It broke right at the base of the ball cup fitting; is this where they usually break ?
Good news is I was in the parking lot at Starbucks and not on the freeway or on an incline.....

yes, along with broken clutch cable. When you get the new one, drip some good quality teflon lube (or similar) down the cable. It will keep it smooth and rust free.

Sir Jim, looks like ur cable is been there for many years. When is the last time you replaced it? I believed you drove ur car many many miles already.

That looks like structural failure due to corrosion. My guess is this cable is 5 to 10 years old. Shouldn't be much moisture in this area for corrosion. The only other option is that it was over swedged and deformed the metal strands to the point that they failed early.

3 years ! Would coating that part where the cable enters the fitting help ?
Maybe even red locktite

If it's only 3 years it's been over swadged. Manufacturing defect.

Strangely enough, I think they break more frequently if your grounding strap is bad or not connected. So I'd check the strap between your transmission and bottom of rear trunk.

-Steve

Possible, but the clutch cable is the shortest route for current. I found out in WCR05.

I broke one this week dropping a 3.2 out of a donor car.
Another good plug for a dab of anti-seize.

If you travel any distance a spare accelerator and clutch cable should be in your kit.

over-swaged or incorrect size dies.

There is a stop for the pedal. If this is not set properly, it is possible to put too much stress on the cable. That alone didn't break the cable but may have been a contributing factor.

Agree ! Hard part is doing it on the side of the road, or worse, in the dark..... I carry a small kit for the clutch cable replacement: 2 11mm wrenches, extra nuts for the cable end, piece of bunji cord, latex gloves, and a mini bottle of soap.

Yes possible, but with Jim I'm sure he used a caliper to measure the depth. I know his attention to detail.

Did the cable end rotate freely on the ball...was it difficult to remove ? not lubricated ?
If it does not rotate freely it is subject to fatigue and failure at the attachment to the cable.

IIRC, the cable is more/less fixed in position because of the locking nut ?

I will go back to the acc pedal connection and reinspect ....

The accelerator cable on the 'BB' has a lot of drag on it. Looking in the tunnel with an inspection camera didn't help to locate the problem, so I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and drill some additional inspection holes in the tunnel to see WTF is going on

Earlier, I had the feeling the cable was dragging too. A minor rerouting of the cable in the engine bay solved the problem. Also sprayed Teflon dry-lube on the throttle body moving parts.

See: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC..._PCABLE_pg1.htm

Pelican offers GEMO, Ofle, Porsche OEM, and Terry accelerator cables; is there a visual difference in these ? Is the Terry cable made that much better to justify spending 3x as much ?

Jim the terry cable is much beefer. That's what I'm running in my car, both acc. and clutch cables are terry cables.

Is the cable-to-swedge part made better at the front end ?