QUOTE(Spoke @ Nov 25 2017, 06:29 AM)
Do you have a schematic of how the ammeter is connected?
Also, when you saw the 16V, was it stable or bouncing around?
I don’t think I have that schematic, but there’s a lot of records I’m still sifting through. I wasn’t going to worry about the ammeter before because I’d assumed it would be like the test equipment I’ve seen that uses inductive couplers over the insulated wires without any direct electrical connection. If it’s not being done this way ... I’m not sure it’s worth even having an ammeter.
When I saw 16V, it was steady for the 10-20 seconds it took me to shut the engine off. I’m not experiencing any problem starting the car or turning on the headlights so maybe this is something I should leave alone?
Previous owner(s) may not have been electrical wizards, or it may not have been their highest priority. There’s no brake lights or reverse lights, and about half the gauges are illuminated. The steering wheel horn button doesn’t work, but there’s a working horn button under the dash. The back pad light doesn’t work, but there’s a new light added to the dash with its own switch. The parking brake / brake warning light doesn’t work. There’s a tiny black button on the dash; neither I nor the previous owner know what it’s for (windshield washer?). There’s a hidden switch for the fuel pump which I kind of like, not that any thief without a tow truck would figure out how to move it anyway.
Surely due to some sort of oversight, the headlights (H4), driving lights, running lights, and turn signals / hazard lights DO work. But the turn signal automatic cancel doesn’t. As a motorcyclist, I kind of prefer to cancel them myself though.