Big adventure for me. Have never done this before by myself. Taking the engine out of my 70 914-6.

I got everything, I think, disconnected and/or removed today -- except the half shafts. My memory is failing me. 5-10 years ago, I bought and installed bolts that were drilled for safety wires, which I did. Now I can't remember if they were 6mm Allen, which seems to fit if I can get it squarely in, or was there a spline fitting? I found a single spline thing with my Allen sockets that is just about the same size, perhaps 8. Something tells me it might have been purchased for those bolts. I can get the 6mm in there, but I am not sure that is it and I don't want to round the inside of the fastener. The spline thing may be too big or I may not have it square. Scared to pound it in.

The bolts are tight. Aren't they always? They got a dose of pbBlaster for the night. I'll finish this tomorrow, I hope.

Are the OEM bolts 6mm? Did anyone here install the drilled bolts and can you tell me, Allen or spline? What size? Any tricks getting them loose? A universal with an extension? (I just have headers) Use an impact wrench? I must have done this part of the job before, but the memory thing . . .

I seem to recall torque wrenching them, too. What should they be torqued to?

Thanks in advance.

Stock 914 4 and 6 CV bolts are 12 point triple square allen, so you need to clean them off and get a close look. If you use a 6 point allen you'll strip them.

I clean them really good and tap them in the socket before leaning on them. If you don't seat it in the socket, you can strip it.

I used an extension (no universal) to get the socket wrench out past my heat exchangers. I have a -4 though. And mine came loose quite easily.

Stock is M8 "triple square". Allen-head (internal hex) is a common-ish aftermarket replacement.

Clean out the heads with brake cleaner or similar and inspect. It should be reasonably obvious if the heads are hex or triple-square.

--DD

If you used 911 cv’s, they are 6mm

These only get torqued to 18.4 ft.lbs, so they shouldn't be too tough to get out.

Get the right bit, or you'll have troubles. It's fun to grind one off under the car, ask me how I know.

Thanks guys. I'll try to inspect them more closely. What I called a spline socket may be a triple square and it does have an 8 on it.

Also, you need new schnoor washers everytime you torque the CV bolts

Like Totally
Whole secret to these bolts, the right bit and clean out all the crap in the hole.

First time I loosened my driveshafts on the 914 I WD-40'd the heads of the screws and then blew them clean with compressed air. Easy to tap the XZN bit home with a small hamer after that.

These only get torqued to 18.4 ft.lbs, so they shouldn't be too tough to get out.

Hmmmm. I thought it was 31 ft lb's.

8mm =31 ft/lb
10mm =55 ft/lb

It's a special hardness bolt.

If you've only torqued them to 18.4 Lawrence, you need to cinch them puppies up a bit.

Thanks for all the input. Last night I confirmed they are Allen, not triple square. They came out easily with a 6mm Allen on a socket and extension and with the tap of a hammer and a big screw driver the half shafts are out of the way.

Hope to drop the engine after work today.

Some of the ones that were drilled for safety wire were allen bolts, not the triple square type. Aftermarket- I think a 914 world member sold them here.

If the bolts are drilled for safety wire, they likely are NOT stock and NOT a triple square. They will likely be a metric hex pattern allen.

Get a set of allen wrenches for a ratchet wrench. Clean the goop out of the socket and test fit.

Like everyone else said, use the right tool. Removing these things after they have stripped isn't any fun. I keep the CV bolt that I had to weld the allen tool to for extraction at my desk at work as a reminder that cutting corners doesn't pay in the long run.

Zach

Oops, yes, 31 ft.lbs.

I did torque mine correctly.

Wow this is a great thread and extremely timely for my build thanks for all the info it really comes in handy. Should be putting back together tomorrow. Sure helps to poke around here

I hate getting the bolts on the trailing arm side off due to no visibility.
My practice now is to remove the big bolt on the stub axle. Sure it takes a breaker bar and a cheater bar, but it once you do it the first time its not half bad. Saves about 30 minutes of struggling. I keep a spare CV bolted to a stub axle for quick replacement on track.

High tensile 12.9 from memory,I snuck mine up to 32ft/lbs ,they can take it no problem.
Make sure the joining faces are nice and clean,I didn't use gaskets as I didn't have them ...ok so far.

This is what came with mine. Trans was out so assuming these are correct?

Click to view attachment

I don't have gaskets and was suppose to get them today but have not heard from the guy. Anybody else run without gaskets? Essential or not?

by request here's my .02
You definitely need gaskets. No gasket will mean grease everywhere. I"ve never put them in without, ever. Make sure that the gasket is seated in it's recess before you start tightening the bolts.

The bolts you've shown look serviceable, but the pic is slightly blurry, just make sure the points are nice and crisp and nothing is rounded out.

Always use new schnoor washers, they are a one and done piece, so always get at least twice what you need in the event you've got to take them off.

There is a high quality re-useable locking fastener that later 911 guys are using, but they are over $10 each, but I've never had one in my hand. Stage8 makes some with a retainer and snap ring, but I'd only go to that trouble or safety wiring for a race car.

What I do is put it all together finger tight, without the schnoor washers, and then individually take off each bolt, clean it and the threaded holes, put the washer on and barely snug it until I get all 4 done that way.

I like to incrementally tighten them up in a crosswise pattern, until you get to the 31ft lb (min) spec. I think Sir Eric goes with 35 ft lb, 4 more ft lb isn't going to snap those 12.8 bolts.

Guys have gone to great lengths to make sure the bolts stay put, including loctite, drilling and safety wire, but I've had no problems when I've done it like this.

Never used them as mentioned,if the face's are clean,how the hell is grease getting out of there,735kms of illegal driving since conversion and no grease coming out anywhere .

I had trouble getting the Schnorr CV joint bolt washers from Pelican who referred me to McMaster-Carr. The information is in the picture.Click to view attachment

When I removed my CVs I found the PO had used some type of sealant like RTV instead of gaskets and they hadn't leaked.
I cleaned eveything and reassembled with gaskets; we'll see who was smarter.
Click to view attachment

re: Schnoor washers-

Which way is the correct orientation- pointing towards the bolt head or away?



- Harry

My $0.02

I don't use gaskets anymore and haven't for years. Gaskets are mooshy and change tq value over time. Every spring I remember threads from people who had a lost shaft beat the hell out of the underside of their car. Back in 2004 through about 2007-8 I was making drilled bolts, 12.9 hardness, 6mm allen. You likely have a set of mine, I could tell if I saw them I safety wire the bolts now, and I make sure the surface is clean at the joint and I run a bead of RTV around the joint. Let it dry and its good to go. I have personally never had an issue with this, and I know of many who have done it this way and have never had an issue. YMMV.

The convex towards the bolt head.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...ay-they-go.html

Ditto.

I havent used a gasket in years either. I dont even use RTV and I dont think I've seen any grease loss.

posted to the wrong thread. sorry. see engine build thread

What's the plan wheels, brakes, etc?
Are you going 5 bolt?