I read all the threads on oil catch cans ( Empi, Chris's, Bug Pac, Etc) Has anyone tried anything new or different?. I think the last thread was in 07.

Ps. I have a 2056 with dual carbs.

I did this
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I have a 2056 with heads from a car with the two breather tubes. I plugged the tubes and let the case breath through the normal route. Case does leak oil, but I do not think the heads really need the vents. The viscosity of air is so much lower than oil and there are all of the pushrod tubes connecting the case to the heads.

Thanks!
I read Len Hoffmans's blog about not using the head vents. He might be right but VW engineers put then in for some reason.
Full discloser I am not a real engineer but I did act as one on a B747 eons ago.
Brian

Gatorade bottle with a few holes drilled into it ...

I may be making these over the winter
http://garage.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=311613


Needed a running 914 to test my design, my prototype puke tank for a K&N rainhat weber /6 has been cut apart twice now and is in final testing...because I now have a running car.
So far it looks like I got it right, but now it's the end of season busy time and I won't time to tackle this project till around December or the new year.

Going to look into doing one for the /4 as well.

I've been wrestling with this issue myself for a little while. From what I understand Carrie has told me that most of the guys are running the inexpensive Summit cans and just modifying them. And our pricing the mid-20s it seems to make sense. I'm probably going to wind up doing that myself I'll post some pictures if I get two in the near future.

Which summit can are they running?

[quote name='80cap' date='Oct 20 2017, 02:53 PM' post='2539876']
Thanks!
I read Len Hoffmans's blog about not using the head vents. He might be right but VW engineers put then in for some reason.
Full discloser I am not a real engineer but I did act as one on a B747 eons ago.
Brian


75-75 heads have no vents!

Here's mine. Nothing new though. Mounted high on the firewall with lines to the oil filler and both heads. As per FAT Performance. I never liked the way it looks but it works OK. Any other ideas on how to mount a breather for a type IV?

Sorry $50, but stainless steel.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-300103

Mine just puffs and fumes away but no oil comes out so no mess ,bought a catch can but didn't use it.
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Yes, I have a 76 and the heads weren't vented for smog compliance. I'building up new heads which now have the vents.

Had vents are necessary only if you connect the center vent to a vacuum source. For carb, block the head vents and just connect the center vent to a breather box.

Somewhere in here I remember that Jake Raby had better results just connection the 2 head vents to each other.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-8540...3waAla2EALw_wcB

There seems to be a difference of opinion here since my engine was built with head vents and a vent to the crankcase??? Since my engine was built by a highly respected engine builder I am reluctant to remove the head vents no matter how much I might want to.

I used som half inch alu tubes to run hard lines from the vent ports to the rear firewall and then use rubber hoses to connect all the ports to a cheap Ebay alu catch can.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPyB6UGlaRY/?taken-by=914rs

No one mentioned Chris' system? That's what I'm using on the race car (2056 dual Dells). I tried different homebuilt iterations and ultimately this was the Easy Button. Plus, the welded-aluminum tank is really pimpy:

http://www.tangerineracing.com/crankcasebreather.htm

Stock system seems to work fine on the street car.

As for venting the heads...well, I'm of the opinion that as long as any heat and pressure can vent to the case through the pushrod tubes, then there's no real need for head vents, all pressure should vent fine through the top of the case. But I have them, and it's just much easier to slide a couple 1/2" ID hoses on them and be done with it.

What's wrong with venting them to the carbs?

Nothing ...

That's a very neat set up

So this is the one I plan to produce in the coming months.
Mind the messy welds, this is the prototype and I've had to cut and weld it up a few times to get it right.

This version is for the /6 with weber rainhats, a weber /4 would be easy enough to do. If I include hose the weber /4 breather kit will be a bit cheaper than the /6, the 25mm hose alone is about $60.

My system is vented to the intake, making for a clean engine bay and environmentally better than venting to the atmosphere. I've vented this way in different aircooleds for 30 years with no ill effects.

What it looks like from under the car, it has a petcock to easily drain the puke and it would hold about a full liter of oil. Just drain during every oil change.

So this was my breather setup. I didn't like all the T connections. I have since got a new breather box (as there wasn't one before). What are guys with carbs doing to have just the fumes sucked back into the carb without drilling the top of the filter plate. I just got new air filters from CB and didn't want to have to drill them. Am I SOL? Also can someone confirm the line I have marked Fuel is in fact from the front trunk charcoal can. This fume vent line is still needed even with carbs correct?
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New setup, but no link to carbs yet.Click to view attachment

In order for the gas tank charcoal canister to do it's job correctly, you need one hose connected to the fan shroud, blowing air through the charcoal, and the other hose should be connected into the engine air stream.

So teeing it into the crankcase breather isn't really getting rid of the hydrocarbons (emissions) because that only happens with combustion. But it will keep things clean and help avoid a gas-smell.

Two separate systems and the charcoal canister should have it's own breather line. If oil was to soak into the charcoal it would render it useless.
This is a project I plan to do over the winter to my /6 conversion.

Sorry yes there are two hoses in front of my fan shroud and one is connected to the port on the shroud itself. The other is connected to the "T". So that is all hooked up correctly and needed. Now, options for not drilling the top of the filter plate?

Update Diag:
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Drill the bottom plate