For stock, street driven cars, the factory D-Jet is pretty well-regarded as a proven system to get smooth operation and good gas mileage for the regular driver. So why dump it? Primarily because of concerns about how a new MPS is $1K and how the advances in aftermarket PEFI are so 'inexpensive' and use modern technology and are ‘better’.

For tinkerers, those with non-stock engines, turbos, etc, PEFI is great and is a great option, but for most of us with stock 914 engines, D-Jet works great.

I have been thinking about this for awhile and wanted to post this for your $9.14 opinions. D-Jet is a fuel-only system, so lets not even discuss any system that does more than D-Jet…no turbos, no ignition control, yada yada. The rhetorical topic is ‘Whats the minimum we need to simply and reliably replace D-Jet when it no longer becomes a viable system?’. I think that D-Jet will only become non-viable when the major parts either become unavailable or when they become more expensive to replace than a replacement EFI system would cost to install. We are not at that point in time yet.

We don’t need to consider costs of the induction manifolds, AAR, throttle body, filter housing, fuel pump, FP regulator, relays, vacuum hoses, gaskets, fuel injectors, TS1 and TS2 sensors, fuel hoses, fuel filters…We are comparing basic D-Jet to some other system and these would be needed with any FI system, do not wear out or are regular maintenance or consumable items.

1. If your D-Jet is functioning well, you have no reason for concern. Enjoy it as long as it lasts.

2. If your D-Jet needs replacement main parts, then here is the magnitude of your potential worries as of today. By simply replacing some or all of these parts, your D-Jet needs no tuning. It is Plug N Play and reliable. These parts are all available:

$200 Rebuilt MPS
$140 New TPS
$140 New Trigger points
$340 New FI harness (less to repair yours if it is repairable)

$820 Total for all the big expensive main parts and chances are you wouldn’t need all these at any one time. Even if you do, for a $1000 you could reinstall that box of removed FI D-Jet parts back on your engine, with all new main parts and hoses, yada yada, have a stock system and be driving today. No tuning. Increase or maintain your 914s resale value with the stock D-Jet.

3. So then I recently looked at SDS which is perhaps the least costly PEFI on the market from a reputable manufacturer. Warranty, tech help, replacement parts, relatively easy to install and program. Other systems from Haltech, Link, etc, are similar, or more sophisticated, cost more and maybe more than needed for a stock engine. SDS is just the baseline example I have used for comparison. The SDS EM-4D is a fuel only, programmable EFI, basically a suitable aftermarket replacement to D-Jet, but you have to program it to your engines specific needs. I like the non-laptop programming add-on box because 10 years from now when you or the next owner needs to reprogram it, you won’t have to worry about that old laptop working. The harnesses it comes with are basic but functional, so add casing and rubber boots at each component for a durable install. This system could be installed to be very stealthy for those wanting a very original looking engine bay.

$850 EM-4D system
$150 TPS and MAP sensors
$150 Shrink tube casing/rubber boots for harness, misc items
$350 LM-1 or equivalent cost for dyno time
So SDS installed and tuned is at least $1500. out of pocket including your full hourly rate of $0 per hour for R&D, adapter bracket fabrication and labor. You will probably need a few days time at least to make it work.

4. MegaSquirt is maybe the most inexpensive system to buy, but fully installed, with dyno or LM-1 tuning costs, with a decent harness, and not including your labor to make it all happen, MS must still be around a Grand. And that for an 'experimental' system with no warranty, and no one to service it if it breaks.

So as I see it we should still be able to keep D-Jet alive for awhile longer. PEFI for a stock 914 engine only becomes reasonable and necessary when the price of the major parts at least doubles from what they are now, or they become completely unavailable and even then, only if your D-Jet needs all those replacement main parts at one time.

Or unless you just WANT it.

Nice write-up Jeff. I think that plugging in those D-Jet replacement parts would only be half the battle as well. Those are the biggest and most expensive parts that are almost always failing. But failing FP regulators, worn distributors, bad sensors and even the occasional failed ECU would come into play quite often. Imagine if there were stock engine baselines for something like the KitCarlson injection or MegaSquirt. You buy the system, you build or buy a wiring harness, plug it in, put in proven data points and you're on your way. I think the cost of aftermarket FI is quite low now and the cost of D-Jet is quite high now. The missing piece of this puzzle is a catalog of baseline FI data. I agree that if you've got a running car keep what works. But if you're starting with little or no FI, it's better to go aftermarket. But, fix D-Jet or go aftermarket, it's such a close call it comes down to personal preference. Both paths have equal amounts of pros and cons.

With all the recent D-jet discussions this is a nice topic.

I have 2 vehicles with D-jet and they both run good, although I think the 914 runs a little rich. At this point I have enough knowledge invested in knowing the system that I will use it as long as I can.

I will just keep picking up extras as others get rid of their d-jet.

Of course when the 2L isn't big enough any more i will have to do something else.

QUOTE

For stock, street driven cars

well, there's a key.

the stock D-Jet is very well balanced for its assumptions of displacement and volumetric efficiency. but fewer people are able to resist the siren song of headwork, hotter cams, and more displacement. one of the reasons to be tempted away from D-Jet is an engine rebuild that strays from the original factory stock concept.

I like the concept of Megasquirt and I am going to try it.

Good discussion Jeff, but I am not so sure on your estimate for the cost of Megasquirt. We recently had a Barbecue in Phoenix where Gerard (3d914) shared his experience with Megasquirt (see his postings on this site). He is running a 2.0L with Euro Pistons and a Web cam, oh he also has a AC unit. He likes the tunability of the Megasquirt.

He says his Megasquirt converson was only $350 or so. He is using stock sensors except for the throttle sensor and no O2 sensor. One of his conversion requirements was keeping the ability to convert back to D-Jet. When Megasquirt II is available later this summer, my guess that the cost of the basic system will drop. You can now buy the complete ECU kit for only $145. Assembled for $250 or so.

Yes, Megasquirt is "experimental," but there are thousands of users world wide and there is an huge body of information available on the internet. MS is used on boats, motorcycles, street cars, and race car applications. Plus there are numerous individules willing to share. I am going to put a MS system on my 1.7L. I like the idea of plugging in the laptop and "seeing" what is going on with the motor. Plus I hope to upgarde to a 2056 and add AC (Phoenix, its a dry heat ya know, but it still gets damn hot) and want the ability to tune for that.

Gerard is playing with this system right now to see if there are ways to improve the mileage. His car is a daily driver and with gas prices where they are and are heading, he feels MS can help him achieve even better mileage than stock or what he is now getting.

One more item of consideration, MS and other after market systems off some flexability. If you want to make changes to your motor: bigger pistons, cam, headers, or whatever, you have the ability to tune and make adjustments. D-Jet is workable on a 2056 with a "mild" cam from what I read, but the idle is rough.

D-Jet was state of the art technology for our cars when there were produced. Today technology has advanced. When we have a chance to improve the driveability and reliability of our cars for a reasonable cost, why not.

I'll add to the pot here. Replacement parts for DJET are spendy, and lately being able to get all the parts new are starting to really dry up. So you are at a point of using "used" parts to keep it tip top. Sure the aftermarket FI is quite an investment and "you" maybe the only person to easily tune the car from that point forward (but DJET is in the same boat, lots of shops will not touch 914s, and know less than us regular guys). If you convert, the sky is the limit to switch over to newer, more available and cheaper components, injectors, map sensors, ignition etc. I think once you have converted and figured out the nuances of the new FI, life keeping your car running can get a whole lot easier.

They used to call my brother one way. He could tow his Harley to an event and ride it home or ride it there and tow it home.
I've spent so much money on a (D-Jet) hobbie car that I could have done a -6 conversion.
Nether of you have addressed the frustration of the continual brake down of a bad system.
My learning curve was straight up, when Carerror is at 12.5 AFR at WOT and I shift into second and the AFR goes to 13.2 the front tires almost come off the ground. Great power but it will be the last D-Jet for me. When is it going to quit and leave me stranded again?
My cars new parts.
MPS, CHT, TPS, TRIGGER POINTS, BOWLSBY LOOM, VACUME HOSES
Lindas cars new parts.
MPS, CHT TRIGGER POINTS, ECU, BOLWSBY LOOM, VACUME HOSES
Enthier of these cars can be driven to the events without a problem.
These two cars have equaled hours and hours of frustration for 2 car oweners and 2 machinecs.
I'm not a C/W and I think in the feature that only they will have D-Jet.
This weekend Linda is going to order carbs because she wants to take her car to 914 events and be able to drive it home.
Jeff, you are the D-Jet Ru Myself and 2 machanics can't keep her car running. She got her car home from the WCC but it has not worked sence. So another D-Jet is going into boxs.
As for myself I'm going to A/X Carerror untill I deside I need more power and then it will get a -6. They put a permanent grin on your face.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe
P.S. four new injectors each car thanks Mike

What about those pesky $80 injectors?

$80? last I saw at the usual supsects was over a bill each, uggh

The thing about Djet is that its so simple and to some degree tuneable. yeah, you can't use a laptop to tune it but they weren't invented yet when Djet came out.

What is up with Lindas car?? I do have the Janbo tester back in this area if you want to use it, it can be send to you. Any moron or mechanic can use it to troubleshoot the Djet.

Has anybody considered using the injection system from a VW Vanagen?

The SDS isn't the cheapest right now. The Perfect Power unit is $675, and it has a MAP sensor in it. The TPS sensor isn't required, nor is the LM-1. You can use the $200 Innovate LC-1 (headless unit) and plug it into the Perfect Power to datalog, or just use a multimeter. You can also just tune it like you tune carbs, at least to get it running.

So, $675 + $200 (optional) + wiring. Wiring can, of course, vary from $50 to $500 depending on where you go with it. In any case, it would be possible to go with an off-the-shelf PEFI unit for under $800 all told.

Megasquirt is also nowhere near $1K. Even a pre-built unit is $250 for the ECU, and that includes a MAP sensor. TPS is also not required. Stock CHT and IAT sensors can be reused. If you can wire things together yourself, and are reasonably frugal, you're looking at $300-350 even if you buy the unit completely assembled. If you go with a TPS and use the best of everything, you may end up spending $600, including new injectors (which are only $35 a throw if you choose the right injectors, they don't have to be D-Jet units).

btw, both the Perfect Power and the MS units will do programmable ignition (with a distributor), too.

I was going to log off and have Linda log on but last time I did that it took Sean Lee 2 weeks to get my log on working again.
Joe


Thanks guys for ALL the info. But I going to change to Carbs. I just want to drive my damn car. My 914 has been un-drivable for quit some time now and I'm sick and tried of taking it to the mechanics. Hopefully this will be the last thing I do until having to rebuilt engine and trany. I uncover my teener and just sit in it wanting to drive some where. My neighbors laugh at me cause they thought I was taking out. I get frustrated and start thinking of what's next? I refuse to support my mechanics anylonger. Besides the parts, time and money involved, I didn't have that to give so freely.

Linda Horne

QUOTE (bowlsby @ Jun 4 2005, 07:36 AM)

MS must still be around a Grand. And that for an 'experimental' system with no warranty, and no one to service it if it breaks.

I agree with you on many of these points, but regarding the MS having nobody around to service it and no warranty? Sounds just like D-jet. I think the Cap'n is the only mechanic left in the USA who knows how to service them correctly.

IMHO the ONLY dissadvantage to PEFI is the HUGE time investment. And it can be HUGE. From a cost-of-parts standpoint it looks to be about even between D-jet and the alternatives. However, going PEFI can be a tough row to hoe if you don't have the equipment and background to tune and troubleshoot. I could say the same about D-jet though. At least we have choices. It's kind of like choosing which club to get beat on the head with.

-Ben M.

I am going to learn all about CIS, and use it on one engine, and have D-jet on another, until something more sane comes along.

I am not sure about MS, I don't really like homestyle electronics... not that they can't be very good. Too many Heathkits.




M

one huge plus for the D-Jet....no darn PC needed for tuning it

another weekend gone to he//.......just a few days ago my laptop PC was communicating with my Link ECU, now today nothing, I've swapped out serial cables, borrowed my wifes new laptop to install the software, still no communication

I've got the wideband 02 reader all hooked up and it does me no good since I cannot access the software to make changes.......they do make a pendant similar to the SDS system which I declined to purchase...they way I look at it, one really shouldn't have to modfiy the parameters once set.......

*******************

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jun 4 2005, 03:51 PM)

one huge plus for the D-Jet....no darn PC needed for tuning it another weekend gone to he//.......just a few days ago my laptop PC was communicating with my Link ECU, now today nothing, I've swapped out serial cables, borrowed my wifes new laptop to install the software, still no communication I've got the wideband 02 reader all hooked up and it does me no good since I cannot access the software to make changes.......they do make a pendant similar to the SDS system which I declined to purchase...they way I look at it, one really shouldn't have to modfiy the parameters once set....... *******************

Electronics just don't like you, Mike. Maybe you do need to stick to carbs.

QUOTE (Joe Sharp @ Jun 4 2005, 01:13 PM)

I was going to log off and have Linda log on but last time I did that it took Sean Lee 2 weeks to get my log on working again. Joe Thanks guys for ALL the info. But I going to change to Carbs. I just want to drive my damn car. My 914 has been un-drivable for quit some time now and I'm sick and tried of taking it to the mechanics. Hopefully this will be the last thing I do until having to rebuilt engine and trany. I uncover my teener and just sit in it wanting to drive some where. My neighbors laugh at me cause they thought I was taking out. I get frustrated and start thinking of what's next? I refuse to support my mechanics anylonger. Besides the parts, time and money involved, I didn't have that to give so freely. Linda Horne

Who has been "working" on it???

Its pretty damn easy to work on djet......

megasquirt...

so you drive the route66 run and something goes wrong.. o crap. it's your ecm... what now? grab one from a local parts shop? nope... cant get one there... a budy on the run might have another... ? nope..

It's like have a custom carb that nobody knows how to tune or has any replacement parts for.

I'm thinking of converting to a gm style fuel injection. I have a friend that has written all of his own software etc.. for tuning on the fly so I think it could work well. Simple too..

Until then, I pray every night that my djet keeps working right.

QUOTE (snflupigus @ Jun 4 2005, 06:03 PM)

megasquirt... so you drive the route66 run and something goes wrong.. o crap. it's your ecm... what now? grab one from a local parts shop? nope... cant get one there... a budy on the run might have another... ? nope.. It's like have a custom carb that nobody knows how to tune or has any replacement parts for. I'm thinking of converting to a gm style fuel injection. I have a friend that has written all of his own software etc.. for tuning on the fly so I think it could work well. Simple too.. Until then, I pray every night that my djet keeps working right.

If you're on Route 66 in just about ANY car and your fuel injection ECU packs up, you're at the very least going to wait a few days while parts are ordered. No one stocks these things, mostly because THEY DON'T BREAK. In any electronic system, it's primarily connections or related mechanical parts that go bad, not the actual electronics themselves. You are just as vulnerable (indeed, even more so) to being stranded and partless with D-Jet as you are with any aftermarket system.

If you want to drive across the desert and be certain you won't be stranded, run carbs, points, have a few spares, and some tools.

the 80-83 air cooled vanagons were L-jet, just like the 1.8L and 912E

QUOTE (redshift @ Jun 4 2005, 12:48 PM)

I am going to learn all about CIS, and use it on one engine M

I have a 57 Oval Rag that is now on the front burner. It's going to be a Rat Rod style car for my 15 yr old. (16 in July) I think I'm going to try a CIS off a VW Rabbit or something on the Type IV that were using. If it doesn't work I'll try to switch back to the D-Jet.

QUOTE (bowlsby @ Jun 4 2005, 11:36 AM)

3.  So then I recently looked at SDS which is perhaps the least costly PEFI on the market from a reputable manufacturer.  Warranty, tech help, replacement parts, relatively easy to install and program.  Other systems from Haltech, Link, etc, are similar, or more sophisticated, cost more and maybe more than needed for a stock engine.  SDS is just the baseline example I have used for comparison.  The SDS EM-4D is a fuel only, programmable EFI, basically a suitable aftermarket replacement to D-Jet, but you have to program it to your engines specific needs.  I like the non-laptop programming add-on box because 10 years from now when you or the next owner needs to reprogram it, you won’t have to worry about that old laptop working.  The harnesses it comes with are basic but functional, so add casing and rubber boots at each component for a durable install.  This system could be installed to be very stealthy for those wanting a very original looking engine bay. $850  EM-4D system $150  TPS and MAP sensors $150  Shrink tube casing/rubber boots for harness, misc items $350  LM-1 or equivalent cost for dyno time So SDS installed and tuned is at least $1500. out of pocket including your full hourly rate of $0 per hour for R&D, adapter bracket fabrication and labor.  You will probably need a few days time at least to make it work.

The "$150 Shrink tube casing/rubber boots for harness, misc items" is not really needed unless you’re anal....(sorry jeff )...the injector connectors on the SDS aren't that bad, the wires are epoxied into the connector...no issues so far in 2 years.

The wideband I would have said no...But since I now have one I say hell yes!!! You need one!

I'm pretty sure I could install a fuel only SDS in a day...But... I know what I'm doing and it might take another day to make it look stealthy.

No R&D needed...The TPS adaptor I can make in a 1/2 hour...you need to weld a small bung into the intake...most of your time will be spent scratching your head on how to run the DB-9 cable thru the firewall.
(Little hint..cut it and splice it back together...1/2 inch hole with a bug brake line grommet.)

As far as running an SDS the first time...how fast can you set the timing?
3rd crank and it will fire up, set the timing and drive...In less than an hour you'll have the programming 90% done.

And oh ya...It will fit into a gutted stock D-jet box...


D-jet is fine but will it run a 2.6L T4

QUOTE

I'm thinking of converting to a gm style fuel injection. I have a friend that has written all of his own software etc.. for tuning on the fly so I think it could work well. Simple too..

sure you could grab another GM ecu if yours craps out, but that also means you have to have a means to always re-program it when in the boonies

oh yea, if you look at the MS, a lot of the circuits are based on GM and other proven circuits...

i think the bugs have been worked out with the MS...most of the problems are owner induced, the same screw-ups can happen with a system costing thousands of dollars

as for the cost of the LM-1 or any other tuning device, the co-op idea like my(ours) LM-1 is a great idea to help lower the cost.

QUOTE

Electronics just don't like you, Mike. Maybe you do need to stick to carbs

and I don't know why, i've never done anything wrong to them little electrons

I was going to say that had I bought the SDS instead I might be driving my car right now, but I never have that good of luck with this stuff, hahaha

Hey Guys,

This is good thread. It's something every 914 will face sooner or later. I am in the process of fixing my D-Jet & electrical problems now before it gets more expensive. You know buying up spares & such.

My thinking is why re-invent the wheel, why not out source the proper materials for the MPS diaphram's & other needed materials. This is a perfect cottage industry for a home repair business. I'll bet the Mercedes, BMW & others have similiar needs. Can someone do the metallurgical requirements on the diaphrams & post it. I may have a source overseas (china) to make them. We already have two members on the 914-club supplying parts & services. If we pool our resources we can fix what we already have.

My 2-cents worth.

Tom

If you want something more reliable and less costly than D-Jet, go with the L-jet setup off a 1.8. Before having major head work and putting down $450ish for carbs, I was going to run my 2056 with my 1.8's L-Jet. Just switch to 912E injectors and adjust the richness on the airbox... Dyno tune if you don't have a flexible gas analyzer, and you're set! Simple as shit.

QUOTE (Thomas J Bliznik @ Jun 5 2005, 12:08 PM)

My thinking is why re-invent the wheel, why not out source the proper materials for the MPS diaphram's & other needed materials.  This is a perfect cottage industry for a home repair business.  I'll bet the Mercedes, BMW & others have similiar needs.  Can someone do the metallurgical requirements on the diaphrams & post it.

Ha!

If I had a dime from every guy who's said they are going to reproduce the diaphram I'd be a rich man. Seen many that talk the talk, but I've yet to see someone walk the walk.

The originial was an exotic copper (or brass) that is highly poisonious in production, forget the name of it.

Ok Mark, you got me interested.

If I remember correctely it's Berylum (spelling??) or somelike similiar. They used to make this stuff for the Govt. at a place still in business 25 miles SE of Toledo, Ohio. I believe the name of the company was Brush Wellman. I'll check it out.

I'll get a sample from someone & run it through my metallurgical lab source. I would bet it's available through someone doing business in china or India. They don't have environmental laws like we do. Their workers are not protected & that's where it will come from. Now, I need a sample diaphram to have it evaluated. I'll check it out till I am satisified with an answer. Anyone having information would we welcome.

Tom

QUOTE

ust a few days ago my laptop PC was communicating with my Link ECU, now today nothing

Mike make sure the baud rate for the serial port is correct, set it at its highest and the pc and link will talk

Rather than replace the diaphram, it WOULD be possible to produce an electronic version using a modern solid-state MAP sensor. Cost would be roughly that of an MS ECU (as it would contain about 80% of the same parts), or about $200 once produced on a limited scale. It would also be possible to tune it, so you could compensate for a hotter cam or a bigger engine. Totally plug-and-play. The downside is that you'd still need the trigger points, and the crappy OEM cold-start system. Replacing those would be possible, but now you'd be so close to a full aftermarket ECU that you may as well just go that way and dump the stock ECU, too, and gain ignition control in the bargain.

If I thought there was really a market for it, I'd design the thing and look into producing it. However, I think there'd be a lot better market it selling a complete plug and play kit using a full MS ECU pre-programmed to work with a stock 1.7 or 2.0, with a wiring harness and good instructions. I'd venture such a kit could be sold for under $750 a throw with no ignition control. Just swap out the D-Jet ECU and MPS for the new ECU and drive.

QUOTE (Thomas J Bliznik @ Jun 5 2005, 02:17 PM)

Ok Mark, you got me interested. If I remember correctely it's Berylum (spelling??) or somelike similiar.

Yep, don't know about the speelin' but that dar sounds aboot rite.

I've heard just about everyone from Joe Shmoe, to guru's like Ray Greenwood say they were going to reproduce a diaphram, but nothing ever comes of it.
I wish you luck.

The only rebuild is big bucks and really a 1.7 MPS...

Hey Mark,

I didn't say I would reproduce a diaphragm. I said I would find a source for the material. Do a google search on the company Brush Wellman. They have lots of space age materials.

Now I need to reverse engineer the material spec. & find out who has similiar materials. If is possible, I will find out.

Tom

Didn't think/say you were.

Just stating the facts as I see it...

QUOTE

Now I need to reverse engineer the material spec. & find out who has similiar materials.

This is part of the puzzle...I think different materials have been tried with little success.

The material for the diaphragms is most likely beryllium copper (BeCu). Not really exotic, but is environmentally hazardous to process. Companies like Laird buy it by the ton to make EMI gaskets out of. The material is not really the problem - it is the cost of the tooling to have the correct shape for the diaphragm stamped out. Then the low volume once you've got the tooling paid for. It really all comes down to money. Figure $2K for tooling, and then around $50 each to buy them in low quantities like 25/batch. Then you've still got to have the center boss machined and pressed into the diaphragm - a little more in tooling to create the tools that will press and flare the boss into place. So figure a cost of $100 each for a complete diaphragm. Then you've got the labor to rebuld the MPS, some extra profit to pay off tooling. It all adds up. Hard to justify when you can still get used MPS's for $100 or less (last ones I bought were $15 each at a swap meet).

Demick

I have a complete great running D-Jet set-up including fuel pump, that I will trade for Webers w/ manifolds and linkage anytime.

KT

I've run MS for about 8000 miles now. I've only had 1 problem I haven't created myself by tinkering. That problem was a solder joint that broke in the cable to the ECU. I pushed it off the side of the road and retuned it to run without the MAP sensor (similar to the MPS). Ran rich as a pig but got me home 15 minutes late.

The problems I've created are legion including diluting the oil on a new rebuild. The system works but it's only as good as the mechanic.

MS kits could certainly be done but I just can't see people not fooling with the tuning. As soon as you screw with it you'll need a wideband O2 or a dyno.

Dave

I'm not trying to argue one side or the other, but one thing I forgot to mention...
If you run PEFI with a laptop for tuning I've found the feedback info to be a HUGE benefit. If you are troubleshooting an EFI problem you can look at the screen and instantly know whether the majority of the EFI components are working or not. I can look at my tuning screen and instantly see the following:

• TPS - is it working and calibrated correctly? Just blip the throttle to confirm & watch feedback.
  
• RPM match on laptop and tach = crank possition sensor functioning correctly
  
• Intake temp sensor working or not
  
• MAP sensor - working or not
  
• Head Temp Sensor - working or not
  

Add a fuel pressure guage and you've got very rapid problem isolation. There's nothing worse than staring at the outside of an engine wondering why it won't work right. Having the laptop tell you the status of all those sensors is a lot of help. It doesn't always tell you what the problem is, but at the very least it can tell you several things that it isn't.

-Ben M.

Well Ben, I can do most of those tests in 10 minutes of time with the Janbo and pulling a vacuum on the MPS. Pretty basic stuff.

I am definately going EFI other than Djet soon...just for a change and challege.

QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jun 6 2005, 09:04 AM)

Well Ben, I can do most of those tests in 10 minutes of time with the Janbo and pulling a vacuum on the MPS. Pretty basic stuff. I am definately going EFI other than Djet soon...just for a change and challege.

I bought my laptop for $25, but I have no idea where to find a Janbo locally.
-Ben M.

QUOTE (TimT @ Jun 5 2005, 11:43 AM)

QUOTE ust a few days ago my laptop PC was communicating with my Link ECU, now today nothing Mike make sure the baud rate for the serial port is correct, set it at its highest and the pc and link will talk

so I bring my Link ECU to work today, throw it on the workbench to give it 12vdc only (no other inputs/outputs connected) , plug in my laptop and the damn thing works

I'll be attempting to get communication again tonight, not sure what I did different, I called Link and they pretty much think I am crazy

I can see an aftermarket EMS in my 1.7's future-- I'll put it in when a bolt in turbo becomes available (again). I truly would like to see this happen.

QUOTE (airsix @ Jun 6 2005, 11:51 AM)

QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jun 6 2005, 09:04 AM) Well Ben, I can do most of those tests in 10 minutes of time with the Janbo and pulling a vacuum on the MPS.  Pretty basic stuff. I am definately going EFI other than Djet soon...just for a change and challege. I bought my laptop for $25, but I have no idea where to find a Janbo locally. -Ben M.

In Seattle there is one........

What is a JANBO. What exactly does it do? Where did it come from? Are they available to buy? How much do they cost?

QUOTE (gregrobbins @ Jun 6 2005, 10:55 PM)

What is a JANBO. What exactly does it do? Where did it come from? Are they available to buy? How much do they cost?

tester info, amazing what google can do for you , oh yea, I recommend the rest of this particular site as well for you D-jet owners

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jun 6 2005, 03:05 PM)

QUOTE (TimT @ Jun 5 2005, 11:43 AM) QUOTE ust a few days ago my laptop PC was communicating with my Link ECU, now today nothing Mike make sure the baud rate for the serial port is correct, set it at its highest and the pc and link will talk so I bring my Link ECU to work today, throw it on the workbench to give it 12vdc only (no other inputs/outputs connected) , plug in my laptop and the damn thing works I'll be attempting to get communication again tonight, not sure what I did different, I called Link and they pretty much think I am crazy

This is why I went with SDS...I needed something simple...when it comes to 'puters and stuff I'm a dumbass.

QUOTE

This is why I went with SDS...I needed something simple...when it comes to 'puters and stuff I'm a dumbass.

I got it to finally communicate last night, what a PITA, maybe it's due to my old Compac laptop, but I doubt it...basicly what I have to do is have the Link turned on, then with the laptop rebooted without running a Link session I can now "talk" to the Link, if I for some reason loose communicaton, I have to reboot the laptop and try again.

Sorry Jeff, I think this is OT but I was distracted by a shiney object.

I think I should get one of these and get after it with a sawall!

You could do two cars! This is a Crower EFI for a Chevy