There is a 3/8” gap between the front edge of the glass and the targa top rubber seal.
Car is a ‘75
Can the the glass be adjusted to close this gap ? How.

Jim,
What does the window look like when not against the rubber?
Just trying to see if it's fully extended into the triangle window cap.

Also what does this look like on the outside?

Hey Jim,
There is a window height adjustment on the underside of the door toward the front.
There should be a slotted screw in the middle of a 8mm locknut (13mm wrench).
Undo the locknut and turn the screw until the window closes correctly.
I have the early doors which have the cable lifters, but the later doors function the same even with the later scissor lift mechanism.

Thanks Mike, I take it the door panel has to be removed to do the adjustment ?

No, it is on the bottom of the door between the weatherstripping.

The adjusters are detailed in your Haynes Jim. If the screws are rusted up you will have to remove the door card to get some penetrant in there. That would be the time to replace the vapor barriors. If you might want some 6 mil plastic let me know and I'll cut you enough off of the roll I have to do both doors.

Yes, the glass is fully extended into the window cap. If I open the door and crank the window shut, then close, I can narrow the gap

Looks like the front seal is wonky and causing the gap

Is your door sagging?

Got it, looks like the seal is not perfectly seated, but not seeing that its pressing down to hold the window out. I suspect that it woukd be an adjustment.

Also Jim thought i got you one of the maintenance CDs. There is a section in windows dealing with the adjustments. PM me if you want me send you one.

Also this is one of my 1st gen seals, hit me up ilk give you a screaming deal on a 3rd gen. There are some improvements that will make it look better as well as work a little better too.

Sir Jim, check your rear window alignment with the window jam seal, if not straight, you can adjust the rear window lower so when you close it all the way up, it will align.
And yes you have to remove your door card/cover to be able to adjust.

I have the same issues on my windows. It drives me bonkers.

Could someone post a picture of where the adjuster screw is?
It seems like this is something I should know, but I don't.
Zach

hole in the bottom of the door near the front.

OK, I surrender. LOOK on page 205 of your Haynes manual. It's ALL right there. The rear channel guide info is on page 204. When the door cards are off it's the PERFECT opportunity to do the vert weather strips on later doors. End caps too. If you drop the small fasteners with the cards on you'll be pulling cards again.

Here you go...

Is that screw adjustment used to regulate the height and the fire/aft position of the pillar ?
How does tha triangular piece come off; I know mine is an aftermarket piece and seems a touch too big ?

On top of the post? Roll the window down and you'll see the fasteners.

What seal are you using?

I've had trouble with this ever since replacing my windshield/A-pillar during the last paint job with a new factory seal. Have adjusted and adjusted. Friend has same issue, and says it is due to the durometer of the new factory seals being too hard to let the door go into the channel like it should. I think he said 914Rubber's seal is softer and better.

I got it better, but it still isn't right.

Note that the 70-72 window adjustment is pretty different than the 73+ one. Looks like the pics above are from a 73+ car.

--DD

Unless your '73 car, like mine, is running "72" doors, windows, targa top, etc from the factory. It's one of the first 200 cars for MY1973. Curious when the switch-over happened.

Wait, I thought that the early 73s had the scissor-type lifts but no door bars? Maybe there were a run of those after your car, but still early in the 73 model year?

--DD

I have heard both, 72 doors on early 73 cars and early 73 doors without the door bars.

It certainly could be both.
The earliest 73's had 72 doors with the early cable type window regulators.

And then the next group of 73's got later doors with scissor type window regulators but no impact bar in them.

And then the next group of 73's got late doors with the imapact bars.

My 73 has late doors with impact bars.

Jim

My 73 is an April car and seems to have been born during a lot of switching over:

- Late doors with scissor lifts and reinforcement bars
- Black plastic threshold plates
- Early window cranks
- Silver dot instruments
- bright metal windshield washer nozzles

My 73 is an October 72 car and seems to have been born before a lot of switching over:

- Late doors with scissor lifts and no reinforcement bars
- Aluminum threshold plates
- Early window cranks
- Silver dot instruments
- bright metal windshield washer nozzles


Never heard of a 73 with cable lifts....how much earlier than October 72 did they make 73's??

^ This is as I have understood it. My car is 00193, and is in the first group mentioned above.

So far as I have been able to tell, it came with:
-1972 doors with cable window regulators/rollers/rubber
-1972 Targa top
-1972 engine lid and rain tray
-1972 headlight switch
-Silver dot gauges
-Aluminum doorsill thresholds + door seal hold-downs
-Bright metal windshield washer nozzle covers

I think that's everything 1972 that I've found so far, but I feel like I am forgetting something. The only thing that was distinctly 1973 was the side-shift transmission—probably the best "one 1973 thing" if you only get one.

Alan Caldwell had an early 73 2-liter that he ordered new. The transmission was a side-shifter with a tail-shift end-cone.

--DD

Getting back to the original problem I have also struggled with the window parts not lining up. I have made many adjustments and pretty much gave up and purchased one of Perry's umbrella covers if it has to sit out in the rain. And have been carrying a towel. Long before Arthur Dent.

I was hoping this thread would come up with the Ultimate Answer to this problem.





My '73 had a build date of 9/72 #2387 and is the same as above.

also early rain tray, gas cap and probably other things.



When my side shifter trans was done Dr. Evil noticed that the syncro bits were early parts. same as in the tail shifters

+1. I've tried repeatedly to get that "perfect fit" that is totally waterproof. Without lots of success. The drive back from Hershey last year required a couple of towels.

I felt slightly better when a member here who is the original owner of his said they were never 100% watertight even brand new. Between seals, window rollers, door adjustments, window adjustments, targa adjustments, etc.. etc. there lots of things to go wrong. I've redefined "success" now as keeping most of the rain out, and I try to use Perry's cover before a good rain or snow.

The roof and seals on the 914 (and proper alignment thereof ) are to say the least difficult. If you make one adjustment the other seems to move to requiring more twerking. I'm on the road now but if I had my maint manual I'd post up the factory adjustment points. there's not much as far as technique offered, but you can see the geometry changes.

One VERY large part is installation of the seals -
One of the biggest culprits is the seal on the roof that touches the top of the window.

The biggest problem I see with the seals is that most people try to pull the seals on the roof at the top of the window. Yes they can be pulled through the track, and you think that you have relieved all the tension, but in a month or more, the vibration / expansion and contraction will eventually allow the runner to return to the unstretched shape. Rubber has memory, and will do this, so even a small amount of stress will eventually cause this seal to mysteriously shrink.
The only way to avoid this is to install the outside edge 1st and them press in the inner edge. I making the seal about 1/4" longer than you think you will need. Install the roof and try to close the front latch. You will notice the seal will "beer can"or crumple in. Take a carpet knife and warm soapy water and shave off up to 1/8" and re try. Continue the process until you can see that seal is actually making contact and is under pressure, but not so much that it deforms the seal. This will allow for the best possible fit.

^ Good info. Makes me want to drive hundreds of miles and visit you just to buy your seal and have it installed right.

Since you're on the road, the factory adjustment points can be found here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2000174

They helped me improve the situation. No longer leaks water, or much water, I should say—but the wind noise remains awful in a car that used to be really nice that way.

Thanks