QUOTE(stownsen914 @ Dec 6 2017, 03:55 PM)
I'm no suspension expert, but I did a bunch of reading and asked opinions while starting to play around on susprog. In short, I wanted to:
- Get more camber gain. Stock is minimal. I wound up getting about .75 degrees additional negative camber per inch of bump travel. I was told that 1 degree would be ideal, but .75 isn't bad for a strut suspension.
- I wanted the roll center to be low but above ground. I think it wound up like 1" above ground.
- I managed to reduce scrub (side to side travel of the tires as the suspension moves up and down) to almost nothing in the normal range of travel. I think it's like a millimeter total scrub.
- I optimized anti-dive as much as I could. I think susprog expressed it as a %. I don't recall the specifics, but I got it to a place I understood to be "good."
- I played with Ackerman a bit for the steering. I followed the advice of Carroll Smith on this, as I didn't have much else to go on, frankly.
- I also widened the front track 3-4 inches.
Same here-I just dabble based on books and other's experience. Thanks for the design goals list.
I've likewise been trying to shoot for ~-1 deg/in. bump as well and an above ground roll center which at extremes never crosses the ground plane.
I haven't looked into track width change though-good thought. Why did you seek to minimize it? Is it a tire wear or motion ratio change concern with the variable torque arm length change?
QUOTE(stownsen914 @ Dec 6 2017, 03:55 PM)
To do all this, I just put the stock coordinates in susprog for starters and then moved things around (within reason) until I was seeing results I was happy with. The front strut tops moved out a bit for the wider track. The A arms are about twice as long as stock - they attach essentially in the middle of the chassis. I also shortened the steering rack and made a bracket that allows the tie rods to attach almost in the middle of the car to keep the bump steer manageable.
How did you shorten the steering rack? It never occured to me to build a secondary tie rod attachment; very cool idea. That really should help with the bump steer issues resulting from pulling the control arm inboard mounts more towards the center.
QUOTE(stownsen914 @ Dec 6 2017, 03:55 PM)
I found that everything is a compromise. If I over-optimize for one attribute, others went bad. So I kept playing around with it until I got it where the things I cared about were in the ballpark of where I wanted them. One thing that suffered in my design was the scrub radius (how far the wheel sticks out from the axis defined by the strut). Ideally this would be small, but we're limited with a strut in the first place. Scrub radius wound up being my main compromise.
Realizing you haven't extensively druven it, are you happy with the scrub compromise? It doesn't seem like it'd be as big deal in a street or track car (excepting parking lots and maybe pulling out the the pits) as it is in an AX car.
QUOTE(stownsen914 @ Dec 6 2017, 03:55 PM)
I like your idea to make new struts. Using newer parts would be good (maybe Boxster?), and being able to bolt to commonly available struts sounds like a good way to do it. For mine I cut 911 spindles off used struts and welded them to new steel tubes, and welded the tops and bottoms off the 911 struts to my new tubes. Spindles are raised, and the struts are an inch or so shorter than stock as you suggested. My way was a lot of work, and I'm not sure I'd want to do it that way again!
The issue I'm having with Boxster/996 uprights is that they are front steer and have a ton of caster built in so they look non-ideal to turn backwards. I don't really like the idea of moving the rack into the trunk, especially since there is a radiator going in there and having a little cargo space would be nice. They are super cost effective at ~150/set fully built with hubs, bearings, etc. Really a nice clean package. It almost might make sense to plan on using Boxster hubs/bearings and machine a fully custom upright to press the bearing into but that's a ton of effort. The 944 units are a little nicer to turn around and can fit old VW Golf struts.
QUOTE(stownsen914 @ Dec 6 2017, 03:55 PM)
I'm really happy with the results of the redesign. I only got to drive at a couple events after finishing the redesign before I blew the motor, but it really transformed the car. Better than any other single mod I've done to the car.
That's awesome! Nice to like the changes after so much work.
Sorry for all of the questions! It's so rare that people redesign/refine the OEM suspension, you and Kevin Groot are the only people I can remember on this forum, so it's nice to hear your rationale.
Jim