how do you remove the roll pin on the pedal cluster?
i ruined one set using hammer and heat. (bent the main shaft)
is it possible to drill out the old roll pin?
thanks in advance.

Send it to Bruce Stone and let him refurbish your assembly.

OR

Use a drill bit about half the diameter of the pin. Drill the core of the pin out so the spring will relax a little then press it out or use a hammer and punch

Pin is hardened steel so good luck drilling it,have you tried some more then chill it heat,works about 80% + most of the time on seized stuff,take your time and use good square ended punches,good luck.

Any sort of restoration work can be fun but when there are skilled sources (like Bruce Stone) there is no shame in letting a veteran tackle the job.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=65920

Click to view attachment

Broke a few tools trying to get the thing out myself. Then got wise and dropped it off at a machine shop that removed it for me for free.
Even if they would've charged me, can't imagine it would've been much.

The cluster is easy to rebuild once that pin is out.

Impact hammer with a pointy tip will get it started. Hammer, punch and penetrating oil will get it the rest of the way. I spent hours trying to hammer it out, and then could not believe how easy it was once I thought to use the impact hammer.

Yes send it to Bruce unless you really like doing this kind of thing. The pedal cluster sucks to rebuild. Bruce does them all the time.

Impact hammer is not a bad idea if you want to DIY but if your pin is stuck or rusted badly it's a PITA to get out.

Sometimes the clutch pedal arm is difficult to get off the cross-shaft even when the spiral pin is out.

BTW, if you do drill or partly drill out the pin, replace it with a spiral pin. A traditional roll pin is not strong enough and it will fail, usually within a month or two. The WM brass bushing set used to come with a regular roll pin, and failure was very common. Not sure if they have improved that now.

--DD

This really is an easy, fun and rewarding project once you get the roll-pin out. Just use the air hammer and the circled attachment, and it will come right out.

Click to view attachment

I first soaked my assembly in phosphoric acid over night then used the tool mentioned above. Was able to separate the roll pin but had to finish it off with a punch. Still can't seperate the shaft. I then used an ultrasonic cleaner on it and the Cllutch pedal moves pretty freely but the brake pedal is still frozen. Put an impact hammer on it and still won't separate the shaft. . Might just have to buy a rebuilt one. Looks like the PO used brass bushing when he rebuilt it.

THANKS a million for all the advice. I will soak it in Acetone and ATF overnight and try the air impact wrench before drilling for a whole day. After replacing the bushings for the accelerator pedal, I know it has to be done for the car to be right. The KEP adapter is really nice and i temporarily bolted in the flywheel to see what kind of starter will turn over the 302 engine.
Tommy in Bayou Country

Good to see another local member. I’m just on the other side of the river if you need any help or moral support

I just got my pin out. I let the pedal cluster soak in an electrolysis bath for 2 days pulling off rust. I drilled out the end of the pin just to make sure there was no mushroomed lip, let it sit with Liquid Wrench for a couple of hours. I tried heat a punch and a big hammer to no avail. The punch couldn't sit nicely on the hollow pin. So I dropped a tiny round-head bolt into the hole so that the head matched the pin diameter and pounded it right out.

Now I have to figure out how to get the shaft out of the pedal.

You guys are doing things the hard way.