A few questions:

1) Harmonic Balancer bolt spacer: Is this supposed to fit "in" the hole (there's a countersink)? If I used the bolt that came as a set, it would be too long. Plus the head was long. Those two stacked stick out the front of the car ~ .635". I know there is little space between the firewall and the front of the engine. It should be fine if it is positioned above the shelf where there is more space in the center but I think it is below.

2) How close should the HB be to the timing cover. Mine is a little over a 1/16". The gear drive cover may be longer than standard...

3) What's wrong with this picture? Alternator fan is too big for the bracket opening. I bought this alt. about 20 years ago but I don't know of any design changes since. I've got to call Renegade in the morning...

4) I may go ahead and buy a new one. What size AMP alternator do you suggest? They come in 60 to 160. I suspect 160 is not needed unless I install a high power stereo.

5) How do you deal with this kink? Wind it tight so it has a curved memory, clamp or wrap the hose at the kink, add an elbow, not worried about it as it will fill out with pressure?

QUOTE (Neo914 @ Jun 5 2005, 03:09 PM)

A few questions: 1) Harmonic Balancer bolt spacer: Is this supposed to fit "in" the hole (there's a countersink)? If I used the bolt that came as a set, it would be too long. Plus the head was long. Those two stacked stick out the front of the car ~ .635". I know there is little space between the firewall and the front of the engine. It should be fine if it is positioned above the shelf where there is more space in the center but I think it is below.

Answer #1

It is not countersunk, it fits on top.

QUOTE (Neo914 @ Jun 5 2005, 03:15 PM)

2) How close should the HB be to the timing cover. Mine is a little over a 1/16". The gear drive cover may be longer than standard...

Answer #2,

Did you put the HB spacer behind it? They make a spacer to go in behind the HB wich is supposd to make it right. Mine is about the same as yours and works fine.

QUOTE (Neo914 @ Jun 5 2005, 03:20 PM)

3) What's wrong with this picture? Alternator fan is too big for the bracket opening. I bought this alt. about 20 years ago but I don't know of any design changes since. I've got to call Renegade in the morning... 4) I may go ahead and buy a new one. What size AMP alternator do you suggest? They come in 60 to 160. I suspect 160 is not needed unless I install a high power stereo.

Answer #3

Pick up a new one wire alternator from your local flaps, it should be a direct bolt on and should also fit with no problem. They make different size fans and I think the new ones are much smaller.

QUOTE (Neo914 @ Jun 5 2005, 03:24 PM)

5) How do you deal with this kink? Wind it tight so it has a curved memory, clamp or wrap the hose at the kink, add an elbow, not worry about it as it will fill out with pressure?

As for the kink in the hose? It will only add pressure where you dont want it. Make the hose longer if ned be to make the loop a little larger and less prone to kink. This is my theory anyway, there are no kinks in my lines.

Mucho gracias Senor Scott...

BTW, no spacer since the gear drive sprocket adds a .25" to the crank. Milodon has you space everything out when using their drive.

Well, that is about the same amount of gap I have between my cover and HB. It should be fine. I think I even have the same cover on mine. Its for a gear drive right? Billet Aluminum?

QUOTE (skline @ Jun 5 2005, 02:53 PM)

Well, that is about the same amount of gap I have between my cover and HB. It should be fine. I think I even have the same cover on mine. Its for a gear drive right? Billet Aluminum?

Milodon, aluminum cover:

Scott is right ... you don't want a kink in your hose or an area in a hose that is susceptable to kinking. An area on the verge of kinking can close off completely once the system gets hot and softens the hose. This can happen after you've driven the car for 15 -20 minutes then shut the car off. The hose gets hot and soft, then as the system cools down a slight vacuum occurs as it draws coolant out of the overflow tank. But the hose is still soft and anywhere there is a tendancy to kink it will now start to close off. When you start the car back up the flow is reduced and the engine may run hotter than usual until the pressure is enough to bulge the hose back out.

Either re-route or lengthen the hose to eliminate the kink, use a spiral wire to reinforce the area or a hose with built-in reinforcement, or maybe a section of bent rigid tubing in the area. I have a place next to my radiator that is marginal that I want to take care of while the engine is out.

Thanks guys, the kink is eliminated when the hose is shorter. Easier to cut than lengthen...

My balancer is also very close to the timing cover (Erson gear drive). In fact I had to machine a small grove in the back of the balancer to clear a allen head screw holding on a plate for the idler gear. Has to be that close for the belts to be straight.
BTW I put on a brand new balancer because the old one was wobbling and the new one wobbles too.
How are yours? Run straight and smooth??

QUOTE (tyler @ Jun 14 2005, 11:33 AM)

My balancer is also very close to the timing cover (Erson gear drive). In fact I had to machine a small grove in the back of the balancer to clear a allen head screw holding on a plate for the idler gear. Has to be that close for the belts to be straight. BTW I put on a brand new balancer because the old one was wobbling and the new one wobbles too. How are yours? Run straight and smooth??

Mine runs completely straight, no wobble. Maybe your crank nose is bent.

wobble is definitely not good. You can slip a belt or wear it faster. Chris Julian said his method is to use a laser pointer pen to align the pulleys off the crank. Wish I had one, straight edge and eye for me...

QUOTE (Neo914 @ Jun 14 2005, 11:29 AM)

wobble is definitely not good. You can slip a belt or wear it faster. Chris Julian said his method is to use a laser pointer pen to align the pulleys off the crank. Wish I had one, straight edge and eye for me...

If you have a piece of straight round bar about 1/2" diameter, you can place it in the pulley groove, and it will create a straight reference to the desired pulley location for an accessory drive. It will "square-up" when pushed againt the groove. It also helps determine clearance of the belt routing.

Andy

How is everyone fine tuning their pulleys? Shims or washers under the mounts? Under the w/p pulley bolts?