I repeatedly soaked them in PB Blaster.

There isn't any aluminum galled up in the threads, so it looks to me like they just backed out when I was removing barrel nuts.

So, what can I put them in with? Double nut them, put them in with loctite?

Advice?

-Rusty

That's how they went in.....thirty year old glue giving up the ghost....go figure.

Cheap ass Porsche shit... next time I'll buy myself a Yugo.




Hahahahhahhahhahah!

Be happy they came out and didnt break.

I wouldnt use Loctite. It wont hold up to the heat in the head.

Coat them with anti-sieze.

B

You jinxed me, Brad. I only had half of them off when I wrote that.

I didn't have much time this weekend to work on the car.

I got into it this afternoon, and discovered that putting the studs in isn't such a high priority anymore. I broke one off on the left side. Luckily, I was able to get it out with some vicious application of a pair of vice grips.

Anyone know exactly which stud that is for a 2.0 head? The PET catalog lists two studs, and I'm not sure which is which.

900 061 006 01 STUDB M8 X 20
And
900 061 008 02 STUDB M8 X 25

I'm not sure which is correct. Any advice?

-Rusty

The studs on my six engine had to be changed to longer ones to get enough thread engagement with the Bursch headers. The flanges are fairly thick.

Seems like an extra 5mm couldn't cause much harm...that's only 1/5th of an inch.

Hi Chris,

I'm putting on Bursch headers, so I might have to pull them all? Not good news at all.

Damn.

-Lawrence

Well...I can't really be sure. My motor started as a 914-6 but has had some significant work done on it and was last installed in an early 911! So although the studs were a little short for my exhaust I dunno if they were that way from the factory.

Anything special about these studs, or can I order them generic from a local parts supplier?

Looks like I'm going to have to replace two.

-Rusty

When I changed my heat exchangers, I had a few back out and 1 I had to drill out. Nothing special about them. Just don't use galvanized or cad plated, as they are not designed for hot applications.

The drill out one I had to re-tap the head and go with an oversize 8mm one side and 10mm on the other.

James

James,

Where did you get your studs? FLAPS?

Yeah, FLAPS.

The people there were clueless, but one knew where the stud box was. He took me into the back and let me find the right parts. I also picked up several of the copper exhaust nuts for the non-barrel nut applications. If you're going with the headers, do you need barrel nuts?

I don't think I paid more than $1 each for the studs. I second Brad, use anti-seize on everything. Better to have a stud back out than to have one snap off.

I did order a full set of barrel nuts from Pelican. Had to make my own 8mm "wrench". I straighten an 8mm long allen and then taped it to an 8mm socket.

James

Hi James,

I got 6 barrel nuts and 6 regular copper nuts.

It seems a good mix, and I use them depending where it would be easier to get an allen key or a 12mm box wrench inside.

I'll go to one of the more "earthier" FLAPS today... they're dirty enough that they might actually know what a stud is. They used to have a machine shop in the building.

Thanks!

-Lawrence

Back in business tonight... I just got two new studs.

thanks, James!

I can only think of 2 studs made (which is what the PET lists).

We only sell thick flange and thin flange HE's.

B

SSI now has 914/6 heat exchangers? Did I miss a press release??

No no.. not any time soon.

911 HE's are sold in thick flange and thin flange... early engines and late engines.

B

Ahhhh, thank you, Master Yoda.