Next question.........I need to install the drop link cup bushings for the rear sway bar. I haven't a clue as to the correct way to accomplish the task. The sway bar is currently in the car, I just got the cup bushings yesterday. They look to be a nylon material.

Would ya'all be so kind as give me some direction. I'm sure it must be simple but keep in mind..........I ain't that smart.

Best,
mike

Drop them in boiling water. Handle with care. Mash the cup end together into hole. Push flat end down on flat surface to pop it into place. MAKE SURE you put the second bushing in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION.

Welp......I tried the boiling water several times. I finally came to the conclusion that the bushings had maybe a 1000ths (or so) to much material to go into the drop link. Removed a tad bit with my un-scientific bench grinder, and, with a small press they went in the link ends. Then it was on to installing the link onto the sway bar and arm.

Dang.......that was not easy. Pry bar, giant pliers, wood (to pry against) and me. Finally all is good but it was a workout. The nylon type of material used is not easy or forgiving when it comes to installation but I reckon it will last indefinitely or until I'm dead, then who cares.

Worked up a sweat as it is 70 today.........dang you SoCal weather

Got busy and forgot to post.

Lube with NAPA Sil-Glyde then slowly press on with 6" C-clamp. Going slow allows you to keep it aligned till it pops on.

I used a vise to press the bushings into the drop-link. They didn't want to go; they kept poking out the side of the drop-link hole. I used a screwdriver to push them back in and kept cranking the vise. They finally gave up and went where I told them to.

I used a couple of different clamps to get the drop-links on the bar and trailing arm. A big lever-type clamp for the trailing arm one, and a smaller C clamp on the bar one. The last one you do will be extra challenging, unless you finagle the trailing arms so that the drop-link socket and the ball on the end of the sway bar line up correctly.... A couple of floor jacks can help with that. One under each trailing arm.

--DD

I drilled a small hole in the backside of the plastic cups and then used a c-clamp to first press the bushings into the arms and then the swaybar ends into the cups.

Worked like a charm ...

I almost posted a How To last week. Very simple. I didn't want to futz with the boiling water so I placed one in front of a Heat Gun for about 1 minute then placed it in a vise and slowly closed the jaws until it began to get a little crooked and wanted to slip out. Then I squeezed the plastic cup with needle nose piers and nudged it in the offending area with a dull screwdriver and continued cranking on the vise. It gives up and slide in. I had my head in my arse when I did the 2nd one and had to remove it. Also simple. Grab 2 sockets. One that will fit against the opening of the drop link but large enough for the plastic cup to pass thru and another that will fit inside the plastic cup. Then close the vise jaws while it is still warm and it will pop right out.

No heat, hot water or drilling required. Just some grease and a one handed bar clamp capable of about 300 lbs of force.



http://www.irwin.com/tools/clamps/sl300-on...lamps-spreaders

Here's what I did. Cheap and worked like a charm
Click to view attachment

Just to add a bit. While very crude this is an extremely easy way to get the bushings on to the drop links. 23mm socket and. M10 bolt.

Bushing is tough enough to push directly on. Took 5 min to do all 4.

Click to view attachment

It has been a long time since I had to install the bushings, but putting them back on the car is easy.

I use great big channel locks. Takes about 3 seconds. The channel locks also serve as my oil filter wrench.

I just did both sides a couple days ago. Spent way to much time on the first one before I realized I was over thinking it. Second one went quick. If you think of the bushing as a cup go in cup top first and just push them in with a flat screwdriver. They will fold up a bit going in but pop right back in shape once in. Squeeze them on with some big channel locks and your off to the track.

I forgot an important step. Tie wrap them in place before you try to channel lock them on. Frees up both hands for the channel locks.