I will need to drop the motor and pull the heads due to a broken valve. While I do that I want to get some info from you all the experts on what pricing will look like. If the heads show to be cracked, I'll need to source new ones. The motor is a GA 2.0 upgraded to a 2056. I think someone said I can go 1.8 or 2.0 without modification.

Who has the best price on well made new ones?

In the event the heads can saved, who do you trust for the repairs?

Also, I found these:

https://aapistons.com/collections/bare-cast...stud-round-port

Are they any good? I guess I would then need a shop to install the valves and everything from my old heads.

Thanks experts

https://aapistons.com/collections/bare-cast...stud-round-port




new head, the seats, valves and guides need to be installed, great bargain!

DPR racing heads in Anaheim CA, or Ham.

Where do the heads fit in the budget?

If your heads are the 2.0 three-stud ones, the easiest thing is to get 2.0 heads. Otherwise you're changing out the manifolds, engine tin, and a couple other things. Not big, in the long run, but a bit of a pain. Plus the 2.0 head spark plug location is better, and the ports should flow a bit better than the 1.8 ones.

--DD

Good point Dave. I have the cb intakes which are universal but I don't like the sound of flow restriction 1.8 heads. 2.0 is what on there now.

Its more then just the intakes. The 2.0 heads had spark plugs in a better position (power wise). If you change to non-2.0 heads you will need 1.7 or 1.8 engine tins.

Zach

Type 4 Store: https://type4store.com/
European Motor Works: www.europeanmotorworks.com/

Even with my 2056 and Megasquirt on the home stretch, it is STILL my dream to build one of Jake ad Lens 2270-170 kit engines to put in my 914.

Zach

Your existing heads can be repaired unless they are badly cracked (around seats ,ports and spark plugs ) other wise buy a good used set or one (?) and get them rebuilt with new exhaust valves and guides @ minimum,you may find your inlet valves are ok.
Your selected engine machinist will offer advise and most likely advise you do a flycut on the head sealing faces ,you may have to ware the cost of having your old heads cleaned for inspection but you may be surprised and find them ok,good luck.

100%

With all the options and conversions I've seen (and no disrespect to anyone whose done them) I still feel that a bullet proof t4 would be my choice; no real added weight, no major reconfiguring, no loss of trunk/frunk/junk space, and it's still a t4. And, having driven one of Chris Foley's gems (which ball parked around 150, IINM) the experience was most delightful...

Yeah, aftermarket FI, Nickies, CFR exhaust, yadablahyada would really add up. But, I can always dream...

Is there are recommended vendor for working on the original heads? HAM stopped working with used T4 heads in 2013 and now offer their RS+ heads through the Type4store for example. And, the AA castings seem like a great option as well. But, what about budget build or top end refresh to 'make it work' for a few more seasons before springing on the shiny new parts.

Hands down HAM. Class act and perfect product. I have had his heads on 2 motors and they are fantastic. He takes the time to listen to what you are planning, make reasonable suggestions based on BTDT experience, and you are set.

Can't speak for heads from others.

Had some heads from a cali builder that failed. Took them to a friend and local aircooled expert. I swear he does every 911 race head in the midwest. He was shocked at how poor the machine work was. I brought in a fresh set of Lens heads. He was blown away. The degree of accuracy and speciality work done was impressive to him. We measured the heads side by side and the differences were shocking.

Len will continue to do any head work I'll need.