My trunk opens (& always has) into the small grill sections either side of the decklid.

rubber mark has some angled rubbers for a bracket in this area but i cannot find in google images any pictures with this bracket fitted.

Can someone show me this on their car?

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No idea why the images are offset, they're normal on my phone.

I think the angled rubber piece you mention is the one that goes on the ENGINE cover and keeps that from hitting the trunk lid when both are open. It mounts under the trailing edge on the driver side using one of the rain tray bolts.

From your description, your problem seems to be that the trunk opens too far (or is not adjusted properly?). The stop for the trunk hinges may be played out. Check the little stop-strap connected to the hinge (in the third picture), which I believe is the mechanism that keeps the trunk from opening too far.

Good luck

I'll post up some pictures here for clarification as soon as I get back into the office in about a half hour. Thanks Mark

Are you talking about the little rubber bumpers in the hinges that stop the lid from opening too far, or the L-shaped piece that hangs from the engine lid and is held in place by the metal angle bracket?

These photos show the L-shaped piece well:
http://dealeraccelerate-all.s3.amazonaws.c...239_dsc0455.jpg
https://ccpublic.blob.core.windows.net/cc-t...e-914-6-std.jpg

That L-shaped piece only comes into play if you open the engine lid first and then open the rear trunk lid. The L rubber piece keeps the engine lid from contacting the outside of the rear trunk lid, and marking the paint.

Perfect pictures to identify the rubbers that mark has.

Seems I'm going to need to fabricate some kind of bracket to stop the trunk hinges from raising to far and crushing the side grill parts.

I just looked at a rear trunk lid on the car and raised it to the highest that it would raise to, and I did not see it getting at all close or the side grills in the back.
The pic shows the lid open and the distance from the grill opening.
The only thing I can think of is the hinge may be broken or very sloppy. It should move further away from the grille rather than closer when opening the trunk lid.
Craig at CAMP

Pic

I had the same problem on my 71.I even had new pivots welded on .I ended up shortening the flat straight piece that pivots and stops the trunk hinge from contacting the bottom of the end grills.

I have the deck lid bumper. If it's the L shaped one -
https://shop.914rubber.com/Rubber-bumper-to...m?categoryId=-1

As well as the ones that go on the hinges.
https://shop.914rubber.com/Engine-Deck-Lid-...m?categoryId=-1


I'm sure URO will be knocking them off soon so I'll offer 20% off what you can buy the URO part at. Just let me know when you find it.

By the way both of the pics are my part I can tell from the tool marks

Very helpful thanks for this tip. I'll try it and see how it works.

The hinges on the deck lid can be bend slightly to accommodate a flush close.

Paranoia and conspiracy theories aside, the truth is we never made that bumper because 914rubber already made it. There is virtually zero profit in developing an inexpensive 914 item that already exists in the aftermarket, and any duplication is simply because we were unaware that someone else was developing the same item at the same time.

Our business and marketing plan is to develop good parts, show their features and benefits, and sell the items at a good price.

Others might think a marketing campaign of bashing competitors is an easier and better plan, and they're certainly free to do so. But that usually backfires in most industries, and the private messages and emails we've received from 914world members confirms this. Carry on.

and that is the car we did, a 3.6 conversion to a 73 914. Fast car

You do a great job, Drew, and are a very important player in the market. If not for your organization we would all be very hurting for parts. Keep up the good work, and I appreciate the fact that you are not duplicating what is already out there in this small market called Porsche

I seem to remember a thread where I had a GB you specifically listed your product on. Make no mistake. URO says one thing and does another.

And by the way, is it paranoia if they ARE out to get you?

I'll leave it at that.

^ Yep, that post was made nearly three years ago, by an employee who unwittingly broke etiquette. There's no disputing that a mistake was made that day.

Our goal is to do our best to do better.

Okay, to get away from the URO pissing match. I looked again at the pics you provided, and one thing that I now see is that you are missing the rear trunk lid springs. This will allow, the trunk lid to open further, and if there is any misalignment in the hinge, or the flat strap on the hinge is not secure that could allow the lid to hit the grilles.
Craig at CAMP

It looks to me like the hinge pivots may have been replaced a little too high and a little too far forward but it is tough to tell in the pictures.
Also the pivots in my car in the garage are both torn loose and not much good for reference.

Jim

I'm redoing my deck lid on the 72 this next week. I'll get you some shots with the early rain tray installed.

More advice and opinions on this problem.

The trunk had the springs on originally when i bought the car but the hinges still crushed the side grills on both sides. One bracket had a partially poor repair, it was riveted on one side of one hinge, but i welded it and removed the rivets.


Would be nice to see better pictures of a correctly function hinge/trunk.

here's a picture of mine. It was properly adjusted to close and had been repaired on the passenger side at one time. the key is the brackets have a solid mount and no flex. as well as being aligned. If you have rust at the mount point it will need to be repaired prior to reinstalling the bracket as it may have enough flex to cause the problem you are mentioning. here's mine.

The pictures aren't great as I didn't intend them for this purpose, but hope this helps

I have included some pics of a car at CAMP. Plus a loose hinge showing the flat metal strap.
Craig at CAMP

Thanks mark but they're the wrong points/hinges i'm having problems with. It's the trunk lid not the deck lid

Pics
Craig at CAMP

Pics
Craig at CAMP

Sorry im way off

Reviving an older thread. My rear trunk stops mostly before it hits the engine grill areas. I know both my stops are probably worn. I could take them off, weld a bit, grind and file and put back on.

Anyone making these? Would be nice to limit the up travel of the rear trunk. I'm worried my hand will slip just that one time.

It really is as simple as that flat metal strap that controls the opening height.

I just mounted my truck hinges so I'm very familiar with them. One other thing you might be able to check is the body side attachment that the strap mounts to. Looks like this:

Click to view attachment

You might see if you can bend the body side bracket slightly. It should be about 90 degrees from vertical but over time it may be getting yanked upwards deforming the body side attachment upward.

From picture, you can see my take off part was tipped up slightly (and stripped to boot!). When I remade the pivot pin for mine, it tweaked the bracket back to 90 degrees, and then did mock-up of everything before I decided on final position to weld the hinges and this travel limiter bracket. You won't have that luxury but you can probably get some minor improvement by tweaking the bracket. Or just fix your strap, or buy a used one if you're shows heavy wear.

@Root_Werks

Posting an update to this thread.

Pulled the limit straps off and measured the end-to-end. Probably more like 3 3/16" because of the ink pen. I think I'll weld up to reduce the travel by 1/8".

Unless anyone has done something different or better? Can't find new straps, that would be nice.

Good info and great picture. My strap bases are in very good shape and tight against the body.

If anyone embarks on making the strap travel shorter, 3" works. The hinge still touches the grills, barely and doesn't seem to push up on them at all. I would say strap limit travel would start at least 3" from end to end.

Crappy picture, I still need to replace the rubber stops.