I'm finding contradictory information online about which kind of rear main seal I should use when we go in to fix the oil leaks. VW, Sabo? We'll be swapping the transaxle anyway, and investigating the clutch slipping. Are there any new findings about which kind doesn't leak oil?

I guess this should be called "engine to flywheel" seal instead of "rear" since it would face the front on a VW bus.

i used an ehrling, 2 years no problems

The only one I could find that was the correct size was Sabo, I get them from gowesty.com

After blowing a rear main on initial startup of a fresh rebuild, I researched and found that SABO seems to be "the best."

Black or orange? Which is which?

The SABO I installed was black.

Sabo. Period!

I am pretty sure mine is Ehrling, 4+ years now, no leaks- did this when I did full clutch job and transmission rebuild from Dr. Evil clinic-

Dr. Phil

gowesty.com has the one you want. Here's an article they wrote about the RMS

http://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=60

interesting read Perry - so it will be interesting to see if my new RMS on the boxster will last or how long, just did the clutch and IMS , it took it in thinking I had an RMS leak but it was not leaking , it was leaking from the IMS seal , but while we did all that work the shop wanted to know if I wanted to do a new RMS since the flywheel was being replaced too- so I said yes thinking new would be better and old original will start to leak - I might be wrong depending on which seal they used! ugh. time will tell! I have no idea which brand they used- hope it was OEM or the Brazil one!

Just did my clutch a couple weeks ago. After reading about it on GoWesty, I ordered their Sabo.
Definitely a nice part, much larger contact surface to the engine block. Flywheel mating surface needs to be smooth.
Time will tell...

Ordered. Thanks for the help.

Resurrecting this thread for a question.
I got the Sabo brand rear main seal. Should it be set flush with the case as the old seal?

Yes, flush with the case

@IronHillRestorations

bump on this thread , it came up as i was re-reading this due to new leak. forgot posting on this 5 years ago, that was my original motor and it stayed leak free for 4 years until i dropped a valve seat, at which point we pulled the motor(still leak free) and the heads to have them rebuilt, fast forward a year and a half later that motor is still sitting, we built a new 2.1 and on that motor i had a leak after 6 months, so i pulled the trans to find a leak from trans output shaft seal and the IMS, and the clutch was a mess so in went a new RMS i got from LN, and new trans seal. Recent leak seems to be oil not trans so looks like i am pulling this motor with only 2500 miles on it to investigate, but it seems likely this is a leaking RMS again, after only 9 months and maybe 1500 miles since last spring.

I am going to pull it this weekend, but any advice? what am i looking at or for? why
the heck would my RMS be leaking again? Ive also read that some people will shorten the spring to get a tighter seal, anyone else see this? That Ehrling seal on the other motor held fine, no issue. This is a new build with all new inner bearnings new cam new crank, new every thing 18 months ago. Maybe i need to double check the crank end play. seems unlikely that i would have excess crank motion but have heard that will cause a leaking rms. btw the front seal appears dry.

Thanks if anyone can commend id appreciate it.

Phil

Is the seal you got from LN the Sabo as discussed above?

No, LN carries VR. Pretty sure i put in the 12mm seal in this motor when i did it just 9 months ago. I will verify all when i pull it this weekend, but it might just be the galley plug or it could be leaking from the seal/case interface, will see what it looks like when i pull the flywheel.

Still searching for a Sabo if i can find one . I just ordered an Ehrling from Pelican just in case.