After installing the Chevy small block in my car, I noticed how tight it was in the front. How close should the motor be to the front wall? I am using the Renegade Hybrids setup. solid motor mount (body mount, engine mount is stock chevy) in front and stock motor mounts in the back with the one inch extension block. The water pump inlet on the passenger side (next to timing chain) is rubbing the existing vertical wire harness loom a bit. Seems a bit abnormal.

All two cents welcomed.

The adapter for the block water inlet fitting that I used looks alot shorter than those on your picture. Mine are no more than .25 " high and this puts my inlet fitting about .5" from the firewall. I'm using the same gann fitting you have.
It looks like the aluminum adapter is a little on the large size.


Bob

[hijack]
Hey Bob, that's quite a targa top you got there.
Seriously though, I'm liking your car!
[/hijack]

It's a pretty tight fit on mine and i've got the renegade setup too. you are welcome to drop by this weekend and check it out. just email or PM

QUOTE (Rand @ May 28 2005, 07:25 PM)

[hijack] Hey Bob, that's quite a targa top you got there. Seriously though, I'm liking your car! [/hijack]

That's actually my car. Yeah I love my car so much I sleep on it. Thanks for the info guys. The inlet with the arrow pointing to it is the one pushing up against that wire loom. I guess Renegade changed up on there water inlet flanges again. I hope it's gonna be no problem. BTW, Does anyone have any wiring tips on Ignition, one wire alternator, dizzy, Carb choke, etc. My previous motor (13b turbo) was setup using a standalone ecu so this is a whole new animal for me. Somebody school me, please.

Tom,

Those water outlet mounts and elbows are pretty long compared to my Jaide parts. Maybe you need to screw the elbow in more. I am currently mounting the Renegade parts on my engine and cleaning the bay so I haven't installed the engine yet.

Did you buy the Renegade parts new? They have a login required link at their website with all the instructions and a wiring diagram.

QUOTE (Neo914 @ May 29 2005, 05:21 PM)

Tom, Those water outlet mounts and elbows are pretty long compared to my Jaide parts. Maybe you need to screw the elbow in more. I am currently mounting the Renegade parts on my engine and cleaning the bay so I haven't installed the engine yet. Did you buy the Renegade parts new? They have a login required link at their website with all the instructions and a wiring diagram.

Yes, I bought the parts new a month ago and went with the pictured intructions. Maybe I might try to screw the elbows in a little more. I also have to bend to brake lines from the t- fitting that replaced the proportioning valve. It' s got to be flush with the firewall. The lines are currently milimeters from the waterpump pulley wheel (not good). What I should have done or might do is to cut that horizontal sheet metal from the front fire wall. I don't think it's a structural support and should make more room without it. Has anyone done this yet?

QUOTE (lybones @ May 30 2005, 03:21 PM)

QUOTE (Neo914 @ May 29 2005, 05:21 PM) Tom, Those water outlet mounts and elbows are pretty long compared to my Jaide parts.  Maybe you need to screw the elbow in more.  I am currently mounting the Renegade parts on my engine and cleaning the bay so I haven't installed the engine yet.   Did you buy the Renegade parts new?  They have a login required link at their website with all the instructions and a wiring diagram. Yes, I bought the parts new a month ago and went with the pictured intructions. Maybe I might try to screw the elbows in a little more. I also have to bend to brake lines from the t- fitting that replaced the proportioning valve. It' s got to be flush with the firewall. The lines are currently milimeters from the waterpump pulley wheel (not good). What I should have done or might do is to cut that horizontal sheet metal from the front fire wall. I don't think it's a structural support and should make more room without it. Has anyone done this yet?

The position of the pulleys is determined where the harmonic balancer is spaced from the engine. This sets the front to back location of the w/p. It should also align with the alternator pulley but I don't know if there is much adjustment, maybe shims are used. Mine has a gear drive at the crank which effectively replaces the spacer. I'm still concerned it may be too close to the timing cover once I tighten the bolt. The Renegade instructions are not complete enough, maybe intentionally so you "have" to call Scott...

The "shelf" is only to seal the engine. You can cut off as much as you want for the V8. I have to install my tee too...

QUOTE (Neo914 @ May 30 2005, 04:39 PM)

You can cut off as much as you want for the V8. I have to install my tee too...

Not quite.. you will have to leave the last 1/2" or so of the front engine shelf as that is the spotweld joint between the upper and lower sections of the firewall. The side engine shelves can come off completely.

Tom, Here's a pic I just shot of my firewall clearance. Approx. 1/2" between balancer and wire tube. It's a full Renegade setup. I used a 1-wire alt and a stock engine bay harness from a '75 1.8 connected to the relay board like normal. I used the Haynes manual to identify the wires for the dist, tach, oil pressure switch (mtd next to dist), starter, and reverse switch, which all are long enough and dressed nicely. I'm not running a choke. The double relay is hooked up and connected to the battery but to be honest I don't recall if I even need it or what it does. The only wires I added were for the fuel pump and the fans. I still need to wire in oil pressure gauge and water temp gauges.
Ed

Woops, wrong pic. Here's a blind shot of the fitting clearance.

QUOTE (elocke @ May 30 2005, 06:42 PM)

Tom, Here's a pic I just shot of my firewall clearance. Approx. 1/2" between balancer and wire tube. It's a full Renegade setup. I used a 1-wire alt and a stock engine bay harness from a '75 1.8 connected to the relay board like normal. I used the Haynes manual to identify the wires for the dist, tach, oil pressure switch (mtd next to dist), starter, and reverse switch, which all are long enough and dressed nicely. I'm not running a choke. The double relay is hooked up and connected to the battery but to be honest I don't recall if I even need it or what it does. The only wires I added were for the fuel pump and the fans. I still need to wire in oil pressure gauge and water temp gauges. Ed

Yep, that's how my motor looks like. So I guess that's how it's suppose to be. I'll have to buy a haynes manual to check out the wiring. Out of curiousity how come you did not use the existing fuel pump wires to hook up the fuel pump?


Felix,

Regarding the Renegade hybrids install instructions, I too, feel it is lacking considering they have been selling these nice kits for quite some time now. They should have put as much R&D into a instructions as they did for the kit.

Same for me...

We say it fits.... We never said how tight it is...

My RH conversion was tight enough to require some firewall "clearancing" for the driver's valve cover. My water pump belt is close enough to the shift rod to eliminate the possibility of the firewall shift rod boot. Like it's been said before, it fits, but not by much...

Eric

Concerning the fuel pump wiring, good question. I would have used them if they were there. The car originally had the pump up front where I wanted it anyway, but when I re-assembled everything there were no wires. You've made me want to look into it though because I tried to use stock wiring to keep it from looking hacked and to easily troubleshoot from a stock schematic. It's got stock '74 1.8 wiring except the engine harness (T12 connector bundle) is from a boneyard '75 1.8 so I could keep the original one intact.
Also good points about the shift coupling boot and the valve cover clearance. A ball peen and dolly took care of the latter, unfortunatly after I had jammed the engine in there (I knew about it too). I think it's because I used the tall valve covers; my guess is stock would probably clear. My boot is dangling on the shift rod, slid back a bit. I wondered if it would hit.
All my Renegade stuff has worked flawlessly. Still, every time I check my temp gauge while the engine's running it's at 180. I'm not the type to call alot for help so the directions were adequate. I relied more on the years of research and lurking and asking dumb questions and probably obsessing on this car.
Ed

Pic of latest status. Need to replace the windshield. Trim's off. Seems to me I could wire it off, scrape the old gunk out, put in some Butyl, and stick on the new old windshield. Is it that easy? Time to scan old posts.

It looks like you guys have the Gann hose fitting threaded into the adapter plate on the block. I'd suggest you pay a few bucks and get the fitting that Rod Simpson sells. The conversion I bought had sat for several years and I had alot of hassel finding the problem with the cooling. It turned out to be those Gann fittings, which I believe are zinc or pot metal. They had corroded and become almost completely blocked. I tried all kinds of brass fittings as a replacement and couldn't get anything to work since it's so close to the firewall, as you said. The right angle brass fittings that Rods sells must be special made to have a low profile because they work great. I can find those old Gann fittings if you guys want to see a picture - it's a sad sight and caused me much grief.

The GANN fittings are black plastic. Got a pic of the shorter Simpson fittings?

tyler,

Still have your V8 914? Tell me more so I can add it to the conversions list.