If you didn't see elsewhere this is a 1970 914 w/ a 327 and 901 transmission. I purchased the car from "Bullit" and here is some info I gotten thus far. The wiring harness is out of a '73; the front end is off a 911 but I forget which year w/ "M" calipers; Trailing arms have some of Foley's reinforcement kit; Engman inner stiffener kit was installed; Griffen radiator;window regulators from a '73; stock 914 1/2 shafts and a lot more which I'll note later.
I'm presently working on the rear brakes and trailing arms and have 2 questions. What is the torque valve for the nut that my torque wrench is attached to; 108 ft lb or 50 ft lb?
The manual says 50 for "Control arm bearing/body" and 108 ft lbs for the "Control arm bearing/control arm". Not sure which is which!

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108. 50 is for the 3 bolts on the "adjustment plate". You will want the susp loaded (at ride height) to set the rubber bushings. If it's not rubber then it won't matter.

"M" calipers are SC, 20mm rotors.

Oh, and nice score on the new project.

2nd question. The new E brake cable head came with a retaining clip I hadn't seen before. I have several of the standard style clips but they won't slide on because there isn't enough of the groove protruding thru the bracket. It's as if the bracket is 1/32" too thick as shown in this pic.

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This is a pic of the small clip installed as I received it but with 2 washers between it and the bracket to take up the slack. Without the spacer it just wobbles.

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Thx Chris, I thought that was it but wasn't sure. I totally forgot about loading it though. Thx.

I say 108 ftlbs for the nut, and the three bolts which mount the bracket to the body are torqued to 50 ftlbs. I allow myself to be wrong, though I think I could be right.

Must be 108 if both you guys agree. I couldn't access the R side as well so I pulled the flare I found the holes for the flare were drilled after it was painted so I sanded/cleaned and primed the bare metal spots where it was drilled out and on the cut line as well. While I was at it I did the same on the left side and for a gash on the rear trunk lid. That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.

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That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.

Do you have the Ducktail spoiler? I have a nice small wing that was on a V8 car I had.

Bob B
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I do indeed, thanks. It came with the car but had not been installed. I haven't even unwrapped it yet.

I spent this morning doing a little house cleaning. When the Hell Hole wall was patched it was done so using 3-4 smaller pieces that were welded together with lap joints. Not the prettiest but functional. I had seen this in the photos posted prior to buying the car. Before I reattached the flare I decided to take a look under some very thick undercoating and found Mr. Ugly staring back at me! There is also another small patch closer to the front that you can see in the after pics. Glad I looked or this would have needed another repair in a few years.

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I cleaned the metal with a wire brush on my grinder then primed the recessed and exposed areas as well. Next I filled the voids and lap joints with Wurth's
Seam Sealer followed up with 2 coats of primer. Doesn't look like 3 hours work but it was.

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Also took a good pic of the block casting #

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So. it's a

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Head casting ID but I haven't lifted a valve cover to get the casting #

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So apparently it's "G" which is a 350 head. Will the 350 mate to a 327?. That's why the casting number will be more accurate. I guess it's possible that some modification was done.

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I found this on the head casting, looks like maybe a crate 350 head.

3998993


Might be the same head I ran on my v8. Lemme look. If so, I made 240hp and 290 tq to the wheels on a less than ideal setup without messing with the head. It was a torquey sob.

Andrew thats the info I have
Heads- 3998993 rebuilt with
Intake valves 2.02
Exhaust 1.60
76cc chamber
Roller rockers
Hydraulic lifters
Block bored .060 over

Your doing a great job Kent!

Be pointed forward when you go for the first big throttle stab. Steep and fast learning curve. Be prepared for the hot gun that thinks they want to challenge the poser in the flared 914.

That won't happen for awhile Kev. Renegade is very explicit about breaking in the clutch sold with that kit. 500 miles of normal stop and go driving before you can punch it. That works out to be about $150-$200 of Petro.
I bought a sand blaster kit recommended by another member about 6 months ago and finally got to use it today. OMG, what a difference from that POS HF gun. I purchased a cabinet and gun from HF and that SOB put me in a bad mood every time I used it. It had a mind of it's own and would work then not work. I would shake the cabinet, change media, cuss, threaten it, pray, stir the sand, unclog the pick up tube, take the gun a part, you name it. This kit was made to modify the HF set up (you think they know it is a POS) and came with a big pick up hose, a beefy pick up tube and larger pistol with 3 different size metal tips. IIRC, it was about $60 and worth every penny. All it does is work, very well, every time you pull the trigger. To give you and idea, in 20 minutes of cleaning this afternoon I've blown the paint off the back wall of the cabinet. It never came off in the 2 years that I used it with HF's gun. Life is once again good! A pic showing 5 minutes work. Only did 1/2 of each piece to illustrate.

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Great job Kent...let me know if you need help blasting larger pieces. Just hit me up so we can coordinate. I usually run garnet for steel or glass bead for Alum and Stainless.

Oscar

"Mr. Ugly" was staring back at you?







Looks like a fun project, Kent!!!! Good luck with it.

I tried to install these today but their appx 1" longer than the opening. Did the 70 model have a different size guard or did they not have them, period? TIA, Kent

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327 is a great SBC choice in a 914. Good power, not too torquey. I put 225lb springs on the rear of mine and it felt great. It was super predictable and always "set" in the corners exactly the same. This car will be a blast! Just throw the wheels away. They are super ugly.

Early cars had a brush. 914rubber had talked about making them.

Welcome to the World of fun 914's Kent...nothin' like na torque and sound! Enjoy!

Tony

. While I was at it I did the same on the left side and for a gash on the rear trunk lid. That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.
[/quote]

for a V8 you may want a more aggressive spoiler like the one i have for sale in the WTB forum.

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[quote name='Mike Bellis' date='Oct 18 2017, 07:58 PM' post='2539207']
327 is a great SBC choice in a 914. Good power, not too torquey. I put 225lb springs on the rear of mine and it felt great. It was super predictable and always "set" in the corners exactly the same. This car will be a blast! Just throw the wheels away. They are super ugly.
[/quote]
I haven't checked the spring rate yet but good to know 225# are good. I can't see the wheels from the drivers seat so I'm good with the look. The tire options are many, now.
[quote name='Chris914n6' date='Oct 18 2017, 10:29 PM' post='2539251']
[quote name='76-914' post='2539195' date='Oct 18 2017, 07:17 PM']
I tried to install these today but their appx 1" longer than the opening. Did the 70 model have a different size guard or did they not have them, period? TIA, Kent
[/quote]
Early cars had a brush. 914rubber had talked about making them.
Thx Chris. This body style is new to me.
[/quote][quote name='Cracker' date='Oct 19 2017, 03:26 AM' post='2539271']
Welcome to the World of fun 914's Kent...nothin' like na torque and sound! Enjoy!

Tony
When I was a kid I'd clip Playing Cards to my bicycle fender so the spokes would make a faux motor sound. So the sound just may become addictive.
[/quote][quote name='barefoot' date='Oct 19 2017, 04:43 AM' post='2539287']
. While I was at it I did the same on the left side and for a gash on the rear trunk lid. That spot will be covered by a Ducktail spoiler so it will probably just get some bondo filler later.
[/quote]

for a V8 you may want a more aggressive spoiler like the one i have for sale in the WTB forum.

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[/quote]
I would if I drove like Tony.

I had 225's on mine as well, even had 275's for a while and felt they were fine. Currently have 225's on mine with the 4 and like it.


For a street car anything from 180-225 should work just fine.

..and who makes that "better" media blaster?
Great work!

Here you go. HF must have complained because they're no longer "called out" in this ad. However, if you read the comments below the ad, several satisfied customers mention that their HF blasting cabinets were total transformed into functioning cabinets. Order the catalog; it's free. They are an Internet Body Shop supply. They currently have a sale going on.
http://www.tptools.com/USA-Cabinet-Gun-and-Pickup-Tube-Upgrade-Kit,2320.html?b=d*8012!r*PriceRange*%2460+-+%2499.99

I'm working on "how to" use the existing 914 throttle cable. I fished the cable reasonably close to the carb to see if it would reach. There wasn't any place to connect the cable on the carb linkage so I drilled out that small tab that is bent at a 45 degree angle then straightened that tab out to accept the barrel adapter that I had laying around.

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After fitting the barrel to the linkage I cut the end off the cable and fit it inside the barrel.

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Next I heated that stiff plastic sheathing to bend it towards the carb.

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I made this bracket to hold the cable in place. I couldn't bend this bracket to 90 degrees or the barrel would contact it before it reached maximum pull i.e. full throttle but at this angle the cable was pointing up and would bind.

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I placed another bend in the bracket to level it out. seems to line up alright so next step is to remove this old cable and replace it with a new one.

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Finally got a chance to work on Red today. Finished mounting the radiator but still need to fab the plenum and mount the fans. That'll have to wait until I get up to Aircraft Spruce for some aluminum. Guess I should start plumbing it in the meantime.

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Installed some of the "Bling" that came with the car

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My clutch pedal now stands on it's own since I connected the clutch

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And my acellarator now functions. The old cable was toast so I put a new one in. I used one that I had ordered for Kugal when I converted it to a Suby 6 but they made it wrong so they gave it to me. Well guess what; it fit Red perfectly. The only thing I need to do now is attach the pedal but that would just be in the way at this stage.

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Made the rough cut templates out of cardboard. They give me a general idea of the size to cut the second set out of poster board which is easier to bend and fit.

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Then the poster board templates are fit and trimmed.

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Bottom piece checked in place

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Then the sides and top pieces are cut, trimmed and clecoed in place

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Next I riveted the bottom to the frame but can't rivet the remaining pieces in because the right side headlight harness passes thru and I haven't checked out the electrical yet.

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Reinstalled the radiator to check fit

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The side will get a trim flange to fill the void once the side pieces are riveted in place.

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A shot from the front

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Looks good!!!

Kent, contact TC914-8 (tony) about the carb linkage in his car. The one he uses solved some issues. Looks real slick too.

Thx Andrew and Bob. When I peel back that protective coating it will really Pop! Hey Kev, I'll see how this works but if it with me I'll be looking him up. Does he have a build thread I could reference?

Nice, Kent, a 914 part# on your V-8!

Good eye Mark. I totally missed that. Now where was I? Oh yes, so that's a far as I can go with the plenum until I can get the electrical to the horns and running lights tied in and tested because that harness passes thru the plenum. So it was time to hang those fans. Another good reason to buy the Celica radiator that comes WITH fans. That feature alone will save you 6 hours. I managed to piss off and hour trying to devise a shroud that would mount to the radiator before I pulled my head out of my and used the radiator mounts for the shroud as well. Can't believe I didn't see that immediately. I used some 1/4" bolts that came with the car. They do not have a hex head but rather a round thin base. Bob's intention was to weld those to the bottom from which to hang the radiator hoses but I preferred using 6mm SS nuts, bolts and washers like I did on the Suby conversion. The radiator brackets were all on the same vertical plane so it was just a matter of welding one of these threaded pieces to each brace. You can see the top ones but not the bottom where the grey primer is on the bracket.

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I took a piece of this 1/8" backer board and pressed it against the bolts until they popped thru to mark their location then laid the fans across the template to check for fit. Looked like everything would mount up OK.

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Then I took a piece of .050" aluminum and drilled it to match adding some 3/4" x1/8" filleted (AC grade) angle to stiffen and re-inforce the attach points.

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After a quick test fit the shroud was riveted and prepped for painting

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Then 2 coats etching primer and 3 coats of paint.

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Damn, Kent. That looks pretty good. I have to get myself to Aircraft Spruce to pick up some aluminum to do my oil cooler shrouding.

You're inspiring me...!!!!!!!

You might try a German engine in a 914 someday?

Fast work Kent! Carry on.

Got'a keep moving if I want to sell this thing in time for Spring Fever. One good thing about posting the pic's is you have a chance to review your work. I just noticed that I have my radiator lines bass-akwards. An easy fix no harm done.

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While waiting for the paint to dry on the shroud I worked up the courage to remove the windshield. It was held in place by approximately 11 tubes of silicon. Once I was able to open up an area large enough to fish a wire through I was able to slice thru it.

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This will give you an idea of how much silicon needs to be removed.

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I fashioned the scraper out of some 1/2" PVC conduit and gave it an edge.

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It works well. I removed about a 3rd of the caulking in 5 minutes as you can see in this pic. There is a small skim coat that remains in the channel so I'm thinking what would be the smart approach to remove it. Maybe a brass bristle roto brush chucked in a drill so the rpm's aren't high enough to bubble the paint Then mask and prime the area if any paint comes of during the process?

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A chemical might help remove it. There might be something that would lift silicone but not harm the paint. Im thinking maybe Goo-Gone or similar.
Maybe WD-40?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mq2Z-i5Iy7s

Never seen anyone use clear silicone for a window.

It was a temp install to transport the car 2500 miles. However all I could see was 2500 miles in driving rain resulting in the seats, lower dash, fuse block, and wiring ruined. Problem with silicone is it needs to be really thick around the windshield frame or it won't even contact the windshield. The normal window weld stuff is about 1/8" thick. Sorry Kent, please forgive me!

Thats my story and I'm sticking with it...

I usually just use a wire brush by hand and my thumb. Take the pillar trim off first, don't need to damage that for no reason.

Yeah Chris, When I get after it I will remove that pillar trim for sure. Tonite I was able to get 99% of it off to the point it is basically a skim coat. I think one of those eraser wheels that body men use to remove decals might be the ticket. What are those called Chris? No problem Bob. I spent more time whining about it than it's taken to remove it! Keeping it dry was priority #1.

3M adhesive earser wheel

That's it Stephan. But it's about 3/16" too wide. Damnit. You've put me on the right trail though. I wonder if I could wear it down on the sides w/o much trouble. That channel is only about 8mm wide some places. There are some spray n adhesive removers too but I'm doubtful they'd breakdown silicon. I see they also make plastic razor blades for safe scrapping.

Wire wheel for a dremel?

Yea Bob, I'm thinking along those lines but a softer brass one and something I can chuck into a die grinder. Dremel tools are fine for tiny stuff but this is about 12'. Did I mention that their terribly overpriced, as well. Next on the schedule is flushing the block.

Jeez Kent, impressed with your sheet metal work. Cleeco's and everything.

Your wife must be a Saint.

Delete that Rob. I don't want her to see that.
So it's time for an update as it's been a couple of weeks. I'm not able to report the progress I had hoped but here I am.
Flushed the block. Surprisingly small amount of rust in the block

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Finally removed the last of the silicone from the frame with a wire goto brush. Lost a little paint here and there so I primed and painted that area with some black which I had on hand. No biggie as it will be hidden from view. Just teasing you in that one pic Bob.

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I believe I'm at about 90% complete with the wiring. I've powered up both circuits going into the cabin. I have all of the gage lights working, as well as headlights, parking and turn signals, fan lights, pop up headlights and horns. Jesus H Christ Bob. What horns are those? I can't hear myself fart anymore and those horns scared the Hell out me. :rotfl : I should receive the fan controller and Dakota Digital Quad gauge by Monday and hope to be complete with wiring in the next week.

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Since I have this huge mass of cast iron I added an anode rod to protect my aluminum radiator. Cheap insurance.

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Of all things the blinkers quit working so I submersed myself again only to find it was the ignition switch. BTW, Pelican does not stock them and only orders one once they've received your payment. Big of them, Huh. May Mark will stock them as we all know the Chinese switches are crapola.

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Modified the Most Excellent steering pan cover that I received from Bruce aka bdstone, to accept the hoses run beneath.

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Then I happened upon the 4th Circle of Hell. The dip stick tube was broken and needed to be replaced. This is the old one. I thought the broken piece was difficult to remove but it paled in comparison to installing the new one.

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There was no Good place to tap the new one into place. I thought about using a long large screwdriver but that would have place too much force upon the flared section of the tube. I farted around for 2 hours before deciding upon this method. I heated a cheap 7/16" wrench. It spread the load across the flared section enough that I could hammer it into place with a 1/4" steel rod. Hard to visualize but it worked. Three damned hours to R&R that thing.

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Isn't this car running yet?

Great Job Kent !!!

Horns were on the car when I bought it...