I'm ready to lower the engine/tranny from my 914. I've decided NOT to do the Pelican method. On my Type 3 I've lowered the engine as well as the engine and tranny using a small floor jack -- it was quite the balancing act but I've done it multiple times. I now have a standard sized floor jack (bigger saddle that is removeable) and will be using that for the drop.

The Question:
Where should I place the saddle for lowering the engine with the transaxle?

My guess would be between the engine/tranny mating and the "taco plate" (is that the right term?). I have bits of wood and scrap metal so I could either weld a custom saddle for this drop or just use some plywood between the saddle and engine/tranny. Recommendations and experiences? TIA!

I place the jack stands under the rear pick ups for the swing arms and then use a standard floor jack with a 2x3 piece of 1/2 inch plywood sitiing on top of the saddle.

Jack it up with the center of the jack about 3/4 of the way back from the front of the engine......one person (if available) watching from up top and one below controlling the jack. Slowly lower trans and engine while watching for hang ups. I use my right hand for the jack control, left hand for steading the trans by holding onto the muffler.

If the car is high enuff up.....and the rear valance is off....you should be able to slide/pull the engine straight out after removing the jack and lifting the CVs out of the way.

There's a bump/nub/protrusion on the bottom rear of the engine case. Aim the jack for that and you'll be pretty balanced.

I built an A frame that does that and the center of balence was under the penion gear on the starter or slightly to the driver side where the tranny and the engine mate. I have pictures somewhere, and its been posted as A frame.
Joe

Thanks y'all. All of them good explainations. Once mommy gets home I can pass off baby then hit the garage (must remember to disconnect fuel lines...).

Oh, is it really necessary to remove the starter?

No...but disconnect the battery, remember the ground strap on the trans, the heater cables, the throttle cable, clutch cable etc....

The fuel lines are best crimped with needle nosed vice grips AND to have a bolt shoved into the end...

No need to remove the starter.
Joe

Yeah, everything else is disconnected and labeled as necessary (hoses and wires). Not much different from the Type 3.

Joe, I recognize the yellow A-frame I remember reading about it but, heck, I think it was a long time ago... Is the A-frame balanced on the saddle landing or is it a part of the jack? For example, my jack saddle landing has a hole in it and the saddle has a peg that fits in the hole, thus the saddle won't slide around. My other, smaller, jack is similar but (of course) the hole is smaller and on that particular jack there is a cotter pin on the underside of the saddle peg to keep it from coming out of the hole.

Hmm, I didn't remove my shortie rear apron. I measured the height of the rear and it seems to measure higher than the height of the engine (rough measurements on my part, admittantly).

Toby: It bolts to the plate. That picture is Linda Horne droping her engine with the A frame (her first engine drop). It makes it posiably for me to do it without hurting myself (I have a bad back). With it you can handel the engine and trannny with one hand. It tilts and swiveles.
Joe
Here is an Air Cooled Nut

QUOTE (McMark @ Jun 1 2005, 03:38 PM)

There's a bump/nub/protrusion on the bottom rear of the engine case. Aim the jack for that and you'll be pretty balanced.

LOL! Always wondered what the hell it was... obvious now..

Good idea on the A-frame, Joeman.

The only times I helped with yanking the motors, we used 2 foot lengths of 2x6 on a floor jack, one guy balance, one guy drive.



M

Joe, I could've used your A-frame engine dropper Got the engine down using a short 2x4 and my jack. Hey, could they have designed the sides of the engine bay any tighter?

I gots lots of work ahead of me now and no money to do it Oh well, here's some pictures for y'all:
http://www.icbm.org/erkson/gallery/914-4_e...ine_drop_repair

What you needed was one of these :

Cheater! You can use replicas of factory tools. We're reinventing the wheel here!