Just bought this new aluminum trailer to haul my toys around. The setup for this trailer is 4 D ring points set 16' apart in the length and 4'8' in the width. How to strap down a 914 for safe hauling. Thanks all. Click to view attachment

Sorry all posted in wrong Forum and don't know how to move it.

you will need 4 axle straps in addition to the 4 ratchet straps (10,000 lbs. rated)
2 up front- one each wrapped around/thru each A arm
2 in back- one each wrapped around each trailing arm

I would also (although it would be hard with your trailer setup (closed deck)) run a chain around the engine mount bar or one of the rear trailing arms and chaining it to the trailer frame. I have hauled 914's 911's and 356's 1000's of miles and never lost one with this set up.

I use something like these to go around the a arms and axles or shocks.

https://www.discountramps.com/axle-strap/p/...xhg7f5djqlusist

You should check out AW-DIRECT. They are a company that supplies the tow industry with all kinds of equipment. I've dealt with them many times over the years and have never been let down.

They also work well through the wheels.

Great idea, just bought a set. THANKS!

Me too...Thanks

I just bought a set...can't beat the price

I do NOT like strapping axles or suspension pieces. That's perfectly fine when all is well - the car won't see a lot of fore/aft force in regular trailering - but if something bad happens it's gonna probably break the car*.

I tie my racer 914 in the enclosed using two 5' tie back straps through the holes in the front wheels:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productse...sp?Product=2357

Those are clipped to e-track brackets in the floor. I then push the car back slightly to get rid of the slack on those front tie-backs.

I then run two axle straps through the rear wheels:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productde...s.asp?RecID=622

...and secure those to the rear e-track via "Heavy-Duty Ratchet Tie Down with 2 Snap Hooks"

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productse...sp?Product=2351

I use 6-footers because any increase in length allows more stretch.


Edit: *We had a trailer flip on its side some years ago, guy fell asleep (everyone was OK). Got to the scene and opened the back doors...and the two cars were still strapped in place, up on the "side wall". Riggers got the trailer right side up, we opened the doors and drove the cars out. No damage, raced that weekend. We were using welded tie-down points on the unibody chassis.

I like using the axle straps on the rear wheels because it sure beats reaching under the car when the exhaust is hot.

One minor addition to the above: If you have really wide wheels & tires, make sure you have axle straps that are long enough... ask me how I know this

Get yourself some of these. You won't regret it.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENE...VUaAiUOEALw_wcB

They make a set for the front too. Ratchet straps to those and go. Easy-peasy.

I use those through the wheels as well. Easy to do and very secure.

It’s always nice to have a couple extra straps in your box so if you have a spur of the moment purchase, you can tie it down.

We have 2 enclosed trailers, a 24 and a 44'. Over many years of towing cars, I have done a lot of different methods, including through the wheel. A few years ago, I added e track from front to back, and now use a 3 point over the tire method. No marring or scuffing of a wheel, and no yanking a suspension component. Also because it is pulling down on the wheel one strap could even fall off, and the car wont "walk" in the trailer.

I prefer this over the basket style, as we have some low cars, where the strap needs to stay close to the tires. Note the rolling idler that is the 3rd point.

https://www.truckntow.com/auto-hauler-suppl...-tie-downs.html

If you have tie downs already, they sell just the idler too:

https://www.truckntow.com/cargo-control/e-t...g-assembly.html

Moved to Garage