The ground wire in my distributor was fried due to my stupidity. Car still starts and runs fine, but clearly this needs to be fixed.

After reading several threads from people asking how to replace the wire, apparently the contact plate that includes the wire can be replaced but I can't find a source for one.
Since the ends look ok, any reason I couldn't just clamp another ground alongside the existing one? I've heard that trying to solder a new ground on is extremely difficult at best and there is danger in overheating the area.

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Replace the points with a Pertronix unit, you won't need the ground wire.

Thanks, but not interested in going that route quite yet.

I had a problem (or concern) with a ground wire a while back. I did a rare AA purchase. They have replacement dizzy plates with wire: http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Distrib...311905227C.html

As far as I know that's the only source.

looks like its just soldered in, easy fix just get some terminal lugs and some braid. use solder wick or a solder sucker to get the old stuff out.

or for a super easy fix( i wouldn't do this but would to get myself home) coat the braid in flux heat with a solder iron and solder the wire lightly till its silver.

I posted a thread back in 2006 or so but can't find it. I do have some photos though, so I'll add them in. Bottom line is repairing that ground wire isn't hard, it's just a project. I fixed mine by cleaning the solder points in the plates very well with a little wire wheel on a dremel. I replaced the wire with solder wick which was readily available at Radio Shack back then. Tinned both ends of the wick as well as the solder points on the plates. Having done all that, the solder connections were easy.

Couple of old pics if they help.

I also did a Pertronix at the time. It's a great opportunity to clean the plates and regrease because they are likely gunky but need to be able to move freely.

This pic shows where the original wire broke loose from the solder point on the bottom plate, and how I cleaned it up with the dremel (critical for new solder to stick)

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The plates cleaned and freshly regreased.

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Plates back together with new braided wire (solder wick) freshly soldered in. I cannot stress enough how important it is to have both ends of the wire AND the solder points on the plates tinned first. That ensures a reliable solder connection that will last. Completely fixed my weak spark problem.

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Tinning the solder point on the dizzy plate would be difficult with a soldering iron. Hint, I used a micro torch to put pinpoint heat on the back side of the plate until solder melted onto the contact point of the front side. Here's a pic of that:

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Thanks for the pics Rand. I haven't taken the distributor apart before, so this will help. Kevin (aka Rhodyguy offered to send me what I need to fix it.

Love this place.

Thanks!!

AA lists 2. One is $30 and one is $83. Almost the same Part #. One starts with a B the other a R. Other than $53, what's the dif?

For $89 you can get a reman distributor:

https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-a...770685_454284_0

Has anyone ever actually tried one of these? I would be sceptical of things like plating and quality of components. Just curious.

Heh, just bought a brand freaking new 123 distributor myself on the group buy. But sometimes knowing how to go through an old one and getting it, is priceless.

I can't speak to the Cardone one, but I wouldn't go there when the 123 is available.

Real Bosch point plates are NLA. The AA ones are a good replacement. Used them on both of my distributor overhauls.

I've tried a few times to buy one of these from multiple sources (NAPA, Advance, AutoZone, O'Reilly's) and they always cancel my order b/c the distributor can't supply them. Word came down that they don't have the cores to build new ones, but keep them in the catalog "just in case".

All you guys that bought 123 distys should send your old ones to Cardone.