How safe is it to drive with this much rust....?

And would you guys recommend undercoat or por15 for these pans.

Click to view attachment

Take surface rust to bare metal, prime, paint.
Cut out rust that has eaten through metal. Weld in replacement, prime, paint.

Painting over rust is just a waste of time and money.

If you take a screwdriver and can push through the metal or if you put your weight on the metal and it flexes and sags than it can be unsafe depending on location, structural location, or how much is like that.

Get a heavy scratch awl or ice pick. If you can poke holes in the metal, replace it.

There's some epoxies that you can use on pitted metal that's non structural, but bad floor pans really should be replaced.

I wouldn't recommend this but there was a restoration shop south of me that was restoring a 911S that had rusty but not rusted out pans. He used spray on bed-liner, said it was hard as a rock and would last 1000 years. Not sure I would trust it, but you might want to experiment with it if you don't know how to weld.

Do it correctly or wait until you can do it correctly. Half-assed measure never solve problems-they just delay the inevitable.

................"halp assed" could be just after the floor does the Fred Flintstone.

Have you or someone else already gotten all the sound proof mat off of the floor? If it is still there, get a heat gun and one of those 7 way paint spatulas. Melt and scrap it all off, then you can take the rust down to metal.

Go ahead and get all your carpet, vinyl, seats, back pad, pedal cluster, speaker pods, hand brake, seat rails, etc... out of the car. So you can get in there and of course see it all.

The POR-15 has a 3 part process, Marine Clean, Metal Ready (zinc coating) then paint. It has worked for me on several projects. The metal ready will stop the rust.

Not a restoration shop that I would ever want to use.

Por-15, imho, is crap. It will trap moisture and eventually peel.

Bring it down to bare metal, get rid of any rust, epoxy based primer.

Some resto shops have laser cleaning equipment. If the rust isn't too deep, having this done could be a solution prior to painting.
https://youtu.be/Q8q3DZB_l6M

Is POR kind of like the original sound deadening material vw used?


Does the rust oleum undercoating not prevent rust like it should? I'll stick to your guys advice and sand it down to the metal and use por or epoxy primer and sand/paint. Thanks

POR is paint. It seems that you have 2 groups. People that have used POR exactly as the instructions require. Those people are happy. Then you have people that either did not follow the directions, or they think they followed the directions. Those people are not happy with POR results.

IIRC the directions require that you scrape all the loose paint and surface rust off the work piece. Next you use the POR brand cleaner. Used to be called Marine Clean. It can be diluted to 50/50 with water. It will thoroughly clean the workpiece. Next you must use the Zinc etch that used to be called Metal Ready. Done properly the Metal Ready will etch the rust. Lastly you paint, by the letter. For those floorboards in your pictures, POR will be a solution. Then you can use B-Quiet sound deadening material and if you want you can use a spray on truck liner type material on the bottom, under the car.

1st things 1st. Remove everything off of the floor and as high up the inside as you can. Then poke and scrape with spatulas, wire brushes and grinders.

Cut rusty holes out and patch with good metal. Use seam sealer on the patch edges. (POR makes a seam sealer too). Then do the POR method.

Good luck. Do a bunch of internet searches and choose the material you think will work.

This is my rear trunk. The 1st repair I did on this car in 2011. 1st welding I had done since 1981. The nasty shot is, either metal ready or marine clean working.... bubbling, etching. Then you see the paint, then the seam sealer and a second coat. I have done the inside of 2 gas tanks with this stuff. 1 10 years ago and on my 914 4 years ago. no probs here or even in my gas tanks. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS to the letter.

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I treat rusty floors with distain.

That looks really good. It would take some work to get rid of all of the paint though. I don't have any machinery so i have to hand sand everything myself. I'll stick to your advice. I've heard a lot of negative reviews on por-15 but it's probably because they half-assed it like you said. What seam sealer did you use? How is it holding up?

https://www.por15.com/POR-PATCH_p_53.html
This is the seam sealer I used. WARNING: do not get it on your hands. It will never come off.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-43-am...nder-60625.html

You are going to need tools if you do this yourself. This is an angle grinder. I think a power sander would not be the proper tool. Get a big stack of grinding wheels for the angle grinder.

Do some searches on YouTube about rust repair, etc...

Ha! I don't see any rust....if you don't see your toes then you are doing OK.....plenty of ways to address situation.....don't worry be happy...
gg

Painted my floor pans over 10 years ago with Por15 along with other parts, including the rocker panels which see weather regularly. No issues whatsoever. But I also followed the directions and removed all of the rust first, degreased, prepped the surface with metal ready, and then applied POR15.

I chose this route because I don't have the skills or the equipment (or the $) to have painted using a paint gun.

I like to treat my floor pans rightClick to view attachment

Imho not everyone who doesn’t like por15 failed to follow directions. Product is brittle as glass, and protects only by preventing water access. So I worry about tiny cracks. Not sure how valid that worry is. Also, a relative pain to work with. That said, I have used it for small spots with success.