QUOTE(UROpartsman @ Feb 15 2018, 02:05 PM)
QUOTE(Optimusglen @ Feb 15 2018, 10:39 AM)
I'd be very concerned about galling of the threads, better hope you never have to remove those unless you went nuts with anti seize. Even if you did, I'd be a little worried.
^X2. Also, check and see if common stainless studs are strong enough to handle the thermal expansion and contraction, they're just a bit stronger than grade 2 hardware, which is why you never see stainless used for suspension parts.
Thermal properties are another consideration, will stainless nuts on stainless studs stay tight when heat cycled? Stainless transmits heat very poorly, which is why it warps so bad when it's welded (unless done properly by a knowledgeable welder) and why it burns up drill bits (the heat remains at the point of the drill bit and anneals its cutting edges). If you need a metal that acts as an insulator (such as heat shields), stainless is a great choice.
Couple of things here:
When you drill stainless you are work hardening the metal. That is why it burns out bits. Nothing to due with temperature. It has tondo with the steel's physical properties. Cutting speed and cutting head angle are critcal to not overwork the metal as it is being cut. What is happening is that the carbon grains are parcipitating out towards the edges of the grain bounderies. Diamonds are pure carbon and we all know how friggen hard those are.
When welding and due to the cyrstaline nature of metals is unique to the alloy. As the metal cools and depending on the rate of cooling this adds "induced" stress. Again depending on the alloy stainless has a tendency to stress and cool at different rates intergranulary which causes the warping. This can be relieved by uniformly heating or mechanicaly. Gotta be careful about mechanicaly relieving stainless.....see comment above...you can change its mechanical properties.
What I remember from my strength of materials stuff and from some experience. Ethan may know more he is the ME.