If anyone has one laying about, I need the length of the rod that runs from the bell-crank up to the carb linkage. From what I understand, it is a 911 part but I am told that there were multiple lengths for the 911 part over the years.

Thanks,
Ken

That is true. We have a box of them at the shop and there are at least 3 different sizes.

Measured it once. Don’t have it with me but I think it is in a thread on here somewhere. Pretty sure the length is 22”

Sorry don't know I modified mine to length and got told it wouldn't work...well that's not true no issues so far.
Click to view attachment
The real secret is to move all "lost motion" from the linkages starting from the carbs and all the way back to the bellcrank on the g/box,over time the ball cups wear out and create a lot of slop.
IMO the kits for sale are horribly overpriced ,you can DIY 911 parts to the same effect,I did it for like $60.

I'd ask Rich Johnson........

I'm very willing but my car is so packed away right now.... the rods that I have loose
are various lengths
I can say with certainty that a 6 rod has the curved part to clear the CV
I'll try to provide an answer soon.

I remember having a similar problem but I think I solved it by changing the angle of how the carb linkage pulled on the bell crank. Initially my linkage looked like this.

Click to view attachment

I did not have to cut the accelerator rod. I believe I adjusted the linkage link on the top of the motor that went to the carbs which changed the angle of the bell crank linkage on the top of the motor. Making that adjustment reduced the free play of the accelerator rod on the lower transmission bell crank as shown in the picture.

Click to view attachment

Jeff B

Hi Ken,

The rod length is 22 " long. I purchased a new rod from the dealer.
I believe it was around $116.00
Part # 90142302603.

Thanks!

Great now something I have to order now as well

IIRC the one I got with my donor engine was too short, I cut it up made a new rod with a fair sized U bend to clear my 108mm CV and welded it up.

I made my whole linkage cutting and welding 911 linkage bits. I ditched the pivot plastic bushings and made new ones out of brass. I also tossed the the linkage drop arms, made new rods and used 1/4" ball joint rod ends.
Works well.

One time I accidentally ordered the 914-6 Sportomatic pull rod. The curved part of the pull rod is tilted 45* outboard. I just cut it out and welded it in flat. IIRC the Sporto piece was 1/3 of the cost of the regular one.