I am starting a restoration in the next few weeks. Both longs are getting repaired first and whatever surprise these bring. I have door braces ready. I want to build a dolly so that I can move the car in the garage. Building it out of 2x6's that I have. Ordered 6 steel swivel casters, 4 with brakes, each rated for 385 lbs for a total of 2310 lbs. Plans is to bolt together two vertical 2x6 boards for the length and one for the width attached with 2 lag screws into each 2x6 side. I have corner metal hangers to reinforce the corners if necessary. The wheels and 2x6 on the side are 10 inches tall. Plan is to have 2 2x4's on the flat screwed in as necessary for the car to sit on. Might stack two of them to get more height. Plan is to support the car under the rear and front fire walls.

Does all this make sense? I want to top of the dolly to be modular so that I can move the support 2x4's as necessary. Here is a basic schematic of what I am trying to do. Click to view attachment

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Does this help? It's made out of 4x 4s for strength

This is genius! About to do some outer wheel house repair and installing brads stiffening kit. This will help a ton. May just use fHF dollys bolted together and using 4x4s to reach the height required

Built a simple dolly out of 4x4's, 2x4's, lag screws, wheels from Harbor freight.
Cheap, simple and easy to build.
Only put swivel wheels on one end of the dolly.
If I had it to do again, I'd put the swivel wheels on all 4 corners.

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Definitely helps with the width and general dimensions. In my case I am pretty sure those support points your design uses will be getting replaced

This is exactly what I have in mind. What part of the body does the rear sit on? Can I do this and keep the motor in the car?

I believe the cross pieces pretty much sit underneath the chassis "donuts."

And yes, you should be able to keep the motor in the car no problem....unless it's so heavy it wants to tip backwards, if you get my drift?
Clearance-wise....not issue, weight distribution and balance point....I'm not sure.

2x10's on edge with 7/16 plywood gussets on the corners with harbor freight casters screw to them... super cheep and easy to move around. I think steel caster would be a mistake as they hang up on every little thing. Rubber is much more forgiving. I've wheeled mine on and off the tilt trailer numerous times solo.Click to view attachment

Swivel wheels on all four sides, get the ones with brakes. and if you can lock them straight ahead, better yet.

Cut the grooves in the 2x4s with a table saw. then its not resting on the seam.

eye bolts on the sides so you can strap the body to the cart. They were not installed yet in these pictures.

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The main thing with wood is that the joints don’t lend themselves to resisting racking forces. Not enough plywood gets used IMHO. My TR6 was held up for several years with half inch plywood. Strength to spare. Wood can be very strong. Good luck!

Double post. Sorry.