and......

Try it without the cooler and add it if things get warm. Some engines run hotter than others.

Here is the Outlaw:











And here is the Pretty Car project:

Very nice let me know if I can help. Check out my 914-6 conversion thread if you need to feel good about your starting point.. Miles ahead of mine.. But along the way I developed 1-5/8" heat exchangers and oil tanks so I think I have an excuse

I love coming home to packages.

The Pretty Car came without gauges. Two weeks on eBay and I was able to separately source a 2 piece oil/fuel gauge, 150mph Speedo, and a 914-6 Tech that was new old stock, plus the bezel holding them all. Crossing my fingers the gauges don't require restoration.

Welcome Dave,
Where in the PNW are ya?
You may find Cary at Middlemotor a good resource as well as there are a few others I can point you at, Looking forward to seeing the project come together.

Looks like a very worth chassis. I do engine harnesses for 6 conversions so let me know if I can help with that.

I've done a few 6 conversions, so hit me up any time for free advice.

Good to know.

Thanks Perry and Mikey. I am just outside of Seattle.

Here's where I am thinking about general gameplan - first by starting with a list of what I have and what I will need at various stages:

1. Get a working roller. This entails pulling the suspension bits off the body (they are just there for rolling the body). Take the 911 S front end suspension I got with the project and clean it up, same with the rears (trying to locate two rear 5 lug hubs - either aftermarket or if I can source a 911 rear). Nail down steering rack. Take those pieces and get them powder-coated/plated. Probably will stick with stock shocks/struts and not pursue coil overs. Clean and powdercoat fuel tank.

2. Simultaneously, work on getting the 2.7L ready. It needs top end work, and ditch the CIS for a set of PMOs tweaked to match the engine (it has an S cam).

3. Figure out the oil cooling system. I have a 2 part Vellios tank I got off ebay, but thinking to buck up for the Pelican tank or something similar. I need a complete system - lines, fittings, etc. Will hold off on a front oil cooler - for the drives and climate in the PNW, not sure it's worth the extra $$$.

4. Assemble the roller - suspension - steering - brake - pedal bits. Basically, a true roller. Install power train and connect fuel/oil/brake lines. Finish electrical wiring. Essentially, get a running roller with only interior to finish.

5. Finish interior/trim/glass/rubber. I'll need a new dash top, reupholster stock seats (tartan plaid inserts maybe!), and finish interior with RS style interior - new RS door panels, grey carpet, many misc. bits. Glass and trim finished too. I think I need lots of rubber.

6. Watch as this project sucks all my free cash, but smile when it's done!

The 2 piece tanks off ebay take some specialty tools. I have a few tanks I bought off folks who gave up on them and traded them in on my completed tanks. Plus they are really heavy.

I will have to look at pelican as they are supposed to be carrying my tanks now as well.

I may need to chat. Oil tank is on the short list. I am starting from ground zero on the oil tank and fittings. No front cooler at this point. Heat exchangers I need to revisit as part of the exhaust review - not sure what the 2.7 comes with. It gets cold in the PNW and windshields fog up, so heat is a necessity.

.....WELCOME!

I make both oil tanks and heatexchangers..

I actually listed a few oil tanks in the classifieds at a really good discount because I have a few too many in stock right now..

Looks like you got two nice cars there. Way to jump into the pool. Lots of great information on this site that you can take advantage of.

You will need to do some finagling with the drive axles if you use 911 hubs. The spline count is different on the stub axles than on the 914.

Ping the folks at PMB Performance. They should have all the stuff you need. Most especially all of your brake needs.

--DD

The first few weeks into this project and I feel like a Costco customer who forgot to eat before he went shopping. Everything looked great, but without a plan, I'd be walking out with a shopping cart full of odds and sods - 5lb pecans, ramen, patio furniture, and a vegamatic.

So I've regrouped and decided to plan and attack this a bit more methodically. Basically - I have a mint body that needs now to be completely reassembled with all the 914 bits, and I have boxes and bins of stuff not tagged or organized, in varying degrees of restored state. Most everything needs to be cleaned, coated zinc or whatever), organized and identified, and installed in the most efficient order.

Suggestions appreciated (and thanks to mb111 for some great insights and advice). Here is the plan (in some order):

1. Body is back from the painter without any parts except headlight assembly and suspension bits to make a roller. Now is the time to nail down:

A. Internal brake lines (replace with new stainless) and Master Cylinder (19MM upgrade) - PMB is the likely source.

B. Internal Fuel lines (stainless - PMB?)

C. Oil tank - covered thanks to Ben!

2. Suspension. The car has front control arms/towers/hubs on it, and rear arms and hubs, but just enough to wheel around (no steering rack or sway bar installed). I have a separate 911 front end that I will tear down, clean/blast, and powdercoat the front control arms and rear arms, and replace various bushings. Source front struts, rear shocks. Obtain new axle shafts (PMB?) I have front 5 lug hubs , but need to deal with rears (probably drill the existing hubs/rotors - maybe PMB or Patrick).

3. Brakes - get front and rear caliper rebuilds from PMB, misc. braided lines. Replaced reservoir. Tear down, blast, powdercoat and reassemble pedal assembly. Source any replacement eBrake cables.

4. Engine. Having a 2.7 rebuilt by a mechanic friend working with a known builder, who will replace crank, rebuild top end and tweak 911s cam, and distributor. Source engine sheet metal, add PMOs. Basically get a working engine together. Already have the flywheel and 11 blade fan, need to source ignition. Likely to add mb111's stainless headers/heat exchanges and exhaust.

5. Driveline - Pretty sure I have a sideshift 901 but address any bushings/linkage.

6. Electrical - I think I need a fusebox - wiring harness looks to be complete. Lights good, windshield wiper motors need to be installed, possibly some work on gauges (Palo Alto or Hollywood Speed).

I am leaving cosmetics (trim, interior, rubber, glass, door mechanisms) alone for now until I get driveable runner, and will tackle that last. Here are some misc. bits I will need later:

1. Mirrors (right and left)
2. RS style door panels
3. Dash top (or custom)
4. basket weave
5. stock radio
6. bar to mount 4 point harness (not doing a full roll cage)
7. Carpet
8. Steering wheel (Proto Tipo), and turn signal switches.
9. Various dash, door, roof trim pieces - I have bits and pieces from 2 interiors - early and late model. The body is a 71 but I've got 2 seats from a later model and the passenger half-seat from an earlier model so I'd like to figure out that part. I might be later tempted to do GT style seats and carpeted panel instead of the original rear seat back, but again, I'll figure that out when the car is a runner.

The good news - a lift gets installed in my shop next week!

Dave sounds like a good list.. If Eric@pmb can't do rear rotors and hubs for you then try bruce stone or a914guy@aol.com.. Last stop is me as I have a fixture and can do this but these other guys should be 1st stops..


I can also make you engine sheet metal if you have no other alternatives..

Get the engine started. Work on everything else after in engine is on being worked on. Did you have a plan for the engine mount? I don't remember you saying anything about it

Ok, the engine is getting started - it will be happening in parallel (by a builder friend, not me). Got sorted with a full 911 SC front end, and had the front and rear suspension pieces pulled, stripped, cleaned, and sent off to be powder coated. They should be back next week for a complete R&R. I am thinking of using the Patrick motor mount, but I need to also check to see that Ben (MB111)'s heat exchangers won't block portions of the mount. Panel Billy, would love to see yours. PM me if you are able - I'm just up Hwy 18 from you.

Sorted out the misc bits, and will be ringing PMB for lines, master, and rebuilding the front and rear calipers.

Lift delivered and installed today. It's a massive Benpak 14XL 4 poster - I would have preferred a smaller lift but I also have a large crew cab Cummins diesel long bed to lift that is way too big to put on a 9k lift (plus my concrete floors are only about 6 inches, rebar, but not enough for a 2post lift).

At 22 ft long. it consumes almost the full width of my 30x50 ft shop:



To get cars off the ramp, I added a cool 7k lb air powered scissor lift - the lift slides in the middle between the ramps and when weighted, it locks down into place. I added a flat metal cross member that also slides and will hold floor jacks/bottle jacks (it's the black panel by the ramps), so I just lift the car, place the jack stands, and then lift the other end. You can add two lifts and link them via an air hose kit to lift the entire car off the ramps - I will probably add another air lift but wanted to try it out first. The middle box is a 15 gallon capacity oil tray for doing oil and transmission fluid changes.



The ramps are like 20 feet long - I can almost place 2 914's on the lift! It's total overkill.



I was thinking about installing it myself but at 2600lbs shipped, I figured I'd bite the bullet, pay for the install, and save my back. It was the best money I've spent in a while.

Here's a question - air compressors? I am needing something more than my tiny pumpkin compressor to handle both the air jacks, the lift, and likely a bench top blasting cabinet. Probably won't be doing any painting. Will run air tools as well as an air powered tire changer. I can run on 220 lines and have a dedicated shop panel.

I was looking at a Quincy QT5 a 2 stage 80 gallon model - it seems to fit the bill but has one drawback - only rated at 17.5 CFM. The next model up is 23CFM and considerably bigger heavier, requires an 80 amp circuit, and costs a bunch more. Even the QT5 is pretty heavy, but it's way closer to my budget.

Opinions? If it weren't for the sandblasting, the QT5 would be perfect.

I'm partial to the Patrick motor mount, and I would recommend the AppBiz (on eBay) door panels if you want RS style, they do really nice stuff.

Not many good tire choices for 14" Fuchs, btw.

914 Rubber for dash top and, etc, etc, etc.......

My heat exchangers are dimensionally the same as the oem so there. Would be no reason the PMS mount would cause any issues..

Thanks for the tip on the door panels. I am looking at something like this:



The guy locally who is doing the suspension build is working on one of the most amazing GT tributes I've seen - based on a real -6 body. I am leaning towards this look for the interior - very subdued and tasteful - even though I don't have this customer's budget.



The rest of the car is fantastic! Real, unobtanium oil tank/cooler lines etc used, no expense spared. The car will be phenomenal when done. Wish I had the budget.





I hear you on the limitations of tires for the 14" Fuchs. Again, I have an outlaw 914-6 conversion with the 3.2L and it is running 9" & 8" knock-off Fuchs with Toyo tires that have amazing grip. But for this build, I really want a stock looking sleeper car - and it's not being built to autocross but just as a clean Sunday driver.

Looks like Bernie's work

Looking great.

You guessed it, my project is “feeling the Bern.” He’s a pretty awesome builder. The 911S he did for the prior owner of my project was gorgeous!

Thanks for the info on the exchangers, glad to know they will work.

Ben’s exchangers and oil tanks will fit right in without issues. Beautiful pieces and nicer than the Vellios parts, though I give George Vellios a lot of credit for trying all the neat things he did. I wish I would have kept his catalog of things he had available back in the day.

Good parts day today! Ben’s oil tank arrived (nifty!!) and the suspension bits are back from the powder coater. Found a nice gas tank too, the original was not so pristine inside.

The killer score was a mint pair of Webers and a new set of 2.7 RS pistons for the engine rebuild. It hurt to write the check but happy I am moving forward. About 3 weeks out from a true steerable runner with a complete suspension.

Panel Billy was a prince and showed up in his sweet 3.0 and we went out for a short ride. His conversion looks and sounds wonderful - those PMOs are intoxicating.

Headed to CA soon to check out my engine and put some miles on the Outlaw car. I need the inspiration to see this through. Plus the dollars : I put the Z4M coupe on the block. A wonderful and rare car but not a Porsche.

Thats great news.. I was able to find someone now to bend the GT oil lines if you decide to go that route..

Ben, Are those going to be similar to the Elephant Racing lines?

I’m in Graham a little south of you. If you need a hand or help with something let me know. I would love to drop by to meet you or help.

Yes but allot cheaper.. Probably going with steel though..

Yes, I see this in another thread. I don't mean to be redundant.
Looking forward to the outcome.

Got a bunch of goodie boxes from PMB today! Calipers, brake lines, and a master cylinder. Excited to get underway with installing the suspension, steering and brake bits and finishing the steerable roller!

Headed down to SoCal soon to inspect the long block.

I live literally live across the river from Bernie and have been watching this phenomenal build from the get-go. His attention to detail is extraordinary and build quality can’t be bested. The car is getting close to delivery. Am hoping to ride shotgun on one of the shake down runs.

Bernie, worked tirelessly getting my 73 S back to factory condition on all the mechanicals prior to sale and made it run and look factory new. He also did the 3.0 conversion on my teener using as many genuine 6 parts as he had stashed away (tin work, oil tank and plumbing, heat exchangers and on and on. Added a front GT oil cooler but through magic and trickery managed to keep the front end looking stock. When done, he declared the car a “torque monster” and I couldn’t agree more.

Any work done to Bernie standards will be work well done.

I went to SoCal and had a chance to play with my black Outlaw 914 for a few days to get more inspiration for the current project. I drove with members of the SoCal RGruppe who had on hand about 50 various cool Porsche 911s and 912's. My friend with the 3.6 conversion and I were the only 914's on hand.







I love this car - especially the attitude. Driving through the ritzier parts of Palm Springs, it was like an upraised middle finger to all the Aston Martins, Bentleys, Ferraris and such. My favorite part was pulling up to a super fancy country club and having the car snort, rip, and smoke (yes, I discovered I need a top end job finally).



We had a great drive with the RGruppe folks and then peeled off yesterday for some quicker runs up in the mountains.





I closed the deal on the 2.7 and will have that shipped back for a rebuild, using 2.7RS pistons, Solex cams, and decided we will do the oil cooler in front. I check out Rick's 3.0 which uses the same cooler setup and it's really stealth, just a bit of the front bumper and valance rolled back slightly to increase the gap and that is plenty for cooling.

Got home and my new stainless fuel lines were waiting for me. Can't wait to get busy!

It's been raining parts lately - Appbiz sent over a set of RS door panels, and bits of stuff has been trickling in from 914rubber's black Friday sale.

I finally got the bushings and bars from Elephant racing, the stainless brake lines from PMB, and the fuel lines from Tangerine. The front and rear suspension is now ready for install as we got the powdercoated front bits back, and mated to a set of Bilsteins. These go on this week:

Awesome.. You should have heat exchangers by now and muffler this week. Here is a picture of your heat exchangers mounted on my engine..Click to view attachment

Woohoo!! I finally have a roller!

Front and rear suspension installed and looking great with the PMB brakes! I need to do the POR15 a bit better though as there are some bare spots.



Note the shiny new brake lines!



Bolted on the 14" fuchs - geez they are small! I'll live with them a while before looking at 15"s:



Before and after:





One odd thing - I was missing the guard for the front of the A-arm on the passenger site. Anyone have a spare? Here's the part:





As I post this, headed down to SoCal to pick up the 2.7. Ben's exhaust bits are in the shop waiting an engine, along with Rich Johnson's motor mounts and throttle linkage kit. Fingers crossed the engine doesn't need too much work before assembly.

I've decided to drill the heads for a twin plug arrangement too.

The cooler issue some are rabid about it, but you have to remember that they're often the southern boys who run their cars in some serious heat and bumper to bumper traffic. Or they're racers running high RPM constantly.
In cooler climates you may be able to run just a stock cooler. So it depends and you won't know till you get it on the road. My conversion is a mid/hi performance carbed 3.0, so far my temps seem normal, but it's a fresh build with only a month driving time and I haven't pushed it real hard yet.

Long time since I last updated. I brought the 2.7 home and my engine builder looked it over. It needs...lots of machining. Sending off to Ollie's next week for about $3k in machine work - shuffle pin, oil return and other stuff for the case, port and machine heads, valves, guides, for the heads, media tumble etc. I have the case certs and studs, so I did manage to save some $$. Also, the cylinders were Mahles in mint shape, ready for a new set of RS pistons.

Decided now is the time to go Twin Plug. I am having the heads drilled to accommodate a twin plug and trying to steel myself for the significant extra costs of adding a distributor, CDI boxes, and the wiring and bits. I might go single plug to start if my budget doesn't allow, but how much more cool to launch as a twin plug!

While the engine is being rebuilt, I need to source some engine tins, and hoping Ben comes through on the cast oil lines!

I located the spare part depicted above, and managed to score a brand new Engleman and Jwest fuseboxes to upgrade. Leaning towards the Engleman simply because it looks better.

I also said goodbye to the Z4M Coupe which is being consigned for sale to finance completion of this build. I think I made the right choice but will likely add the Z4M to the list of cars I wish I still had. I don't plan on making that mistake with the 914 however....

The Engleman had an issue with shorting to the chassis. Just make sure that is worked out before you power up the car.

Off topic but I have a buddy looking for a Z4M Coupe! I'll PM you for details.
Chris

Hmmm, thanks for this info. Was there a specific fix? I did find the following discussion on another old thread:

"The "Y" splitters can touch the metal fuse panel frame when bolted in place. Mine were very tight after the Engman/JWest upgrade. I had to loosen the factory wrap on the harness to allow for extra wire movement above the panel. Shrink tubing on the bare brass bits will help also.

NOTE: The constant power to the fuse panel and ignition switch is UN-FUSED at the battery. If you short the large red wires to ground/earth, the wire will melt everything from the battery to the short. It may cause a fire. Add 4 inline fuses at the battery 20 amps will due for each.

Now that you have modified the electrical system with the new fuse panel, this is an important issue for you. 40 years ago when the 914 rolled off the assembly line, the unfused wires were not a big deal. 40 years later, old insulation, previous owners, radio installs, hacked wiring, etc... Your electrical system is at risk."