Noticed a couple drips under the engine, and it didn't smell like trans fluid. So I of course suspected a rear main seal leak. Now this engine only has just over 2K miles on it from a total rebuild. and I just had it out to repair a broken rocker arm stud over the winter. I didn't remove the flywheel at that time so the seal hasn't been disturbed since being put together.

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But when I pulled it apart I found the area below the seal was dry. closer inspection revealed that the oil galley plugs I installed had leaked. Definite wet on the left plug in this picture and a little oil on the far right one. I used some liquid Teflon pipe thread sealant when I put them in. I was thinking of using some of the HondaBond case sealant this time. I used that on the case halves. and it seem to be holding up okay.

Click to view attachment

The seal I put in originally was a Victor Reinz seal and I ordered another before I even pulled the engine. Now I wonder if I should just leave that seal in? it only has 2K miles. OR pull it out replace it and maybe check the crank endplay again while I have it apart.

I am leaning towards ... Leaving well enough alone, and just resealing the oil gallery plugs. and leaving the rear seal in there.

What is your opinion ??

Better is the evil of good enough

My thoughts also


In "striving to better, oft we mar what's well"

I use Teflon paste. Never had one leak. I won't use the vr seals either. The Sabo black is the only one I use

the VR seals are substandard put one in my six then read all the warnings,bought a Kaco and noticed a better fit going in,VR gaskets appear ok but won't go there with an RMS seal again.
Often its a price thing in this case you pay for what you get .

The plugs should be conical and self seal with a bit of sealant.
If the plugs are not conical, sealing is going to be an issue.
I used the same sealant that I used for the case - bone dry.

I wouldn't touch the main seal. If it's there and it seals, let it be.

I don't like that the pipe plugs are installed to such a shallow depth.

Were those threaded with NPT or are then non tapered? That will cause issues.

Id leave the seal alone.

Glad it wasn't the input shaft seal as we just messed around in that neighborhood.

I also don't like using aluminum plugs in an aluminum case. My preference is stainless steel.

Stainless is not as available, and I do like the anodized colors. Curious why not alu and alu? What about the brass plugs I can find at the hardware store?

Tapered thread, 3/8 NPT plugs re sealed using the Hondabond.



Ordered a Sabo RMS from GoWesty. Be here in a couple days.

Also polished up the sealing surface on the flywheel with 1500 then 2500 and buffing wheel and compound. Pretty smooth now.

Shit... since I'm in here I may as well change it....

i am bumping this to ask if you had success with this and if now 5 years later is it still dry?

Phil

I second the use of the black Sabo brand of rear main seal.

I've been looking all over and cant find one, not on GoWesty or anywere.

According to GoWesty the Elring model is the one to use.

i finally found the article and their most recent update in 2021 now says it’s Eherling, the SABO not as good anymore due to age and degradation of the mold used to make the seal, so it’s no longer a perfect fit like used to

hope this link helps others .

https://gowesty.com/blogs/article-library/f...main-seal-story



Phil

-EDIT:
sorry just saw that you had the same link imbedded in your post too.

Now it seems that we all need to start hoarding parts made before 2020!

And keep them in a vacuum inside a pyramid.