I put it in the resources section here. $25 for weld in, or $30 for a clamp in kit (for you guys without a welder).

Master Cylinder Brace

I had posted this in your resource thread but figured it would be better over here.
So I deleted it and moved it.

Just thinking out loud here. But if you wanted to avoid the doing the clamping why not just extend it to the mounting where the bolts are.
You would think the clamps would give as much as the floor would.

Just my thoughts.

I was just replying to your post on the resources section, I have an explanation there.

I welded one on my driver, and this one is on my project car which I just put the pedal cluster and MC back in, and I didn't use washers on the nuts, with the washers there is not enough threads left over to get much behind there but maybe a little sheet metal tab. Which I feel the strength gained would not be worth jacking the price up for more time and materials.

I think people have the perception that the MC moves in-out, but really it goes up and down. The whole floorboard/firewall and pedal cluster flex, so the largest area of movement is at the snout (forward most point) of the master cylinder, which this mount supports, the point of strength here is at the crossmember and the tongue supporting the MC, the clamps from the MC to tongue just hold it snug.

Someone did make a brace sort of how you describe, it bolted to the steering rack and extended up to one of the MC mounting bolts.

Looks good! Do you have a solution for us folks that have an aluminum 911 cross member installed? It's not round like the stock cross member, and I can't weld to aluminium.

Best,

Randy

QUOTE (RoadGlue @ Jun 7 2005, 01:12 AM)

Looks good! Do you have a solution for us folks that have an aluminum 911 cross member installed? It's not round like the stock cross member, and I can't weld to aluminium. Best, Randy

Travis Neff,
I'm with RoadGlue, Do you have a solution for us?

Thanks

Do the hose clamps give you enough strength to hold it all together?

I'm thinking maybe use muffler clamp U-bolts which would be able to be tightened up real good.

Paul

Not yet for the Aluminum, but that is next on the list.

URY, the hose clamps for the crossmember are high vibration resistant units I got from McMaster, they are rated to be torqued down to 80ft lbs each, they are not going anywhere.

A U clamp is a pretty good idea on the MC though$

I like it. Damn good idea.

Paul

This was my solution for 74. 1 side brace bolts directly to the MC at the firewall. The other side just outta shot on the left bends up at 90degrees & bolts in with 2 bolts & some large washers.

only downside is you have to cut the pan to clean the beams cross section.

Trev,

That is another good approach to the flexing problem! I tried my hardest not to interfere with the spalsh pan on mine.

Thanks to all that had ordered/picked up some of these today. I'd sure like to hear how it turns out for you - good, bad or indifferent. Have another 16 or so, then it's off on another batch.

Awesome dood!


M

Please contact Andy about selling these in the 914Club store.

OkeyDokey

I drafted up some instuctons and pics on the resource page, link below. Very straightforward and shouldn't take much time or effort to install.

Hi Travis,
Tim and I both have our braces installed. No more master cylinder movement. Thanks a bunch.

Andy

Excellent!