Since I have 60PSI on the #2 cyl I was thinking I would do a top end rebuild, considering I cannot afford to do an entire rebuild the right way (aka Jake ) I am thinking "echocanyons" and myself can tackle it in my garage.

Question #1, Should I just send my heads to a VW shop to rebuild, or to Rimco?

#2 Buy a 96mm P&C kit w/new rings or hone and re-ring the ones on the car?

#3 Drive the car with low compression on the #2 till sept/oct and then hope I have the money for an entire rebuild?

I know doing a top end rebuild could be a recipe for disaster on the bottom end and I know there is a chance I could be doing a full rebuild down the road when the bottom end finally lets go. But I can probably get away with speding about 1.5k right now.


Who has some experience to offer regarding this topic.

Luke Draper

i'm sure you adjusted the valves before you did the compression check.

right? Andy

Yes, #2 exhaust was real tight maybe burned a valve. Should have adjusted them when I bought the car but the PO said that valves and oil were done 1k miles ago. Car started to get chatty so I had them adjusted and found it. Car quited up but now it's chatty again.

Luke D

QUOTE (LukeD @ Jun 6 2005, 08:58 PM)

Question #1, Should I just send my heads to a VW shop to rebuild, or to Rimco? #2 Buy a 96mm P&C kit w/new rings or hone and re-ring the ones on the car? #3 Drive the car with low compression on the #2 till sept/oct and then hope I have the money for an entire rebuild?

you don't need a fancy calibrated leakdown tester to determine if you have a ring issue or a valve issue (after the valves are properly adjusted, of course). for not a lot, you can get an insert that takes the place of a spark plug that you can use a shop compressor to pressurise each cylinder at TDC. (LOCK THE FLYWHEEL!)

listen for where the pressure comes out to tell you where your compression leak is.

what kind of shop do you think RIMCO is ?

plan on new P&C; chances are you'll need them anyway and if you plan, you can shop for sales/deals. the "Friday night gotta have 'em before the weekend" price always seems to be higher, especially when you factor in the overnight air freight :-) and that way, you can have RIMCO resize your rods and replace the rod bearings; your mains are probably fine, but a top end on marginal rod bearings is death...

in the event your low compression is a bad valve or valve seat, trying to drive it too long can get expensive if something breaks...

this is a good time for a clutch too...
and for repacking your CV's...

just MHO's

well, if it's the valve that's causing the problems then there's really no need to buy new P/Cs ...

take the heads off and post some pics here!

just rebuilding the heads will be a lot cheaper that doing the whole crap-o-la ...
Andy

Can I pull the heads without pulling the engine?

As far as Rimco, I just meant my local VW shop instead of shipping heads to them.

QUOTE (LukeD @ Jun 6 2005, 06:37 PM)

Can I pull the heads without pulling the engine?

i don't think so. but even if, it'll be easier to just drop the engine and then work on it ...

Andy

I really have only one thing against Rimco .......... They're a "production" shop. I use and highly recommend Engine Machine Service in West LA. They have a VERY small staff, everyone there gets personally involved with every job, and they do OUTSTANDING work. I've used them almost exclusively for both shop and personal work for right on 20 years, and never a complaint. A bonus is their prices are relatively reasonable, and their turnaround time is too. HOWEVER!!!!!!!!!, if you're looking for a "patch job", don't even call them......... 310 641 7019. The Cap'n

Well I wouldn't say that I am looking for a patch job. I would like my heads completely re-done, not just the troubled valve.

It's also not that I can't afford a full Jake Raby rebuild either because I can financially but not "Spouse Emmotionally" if you know what I mean

I don't drive my car hard, nothing past 4k RPM usually, I jsut want to get another year or so out of it before I drop another 5-7k into it. I will do all the labor myself with possible help, I have pulled an engine and I know my way around the external workings of the 914 engine (i think LOL).

I pull the motor soon and yank the heads.

LukeD

When valves get noisy shortly after an adjust it could mean a seat is coming loose. That can destroy your engine in a blink. Or it could mean a stretched and impending broken valve with the same result.

Nothing past 4K.....are you retired or in a wheelchair????

Beat that puppy...

EMS is a good shop, do the heads right and do a thorough inspection of the pistons and cylinders......however....a nice cam and some more inches...umm, cubic centimeters wouldn't hurt....

Actually I am 27. When I was 16 and had my first of 8 914's and I dropped a valve seat and have been just a little precautious ever since.

I just know I am not driving a race car so why drive it like one in ticket city Fresno LOL.

I have an old 1.8 block missing only the heads. I am thinking now may be a good time to learn to build an engine. Any difference between a 1.8 and 2.0 block besides the heads?

Luke D

QUOTE (LukeD @ Jun 6 2005, 06:23 PM)

I don't drive my car hard, nothing past 4k RPM usually

This may be a partial cause of your problems. Running these engines at (relatively) low RPMs will slow impeller speed >> airflow enough to heat up cylinder #3 really quick, especially with stock F.I. and a 2.0. I have seen mine hit 400' cruising in 5th on a 60' night as a reult. I typically cruise around 4K in 4th and never get above 350' (stock 2.0 w/ D-Jet). Just something to think about.

spin that puppy up. you won't hurt anything that's not ready to let go already. and what others said is totally correct -- you want to be cruising at 3500 rpm to keep that fan working.

definitely do a leak-down, proceed from there.

QUOTE (LukeD @ Jun 6 2005, 10:27 PM)

I have an old 1.8 block missing only the heads. I am thinking now may be a good time to learn to build an engine. Any difference between a 1.8 and 2.0 block besides the heads? Luke D

Heads, crank and rods (and rod bearings), pistons and cylinders, and top tin. The Cap'n

Cap'n

Can I use the 1.8 block and replace the crank, rods, P&C's and put some nice 2 liter heads on it? Any case difference?

What makes a case un-usable? The one I have was sitting outside in a trailer for a few years without any heads on it so I know I have to replace everything anyway, which is what I wanted to do. Just wondering if they case could still be good.

Or am I better off buying a rebuildable 2.0 long block?

Luke D

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jun 6 2005, 05:56 PM)

I really have only one thing against Rimco .......... They're a "production" shop...

So? They do good work, at least with T1 and T3 engines.