Hi RangerDick -
Glad to hear that you're keeping your Dad's car in the family & original - it looks like a nice survivor for sure! Try to not do anything non-reversible, with a survivor like that though.
I see you have Rich Bontempi's plate frames on the car, so he can help you with suggestions for performance, handling, etc. - as both a great 914 mechanic & former 914 racer. There are a bunch of other 914world members up in the Bay Area too, who can help with your question.
Shocks/Struts are replacement/wear items, & it was common to put in better ones when the time came - as I did on my rolling resto/mech-rebuild in 1980-83 when I put in Koni Reds on all 4 corners. So they wouldn't be an originality problem.
You'll need the front struts which are made to fit the front struts on your car - which were mostly Boge type from the factory, & they make both Koni & Bilstein inserts to fit in them (as well as Boge) - unless your Dad ordered or got the optional Koni or Bilstein struts - in which case you'll need to stick with either of those brands respectively. Again, check with Rich.
Personally, I preferred the overall handling of the old school Koni Reds which I got, over the Bilsteins or stock Boges, after driving friends' 914s with Koni & Bilstein shocks/struts, as well as to the original Boges on mine since I bought it from the OO in `75 (I'll have Koni restore mine for my current resto).
Nor would turbo-tie-rods as wear items/upgrades be an originality problem, which I too will be doing for my resto coming up too.
You may want to add a bump-steer kit if you notice that problem driving it after the suspension renovation, but I'd wait to try it out first without the kit (mine wasn't a problem before nor after).
However, I would reconsider the poly-bronze bushings though, because I think that will give you too harsh of a ride for all other uses not at AX/Track times. There are good poly street & race/AX poly bushings out there, so check with Rich at HPH for his reccos. The race ones will be much stiffer & give you somewhat harsher street ride - so you may not want to go to them for regular driving comfort (especially if you plan to bring wife/GF/SO, kids, other non-racer friends, etc. along for the street rides.
The tires also play an important part in the 914's suspension & driving habits, so you may want to stick with stock-ish tire sizes of 165HR15 (165/80R15) or 185/70HR15 (TR & VR speed ratings also work for a 2.0 /4) - both to keep a comfortable ride for others - if not yourself, as well as to avoid adding odometer error "ghost mileage" to your 914 (as well as speedo error for cops), as happens with other sizes like 195/65R15 etc. Then get another set of 4 light wheels & high performance tires of your choice which will fit & not rub in lock-to-lock steering/etc. for AX/Track purposes - especially since you'll wear through tires faster doing that.
In all cases, use a tire size calculator to compare other tire sizes with the stock 165/80R15 on 914s in order to minimize your speedo error to <1% or so, to avoid adding non-existent miles to the car - even when doing AX/Track events.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalcBack in my 1980-83 rolling resto/rebuild i had all 4 corners of the suspension redone with the Konis, but I stuck with factory bushings which were still available back then in street or "performance" flavors & IIRC we went with the perf. ones - but then it ws my DD & I never AXed in it, but did do some fun/hard twisties driving..
Additionally, it looks like your front suspension is still a bit higher that Euro spec, so you can vastly improve balance & handling by dropping it another 1/2" - 1" or so - again ask Rich to adjust the front torsion bars to drop it, or show you how.
The past engine rebuild to the Euro spec 8:1 CR P&Cs for 100 HP was common - especially after CA passed the older classics smog exemption (& before in the other 49 states), so that's not an issue in most cases either, especially if it were rebuilt with a Porsche P&C kit/parts.
I may do mine that way if it ever needs another engine rebuild (mine was rebuilt in 83 to stock (well, honed with a tad more cc's), but only had +/- 20K miles on it when it got whacked while parked in a parking structure in 85
- so it's just going to get "recommissioned" & cleaned up for this resto).
Also - regarding cosmetics:
If the interior upholstery/carpet & paint are all original - or at least 75% or more original - then I'd advise trying to do whatever you can to keep it that way, & restore the paint finish yourself or with a concours paint pro (check around with your PCA Region/Zone Concours folks for reccos on that). It looks like the front lid may have some oxidation & maybe the rear lids too - so try to have them carefully take out the oxidation so it will match closer to the less exposed side panels/etc. They can also touch-up the paint chips around the wheels wells, door(s), etc. - without going into non-original paint status.
A well refurbished original paint & interior will both retain more value, & qualify the car for Preservation Class in the PCA & other Concours events (even if you don't do them). But if it's been resprayed already in it's lifetime, then you're free to repaint if/as needed, but keep the original factory delivered color.
Have Fun!
Tom
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